0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

By the time they are done with it, and you get their caps....all you are paying for is that 7.0L stamp on the block

lemans

http://www.clevelandpickapart.com/

Lynch Z06

I have a LS7 Block. A ERL Rep has already seen it here in Houston. We are making a deal for them to get it currently.

My new build will be a RHS 427 block built by LME. I should have it back soon.

It seems that the LS7's have a week number 7 cylinder, or just week cylinder walls all together. When I looked at the cost of the ERL rebuilt block, I decided to spen t a little more and get once that will not have the issue a sleeved block can have.

lane_change

Why ERL over RHS? RHS seems to be the better option imo. I have an RHS in my current Z06, but if I was in your position I'd go LSX.

croatbob

erl have supposedly had a few sleezes shift lately. that made my mind up to go rhs. id go lsx aswell in the above situation

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

#7 is typically the cylinder that runs lean. By default that is typically the cylinder that fails. Either cracks a piston and then cracks the walls, or it detonates and cracks a sleeve. The walls in the LS7 have been one of the weak points of the LS7 block.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Ask Jim Riley on here about his experiences with the RHS blocks....'Pumba' here on the boards.

It wasn't just isolated to his car either.

Pumba

Before you purchase an RHS block have an agreement with RHS or whomever you purchase it from that they will take the block back, without a restocking fee, if your engine builder finds that it is not to their published specifications.

I purchased a new RHS block from Flatlander Racing for my 451 build (4.1850" x 4.100"). My engine builder found that the deck height of the first RHS block was not the 9.250" that RHS advertised, nor the 9.240" that is GM's deck height spec, but 9.228". I had spec'd my pistons to be 0.020" out of the hole with a cold engine using a 9.240" deck height. Seeing I already had my Mahle pistons, my Carrillo rods, and my Winberg crank, a good block was the only way to save my build.

It took RHS three blocks to get me one whose deck height was above 9.240". That block exercise caused an 8 week delay in my engine build, and a ton of heartburn.
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starchedup

Interesting.. just seems like no matter where you go and how highly someone is recommended, that you can't seem to count on anyone for a quality product anymore.

So, let me see if I have this right... tell me if I'm wrong..

Are you saying the LS7 block is just a WEAK BLOCK from the get go and to stay away from it. Go with the ERL replacement block that is likely the stronger LS3 block with new dry sleeves?

Also, on the RHS block, do you have to send them a core or is that $4,800 the price of the block without having to send them anything?

Yeah that's EXACTLY what happened to me. #7 piston blew, cracked the sleeve. Replaced piston and had massive oil and coolant consumption issues (not leaks). Noticed the sleeve was not cracked and I guess either it happened after the piston was replaced OR it was cracked and no one noticed it when the piston was replaced.

It was at that point that they pulled the motor and I decided to have it stroked to at 445 per the builder's recommendation, they replaced ONLY sleeve #7.

I don't want an IRON block and throw off my perfect 50/50 weight distribution and kill my track performance.

parsonsj

I hear you on the iron block. Aluminum blocks weigh less and are just cooler. The Z06 does have good weight balance (about 49.7 / 50.3 with a 180 lb driver). That's stock, of course. Mods, different driver weight, and lowering the car will all affect weight distribution.

An LSX block weighs about 125 lbs more than an LS7 block. It will change the weight distribution (slightly) and affect your track performance a bit. It won't kill your track performance... you might not even notice the difference.

Just trying to provide some perspective.

Unreal

Headers and 2 piece rotors would make up the weight difference.
RHS is stand alone block but like others said, would need more machine work and other custom parts to make it work.

ERL makes their blocks out of cores, can be l2/3/7/9/A or any gen 4 aluminum block.

starchedup

Update on CID. The motor has been destroyed! I OVER PAID for junk! Cost me 10K and it was never even spec'ed properly. ANY builder should know that stock sleeves can not accommodate a 4.155 bore! I didn't know and that's what trust bought me.

Not only is the #7 sleeve still cracked but the block is now cracked beyond repair and my BRAND NEW PISTONS ARE DESTROYED. I only drove 1500 low rpm "break-in miles" on that new motor! I've decided to have ERL build be a new short block. The new build will be a aluminum (not iron block) Naturally aspirated 454ci. 4.185 bore x 4.125 stroke

ERL note:

These sleeves are made of ductile iron that is 3 times stronger than cast iron. The ERL sleeves are significantly longer and thicker than stock sleeves, this allows for up to a 4.125” stroke and a 4.185” bore.

The black bitch.

I broke a sleeve and had ERL make it a superdeck block I'm hoping to make a 1000 hp (at the crank ) this week ,with a big shot of nitrous, no problems so far ,Ive put 3000 miles on it . I did a lot of research and I thought ERL was the way to go.

starchedup

That's refreshing to know. I doubt I spray it but at least I know it'll take a 300 shot if I wanted....

TT32VGT

Ouch, sorry to hear that.

I believe a ls7 core charge from ERL is $1650.. If I ever replace my shortblock Ill be going with a ERL superdeck.

The black bitch.

I used the TI rods and now I'm a little worried I'm not sure what kinda hp there capable of holding up to.the thought of owning a car with titanium was cool when I bought my Z

RGT

Buy an aluminum truck block at a salvage yard for like $400. Have Richard at WCCH sleeve it. You can go up to 454" with this set up.

starchedup

Yeah I was told the truck's aluminum 5.3 block is the strongest made. That's the core I'm getting from ERL. Its $850. $400 is good price but after all the hassle of finding a good one and transportation back to my place then shipping it to ERL (that's $200 easy), its just easier and less hassle to just pay their core charge.

RGT

The last time I talked to Richard, he had a few salvaged truck blocks in his shop.

JoeyV

I had a valve drop 2 days ago. Destroyed my #1 Cylinder. Maybe salvageable after seeing the videos and write up on buildandtune.com. Steve out there is fixing my chamber, no cracks but pretty jacked.

I ordered a brand new 5.3 that is going to be bored out to 4.125 and put darton sleeves. 2700 bucks out the door.