TT32VGT

Im about to cut a rib out of the bushings on the rear lowering bolts.. Do I need to cut out the rib closest to the arm(on the bottom) or closest to the leafspring(top)

those doesnt look like an easy job.. I cant find a cable saw at homedepot or lowes

Thanks!!

LFZ

Cut the bottom of the rib closest to the arm first...see how you like it. If you want more, cut it again. Use a serrated steak knife.

Chevyfanaddict

Ya your wife will love you long time for that

TT32VGT

I've got axle loops, it's next to impossible to cut the ribs out while the bolts in..

Could someone tell me the steps to remove the lowering bolt in the rear? Is it a pain?

TT32VGT

Nvm

https://www.corvetteforum.com/c6-tech-performance/3148440-lowering-bolt-install-c6-how-to-with-pics.html?styleid=140

nitrojunky

cutting bushing ribs out of the bolts makes them prone to metal fatigue failure. i know because the idiot prior owner of my first corvette cut them out i discovered this when i had a rear bolt fail while driving. pulled off the front springs and found both the bolts in the front springs had also failed. got to buy an entire set of new springs.

the bushings are there for a reason. buy some lowering bolts.

duhveed

^Lowering bolts wear away faster as well

TT32VGT

I doubt cutting 1 rib out will do any harm. i bet the dummy u bought ur car from cut out almost all the rubber..?

LFZ

In my experience...both lowering bolts and cut bushings are not for cars daily driven , tracked, and/or driven hard.... Trust me.

TT32VGT

LFZ- Did you cut just 1 rib out? I havent heard anything negative about cutting 1 rib out rears only..?
My car def isnt a DD but I do like going to the dragstrip

HeadTurner

I have had 1 rib cut for several years in the back. . No issues. .
I did use hard bar bolts up front.

LFZ

I have never cut 1 rib on anyones car because IMO it just was never enough...have always cut both...but everyone has different tastes as to what you like.

08velocity

Lee , I've sort of been thinking about cut 1 rib off the back ( ours is DD ) but not really driven hard ( well... the on/off ramp race we all do ) but do you think it would cause any of the above " problems" for ours ??

mjoacim

Anybody wanna try my skateboard wheel idea? It works great on my car and the other 2 I've done.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1587251256

LFZ

Scott...I am no professional, but have lowered a ton of these cars this way...I'd say 1 rib would be fine since you have that extra cushion there.

The cars I've lowered by cutting, I have always cut both ribs and they all have come back to me with metal to metal clanking due to wearing out whatever rubber was left...but that was always with both ribs cut and the cars were driven very hard.

nitrojunky

i'll have to check the pictures, but i believe both ribs were removed in my 1997.

edit: checked. about 3/16" of rubber remained. so both?

as far as the root cause of the fail in my car, it's pretty straightforward; in the rear, the bushings act as the pivots for both heads of the bolts as the suspension moves. remove them and the bolt then has to flex back and forth at its top and bottom while the shaft remains approximately normal to the ground. the geometry makes it do this bending over a small length of its shaft near the head, and you end up with effectively what people do with a paperclip. mine showed classic signs of metal fatigue. dunno how many miles it took mine to break; i had it ~5k or so miles when the driver's side rear bolt let go.

please explain; i've never heard of this nor can i see a mechanism for it.

LFZ

Thats a good example there...sorry that happened to you, but its the risk you take when lowering like this.

As far as the aftermarket bolts, they come with a thin rubber pad over the flat metal plate. Over time and driving, that rubber just shreds, because...well, its cheap rubber. I had lowering bolts for 2000 miles and one day decided to check them and the pads on both fronts were shredded in half, and my rears were completely destroyed.

Lingenfelter makes a nice lowering bolt with a flat Delrin pad...I haven't heard much feedback from them by anyone using them, but that would be the way to go IMO.

Pfadt actually made a beautiful set for the C7 that included a Delrin pad with a pivot stud so it could flex with the A-arm movement. That would definitely be the way to go.

nitrojunky

^^^ ah, good to know re: the lowering bolts. i figured they were meant to be used the stock bushings. IMO, making the shaft of the bolt take the flex is always going to be a bad idea. the pfadt version sounds like the best option*, but i imagine they're hard to come by now.

*i have a Z06 for its performance, therefore you won't see me lowering mine unless it's part of a coilover kit and even then rake considerations will > aesthetics.

TT32VGT

the back pass side gap is 3 fingers while the back drivers side gap is barely 2 pisses me off lol

08velocity

Thanks buddy !