toroz06

OK so as the title states I have a problem with the valve guide.

I took the car to NLP to have I new clutch install and since I was there I ask to have the valve check, turn out that it look pretty bad.

So what to do next, if I have the shop do the work is going to be around 2k to 2.2k just to fix the issue no performance upgrade.

Now if I can manage to do it my self maybe I can put some of that money to forge the motor, I was thinking on pulling the complete motor out and have the head fix and buy new connecting rod and pistons. The plan if eventually go to with a supercharger so any modification will have to be with that goal.

also I was told that in the stock motor to be reliable if I add a supercharger I should not go over 620 610 HP because of the pistons and that is the reason for me wanting to pull out the motor and rebuild it.

my gold is to be on the 700 to 800. is this crazy to think that I can get there and also how much do you guys think I will spend? will I have problems with the tranny and axles? I do drag racing. the car currently have LG long tube header 1 7/8, x pipe, no cat, borla, fast 102 intake with throttle body, K&N intake, mcleod clutch rxt.

Michael_D

You do realize this topic has been beating beyond recognition?? That's probably why no one has responded, they are tired of the cyclic debates.

My opinion, and keep in mind that's only what it is, an opinion. But I am pretty handy with engine building, so take that for what it's worth.

I would call American Heritage. I like their approach to LS7 cylinder head R&R. They also do good work, from what I can gather via internet conversations and pictures. And, they have been very up front with their thoughts on this matter, which is a novelty and has earned a few respect points from me. That's all I'm saying about that.

There is no need to swap the rods for your intended power levels. I really don't know why these Ti rods continue to be under appreciated. I would be very hesitant to run a heavier rod in this engine running the same stroke, same rpm. The rod angle is crap and a heavier rod will only create more thrust on the cylinder bore.

If you are dead set on boost, you better keep it under about 6 pounds unless you want to re-sleeve it, or your tuner is a Saint. The cylinder sleeves are my primary concern. They will crack if you get into detonation. The pistons should probably be replaced above 700 crank hp level, but they are pretty damn stout and I'd run them up to around 700 n/a without any reservation. When you add boost or spray is when their continued use gets iffy.

I would also look to having the rods reconditioned with better small end bushing and some ARP bolts. I would send them to Katech for this. Actually, I'd send them the rotating assembly, with ring set and have them balance it while they work the rods. They used to make and supply pistons for this engine. Not sure if they offer them anymore. Spendy, but very good pistons. My go-to piston for just about every build is JE. I have not used them for an LS7 though, so no direct experience there.

Not sure what other details you may want or need, so I'll stop now.

toroz06

Thanks Michael_D

I did research for it before I decided to post but most of them are just about the heads and I wanted to go a little more. Like the topics you touch, pistons, rod, sleeve the block and realistic budget, so I know you guys are tire of this topic but please help me out or point me in the right direction. Thanks

Michael_D

Let's just forgo any further talk about heads.....you know your options.

What specifically do you need to know about the short block, that I did not touch on?

Are you an engine builder and have all the tools/instruments? Do you have any machinery? Not real sure how for to go here. ....

Bill Dearborn

I just wonder why the forged Ti Rods aren't good enough for you and what you think would be better?

Bill

American Heritage

Michael D gave you some solid advice.
Have you considered going with an aftermarket block like the RHS? Very nice blocks, The standard deck block will fit under the stock hood without any issues but the tall deck will require some "trimming" to get it to fit.
Whats your budget for this build and as Michael D asked above, are you the one who will be doing the labor?
If interested we are a Dealer/Vendor for RHS, we even have a few sitting here in the shop. send us a PM if you want more info on the RHS stuff.

I would worry about the piston before i would worry about the ti rods. If you want to be in the 700+hp range with the stock pistons and rods you better have a very very good tuner. Detonation at that level will destroy them quick. Dont get me wrong the ti rods are great but like everything they have there limitations.

toroz06

Thanks to all of you that reply to mi issue.

I took a step back to look at everything and I has going over my head wanting to do all that work at ones.

so I going to take it step by step. supercharger is out of the question. I called Carlos at vet air he took the time to shiny some light so we decided to go with stage two wcch heads and the black panther cam stage two. this should keep the car with street manners with some mild sound and up in the 560hp 570hp

I think that should keep me happy for a little while.

toroz06

Cam got here today

ctsv510

Should be fun!

How many miles on your Z? Did they give you specific measurements or just tell you the valve guides were out of spec?

toroz06

9000 Miles . they just told me they are pretty bad shape, I didn't ask for any measurements. not sure on what to do with them.

American Heritage

1) post the measurements in the "out of spec guide registry" thread
2) send your heads to us for reworking

ctsv510

toroz06

That was my plan to send the heads to American Heritage but I bought a package with carlos he is taking care of all, I know you guys do awesome work and great customer service

Unreal

All depends on budget. If you are planning boost later I would go aftermarket heads for the thicker deck. Even if you don't go 6 bolt later the thicker deck on the aftermarket heads keeps them planted. PRC, Mast, RHS, All Pro, etc.

As for forging it now, that isn't cheap. If you have the budget, go for it. I ran heads/cam/blower setup at 700+rwhp just fine and I know of many others. If you want 750+ then pistons would be a good addition.

Good tune and stock block is fine. I would have no issues at ~700rwhp on stock shortblock and ~1000rwhp on one with pistons. RPM cranks out 1000rwhp stock ls7 block cars all the time.

toroz06

can some please tell me how to do the valve test. and how to get the measurements?

toroz06

wiggle test????

American Heritage

if you want to wait till tonight, we are putting up a quick wiggle test DIY thread... including pics, bolt sizes, tools needed and instructions. It will be up late tonight. A step by step guide so to speak, it should be exactly what your looking for

toroz06

Thanks no problem I will wait

American Heritage

Here you are Sir!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...-test-diy.html

toroz06