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[Z06] talk about stupid luck!!

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Old 04-14-2014, 07:44 PM
  #21  
jerseydrew
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had someone help today and with 2 people i can get the door open but have to be careful with the cables that are flopping around on the sides. so when these guys come on wednesday i will have the guy help me get the car out first then i will let him work.
Old 04-14-2014, 08:51 PM
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Over 27 years experience in the garage door business.
Been running my own enterprise since 1998.

http://www.foothilldoors.com/
http://www.garagedooropeners.us/
http://www.bearcatco.com/

Most garage doors are installed with 10,000 to 12,000 cycles springs.

Torsion springs with a higher cycle rating i.e. 20,000 to 100,000 cycles are available. 20,000 is a cost effective upgrade which will greatly extend your spring life.

I installed 100,000 cycle springs on my own garage door because I never want to worry about a broken torsion spring again.





Old 04-14-2014, 09:07 PM
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'06 Quicksilver Z06
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Originally Posted by bearcatt
Over 27 years experience in the garage door business.
Been running my own enterprise since 1998.

http://www.foothilldoors.com/
http://www.garagedooropeners.us/
http://www.bearcatco.com/

Most garage doors are installed with 10,000 to 12,000 cycles springs.

Torsion springs with a higher cycle rating i.e. 20,000 to 100,000 cycles are available. 20,000 is a cost effective upgrade which will greatly extend your spring life.

I installed 100,000 cycle springs on my own garage door because I never want to worry about a broken torsion spring again.





Good to hear from a professional on this matter.

What are your thoughts on a DIY install for these 20K cycles springs?
Old 04-15-2014, 12:19 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
Good to hear from a professional on this matter.

What are your thoughts on a DIY install for these 20K cycles springs?
It's not rocket science but it can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Using 3/8" extensions is a bad idea unless they are hardened for an impact gun. The longer the better for more leverage. Better to use actual winding bars.

20K cycles are a great idea. They shouldn't cost that much more than a set of standard cycle springs.

Also go for the older oil tempered springs as opposed to the newer silver galvanized torsion springs.
Old 04-15-2014, 12:37 AM
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383vett
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A couple of years ago the center bearing (similar to by bearcats) on one of my double garage doors froze up and actually cut the horizontal bar in half (like a tubing cutter). It was a challenge getting the pulleys off, the end bearings, the double springs, the center bearing and bar off, then reinstalling everything with a new bar. It's not really that hard if you can visualize how the door operates. You just have to use common sense and caution and not rush the job. I'm not bragging, but I was able to do this with no help.

Last edited by 383vett; 04-15-2014 at 12:39 AM.
Old 04-15-2014, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
A couple of years ago the center bearing (similar to by bearcats) on one of my double garage doors froze up and actually cut the horizontal bar in half (like a tubing cutter). It was a challenge getting the pulleys off, the end bearings, the double springs, the center bearing and bar off, then reinstalling everything with a new bar. It's not really that hard if you can visualize how the door operates. You just have to use common sense and caution and not rush the job. I'm not bragging, but I was able to do this with no help.
Old 04-15-2014, 02:06 AM
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Lazyflatfoot
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
Yeah, that broken garage door spring can be a bitch.

I've had it happen before.

Call someone out to fix it, because garage door springs can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.


