AZDANZ06

My 2008 Z has 25,000 on the clock and figured I would go ahead and change the plugs, I typically use Anti Seize on most of my toys, but thought I would check if there is a remote issue by using it on the LS7?

sky1

Yes

edmundu

I have swapped a few sets of plugs on my Z, and have not used anti-sieze. I do recommend die-electric grease on the porcelain. It helps to keep the boots from sticking to the plugs

But, I did torque to 11ft/lbs on 1st install, and 8 ft/lbs on subsequent installs. Like when checking the plugs, and putting them back in.

Bad_AX

I have always used a light application of anti seize on spark plug threads for aluminum heads and I've never had an issue. Anti seize on plugs is not without controversy. NGK advises not using anti seize on plated plugs due the risk of over torquing.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

On the other hand, Champion sells this stuff for use on airplane engines.
http://www.championaerospace.com/pro...ead-lubricant/

If you are nervous about using anti seize then stay with a plated plug. If you are pretty certain of yourself and your ability to use a torque tool, then apply a bit of anti seize sparingly and reduce the torque a bit.

Mregor

I would always use anti seize on threads with 2 different metals as they tend to corrode and seize (duh!) if you don't.

Unreal

No. NGK specifically says no anti-sieze. They have a coating for anti-galling, and antisieze has been known to cause misfires in LS applications.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Z06 Steve

good info!

Unreal

One of the first things to do if you are having a misfire it to make sure there isn't excessive antisieze on the plugs. The plugs need to ground through the head, and antisieze prevents that which can cause misfires, codes, etc. The factory and NGK plugs are coated and don't need any.

Michael_D

Anti-seize is an insulator??? Hu, I did not know that. Must be all that nickel additive... LOL

Yes, I'm being facetious. In fact, whenever we run into bolt up issues on crude and gas lines where there needs to be extremely low levels of continuity (but there is), and dielectric gaskets are used at the flange connections, anti-seize is a no-no on the flange bolts, because it is a conductor. Every time the piping segment bust a continuity test, first thing I ask the techs, is to pull the bolts and clean the threads, because someone probably used ant-seize.

Just don't get the crap all over the place. A little dab is all that's needed.

NGK is afraid of idiots and gorillas who don't understand torque values, and rightly so. Anti-seize goes on just about everything with threads that I touch, including my spark plugs. But I'm using Denso, so maybe that's why I'm so lucky.

Unreal

My bad. I remember reading a bunch about it causing misfires. Went back and reread it. If any gets on the ceramic it causes carbon tracking or something and car will misfire. If you use anti-sieze against the recommendation of all the plug/oem manufacturers, make sure it is a very small amount and don't get any on the 1st 2-3 threads. Personally I'll go with what NKG, AC Delco, Champion, GM, etc say and skip it. Not only is it not needed, I can't see any positive effects from it. They say it causes less friction when installing which leads to overtorquing the plugs and it isn't there for anti-galling since they have the coating for that.

AZDANZ06

Thanks for all the feedback.

Hib Halverson

At the factory, the plugs are installed dry. Unless they are over-tightened or the plug threads or threads in the plug holes are messed up, you can put them in dry but, if you do....NEVER try to take them out with the engine hot and only use about 17-Nm

With some traditional anti-seize compounds contain a metallic component such as copper or moly. They conduct electricity really well and if you get some on the body, the porcelain or in the center electrode you risk misfire. When that happens, and the stuff is on the center insulator, the anti-seize compound will "bake on" and the plug is scrap.

I use anti-seize but I use a DuPont Krytox fluorinated grease product and only a tiny bit spread on just the threads with my fingers before installation.

Vegas1500

No need...........dry is the best... have installed hundreds of plugs, all dry and never had an issue even in our crappy climate.