TT32VGT

my goal has been to run 9s.. I know a blower would be a quick trick but I hate the problems a blower brings..
it would be nice to run 9s n/a with a stick..
Ive gone 10.55..136.5mph in the heat w/ 1.65 60' and 17" bias ply slicks..604rwhp. car made 612/565 stock compresison. I know with better weather and a great launch I can go 10.2-10.3..

Current performance mods:
lg x4 cam
wcc st.2 heads STOCK compression
ported fast102/102nw tb
halltech
iw 10% underdrive balancer
mantic9000
kooks 1 7/8"
offroad 3" pipe
npp mufflers

thinking about doing the following to get closer to my goal:
bump in compression
2" headers
2step
15" rear wheel setup w/ lg spindle kit/c5brakes
race gas tune

meth kit?

how much would a bump in compression and 2" headers yield me? trying to figure out if itll be enough to go 9s, or if I need more cubic inches..? I would do the c6 diff with 3.90 gears but the gears are on backorder till god knows when

Chance42

2 step, more seat time and pray the driveline holds up. Get it down to a 1.3 60' on the two step and in good weather that might be enough for a 9.9x. Bump in the compression and meth would further help.

10gt5

Comp. Is what seems to make the power in these heads

The black bitch.

I like nitrous, its fairly simple to hook up ,no plumbing issues like turbos ,doesn't affect the gas mileage like super chargers or add lot of weight. For drag racing its great ,I'm not sure I can do the texas mile on it but for street racing it's hard to beat.

gmkillr

Ditching the OEM heavy as hell catback would be a step towards the 9's

427ZM

2" headers or too large for an NA setup. I am currently running them on my ERL 434, and although I don't have a comparison with them on my new cam setup, on my old cam they cost me both HP and torque. The 3.90 gear would help, but the easiest way to get into the 9's would be Nitrous, as the BB mentioned above. I just installed a plate kit, and took my first test hit with it yesterday. It's a game changer.

Also, compression will help throttle response, and add a very small amount HP.

Turbo2L

You have another .25 left in your 60' time which would probably get you there. I don't think the 15" setup is going to give you what you want.

Play with tire pressure and heat in the tires and get your 60' to atleast a 1.5 and then drop the stock axle back as suggested above. I think you'll be there on the current setup. If not try out a 100 shot to really get down the blacktop.

BOTTLE FEDvette

WEIGHT...gotta remove weight. Things you can do is slicks and skinnies (this is big because you are getting rid of rotating mass), remove the stock mufflers and take out the passenger seat.

100#'s less is 1 ten.

1.65 60' aint no joke in a IRS car.

KLLRVET

My car pics up almost 2 mph removing the mufflers

2 step will blow up the mufflers. You need to drive the car, and your times will come around.

You don't need 15 inch wheel/slick combo. I cut 1.40 on 17inch 315 drag radials

TT32VGT

Thanks for the posts guys!! really appreciate it. ill keep at it, with my current setup and not change anything..
was really thinking of adding a 100 or 125 shot like you guys were saying..

best 60' so far was 1.595 but I know it needs to be lower.

Im running 18x6 and 17x11 weld rts so I guess theres a good bit of weight savings right there..

Taking off the mufflers sounds like a good idea, I usually remove the swaybar.. I havent personally removed the mufflers before, is it a fairly easy job? Ive got a lift/impact/etc. Car doesnt need to be retuned Im sure..

thanks again!

40YRW8

Weight reduction will help a little for sure. The easiest place to remove weight is, unfortunately, in the rear. A Shorai battery will be worth around 30 pounds and is probably the best bang for the buck weight reduction out there. If you remove the entire catback, have some 3" by about 16" collector extensions made up. They will give you back some mid-range torque with very little weight. If you remove the swaybars, be sure to remove both and not just the front bar. That would make the car pretty loose if you were to get a little out of shape. Surprisingly, the bars, brackets, bolts and endlinks only weigh about 21 pounds but every little bit helps. Also, look at removing the windshield washer tank. If it is full, it weighs around 14 pounds. If you temporarily remove the windshield wiper motor and mechanism, it is worth around 10 pounds and pops in and out in about 10 minutes. Just pop off the nylon ball joint connectors. For the best ET gain, traction is your best friend.
Gary

BayAreaSS

What you need doesn't cost a thing. Work on that driver mod.

JMB

Stick with 1-7/8" headers as mentioned earlier by 427ZM

• add 3-1/2" merge collectors to your headers
• 3-1/2" exhaust through an X-pipe (even if you have to go oval for clearance)
• 1 point bump in compression w/0.040" head gasket
• Electric Water pump
• Re-tune based on the above changes

My estimate for the above changes would be adding a minimum of 40-50 RWHP (good for 4-5 MPH at the track!) which will get you trapping 140+MPH and getting into the 9's! Good luck on your journey!

meinersk

Id swear I cut .05 off with lighter front rotors...16 lb vs 26 stock z06 saving 20 lbs..rears can take another 11 ibs off...Meth got me 17rwhp with timing,,When I go now to track atco nj I show up with 2 gal 93 and put 2 gal 104 and I have 75 percent meth and ice in tank..Also ive learned to shift higher like say 7,000 rpms. I am like u no good at launching lol..Lighter clutch? 4.10 gears...line lock?

meinersk

Could you tell more about merge and head idea? what cost?

lane_change

I recently switched from LG 1 7/8" headers on my 447ci to a set of ARH 2" headers....I'll be curious to see the results. My car is a nitrous car as well though, so while it may only make 6xx on motor, it will be making 8xx on spray, do you think the 2" will hurt my performance? Just curious as to your thoughts on that.

BRING IT

Is your car done yet?

JMB

A merge collector builds velocity through the header tubes much like a venturi on a carburetor. This added velocity aids in pulling out more exhaust quicker. For a header having a 1-7/8" primary tube size with ~600 RWHP on tap the ideal collector size is at least 3-1/2" diameter.....NOT the standard 3" collector that every header manufacturer typically uses for the C6 LS7. The merge collector requires a "choke" in the collector to narrow it down to approximately 2-3/4" before if flares back up to 3-1/2" for the collector end. I have yet to see a "properly" designed exhaust system for the C6 LS7. The first guy to follow my recommendation will be shocked at the results over the typical 3" collector header with 3" dia exhaust! Now you know why my 92 octane NA LS7 with 680 RWHP runs a 4" dual exhaust with triple stepped 1-7/8" headers & merge collectors!

My custom exhaust system that I hand built (including the headers) cost me in the neighborhood of $2500 so I imagine that a guy with a few skills could graft a good quality set of 3-1/2" merge collectors to an existing set of headers and fabricate the cat-less back 3-1/2" exhaust with an X-pipe for somewhere around $1000 depending on the quality of the merge collectors.

As for the heads.....typically on the LS7 head you mill 0.006" to reduce combustion chamber volume by 1 cc and you want to reduce 6cc's to raise compression by 1 point when you use an 0.040" gasket (in lieu of the OEM 0.051") so you'd mill the heads 6 x 0.006" = 0.036" to obtain 64cc's from the OEM 70cc's to go up 1 full point of compression. Cost varies for this but typically can be done in the $500 range.

And if you want to see what a "true high performance" street/strip triple stepped header 4" exhaust system" (w/3-1/2" tailpipes) looks like here is my LS7 set-up mentioned above on my 680RWHP '88 Monte SS:

lane_change

It's up at D3 getting the ProEFI wired in and some other stuff wrapped up. If all goes well, it should be on the dyno shortly.

VetteVinnie

Welcome back.