I had a spring let go. I thought something exploded. So, I agree, let someone with training and experience handle it.
Old 04-15-2014, 02:57 AM
  #28  
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if thats happened to me I swear I'll destroy the door for sure NEVER EVER missed a weekend my friend *cheers*
Old 04-15-2014, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
A couple of years ago the center bearing (similar to by bearcats) on one of my double garage doors froze up and actually cut the horizontal bar in half (like a tubing cutter). It was a challenge getting the pulleys off, the end bearings, the double springs, the center bearing and bar off, then reinstalling everything with a new bar. It's not really that hard if you can visualize how the door operates. You just have to use common sense and caution and not rush the job. I'm not bragging, but I was able to do this with no help.
Wow I've never seen that happen. I've seen the torsion shaft cut in half when the installer didn't install a center bearing plate. I'm thinking your garage door might be heavy. Usually you get wear at the end bearing plates next to the drums.
Old 04-15-2014, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bearcatt
Wow I've never seen that happen. I've seen the torsion shaft cut in half when the installer didn't install a center bearing plate. I'm thinking your garage door might be heavy. Usually you get wear at the end bearing plates next to the drums.
I can't remember exactly what happened. It did have a center bearing and plate. I think maybe somehow the bearing slipped out of the plate and the plate cut the shaft right in the middle.
Old 04-15-2014, 05:05 PM
  #31  
jerseydrew
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change of plans. i ordered the spring and doing it myself now. i can't get over how unprofessional garage door people are in my area! and this was a BBB A+ company. told him to go screw.
Old 04-15-2014, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jerseydrew
change of plans. i ordered the spring and doing it myself now. i can't get over how unprofessional garage door people are in my area! and this was a BBB A+ company. told him to go screw.
Bearcat recommended using winding bars (whatever those are) for turning the spring ends. I'm sure he is right. I used a pair of long 3/8" extensions which bent pretty good near the end of the spring winding process. Makes sure you use a good brand, Snap-on, Craftsman, etc. Definitely don't use cheap offshore extensions. As you have found out by now, the springs are color coded. I was able to match the size and color at a local large hardware store. Good luck.

Last edited by 383vett; 04-15-2014 at 09:54 PM.
Old 04-16-2014, 01:45 AM
  #33  
jerseydrew
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Bearcat recommended using winding bars (whatever those are) for turning the spring ends. I'm sure he is right. I used a pair of long 3/8" extensions which bent pretty good near the end of the spring winding process. Makes sure you use a good brand, Snap-on, Craftsman, etc. Definitely don't use cheap offshore extensions. As you have found out by now, the springs are color coded. I was able to match the size and color at a local large hardware store. Good luck.
i was able to order the proper spring from an online source that also sold the winding bars for $9 pair. just steel bars that have the proper size pin on the end for the holes in the cones. found out a buddy of mine did it and had no real issues. i'll get him to give me a hand with it.
Old 04-16-2014, 06:49 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jerseydrew
i was able to order the proper spring from an online source that also sold the winding bars for $9 pair. just steel bars that have the proper size pin on the end for the holes in the cones. found out a buddy of mine did it and had no real issues. i'll get him to give me a hand with it.
The winding bars have the correct diameter to fit in the winding holes, which are larger than a 3/8" extension . They also have a rough exterior finish which helps to keep them from slipping out of the holes. Using them you'll be fine. Just take your time and ensure that the winding bars are bottomed out in the hole EVERY time.

If I recall the springs are to be wound 7 revolutions as a baseline. They ultimately should be wound to give the door a neutral balance.

Good luck!
Old 04-16-2014, 11:10 AM
  #35  
jerseydrew
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Originally Posted by Undy
The winding bars have the correct diameter to fit in the winding holes, which are larger than a 3/8" extension . They also have a rough exterior finish which helps to keep them from slipping out of the holes. Using them you'll be fine. Just take your time and ensure that the winding bars are bottomed out in the hole EVERY time.

If I recall the springs are to be wound 7 revolutions as a baseline. They ultimately should be wound to give the door a neutral balance.

Good luck!
that is exactly what they say in the vid and told me on the phone. start at 7 full turns (28, 1/4 turns)and then check balance of door at half way point. if it falls 1/4 turn tighter and if it raises 1/4 turn looser. up to 1/2 turn +/- is just fine from the 7 turn starting point. after that if there is a correction needed it may require different spring. but considering i ordered the exact spring that was on the door i should be fine.
Old 04-16-2014, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jerseydrew
that is exactly what they say in the vid and told me on the phone. start at 7 full turns (28, 1/4 turns)and then check balance of door at half way point. if it falls 1/4 turn tighter and if it raises 1/4 turn looser. up to 1/2 turn +/- is just fine from the 7 turn starting point. after that if there is a correction needed it may require different spring. but considering i ordered the exact spring that was on the door i should be fine.
Sounds like a good plan!
Old 04-19-2014, 11:31 AM
  #37  
jerseydrew
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that was one of the easiest things i have ever replaced! i can't believe i was worried about it. i just finished up and have to run out and get some 3 in one oil for the spring. all i have to do is lube it up and should be good to go for 10k cycles. lol



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