[Z06] Clutch problem: any recommendations for an uprated clutch master cylinder?
04-04-2014, 11:22 AM
#1
Clutch problem: any recommendations for an uprated clutch master cylinder?
Hi, i posted the below back in 2009, and have just experienced the same.
at the time, Ranger was very helpful, especially pointing out the need to ensure the clutch fluid isn't contaminated. as mentioned above, the fluid was crystal clear.
it was the rubber boot/seal on the clutch actuator rod from the master cylinder that had literally "inverted" somehow. the mechanic simply popped it back in place and things worked fine.
However, about 2 mos after that, the same thing happened again. i assumed the clutch master had already been damaged, and replaced it with a brand new OE unit.
the problem never came back until this past week, over 3 years since the last occurrence.
note that at no time before this did the clutch pedal ever have any signs of mushiness or stickyness. it was all perfect, until BAM! straight to the floor, and stayed there.
each time, it happened when the car was crawling along in extremely slow bumper to bumper traffic, necessitating repeated use of the clutch, in 92-94 degree heat. perhaps something about heat soak affecting the rubber seal over time?
So is there an upgraded or more heavy duty master cylinder assembly out there that i could try, which hopefully will cure this problem?
thanks in advance!
hi guys,
06 Z, <5k miles, exhaust, K&N, AR LT headers
car has never been drag raced, launched, no burn-outs, etc. though it gets wrung out a lot, high speed, high RPM runs, etc.
after a particularly spirited run recently, parked the car and had breakfast. on the way home, very slow in-traffic 1st & 2nd-gear city speeds, the pedal suddenly shot straight to the floor and stayed there.
no mushiness
no sporadic sticking
no strange engagement feel
everything was A-OK, then suddenly pedal just stuck to floormat, like it was pulled by a strong magnet.
never came back after that, just flat on floor. you could pull it up with your hand or foot of course, but slight pressure on it, and it got sucked right back down (presumably by the spring assist).
did lots of research on here, expected dirty clutch fluid, maybe bad flywheel etc...
had it checked, and all it was, was a retaining clip or something, that somehow came loose (i think it was at the clutch actuator rod?) and allowed air into the system. it was a one day fix, and the car has been absolutely perfect in the few weeks since then. again, lots of hard driving.
the clutch fluid by the way, was crystal clear. had it flushed anyway.
anyone experienced this before?
TIA...
the original thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...blems-fix.html06 Z, <5k miles, exhaust, K&N, AR LT headers
car has never been drag raced, launched, no burn-outs, etc. though it gets wrung out a lot, high speed, high RPM runs, etc.
after a particularly spirited run recently, parked the car and had breakfast. on the way home, very slow in-traffic 1st & 2nd-gear city speeds, the pedal suddenly shot straight to the floor and stayed there.
no mushiness
no sporadic sticking
no strange engagement feel
everything was A-OK, then suddenly pedal just stuck to floormat, like it was pulled by a strong magnet.
never came back after that, just flat on floor. you could pull it up with your hand or foot of course, but slight pressure on it, and it got sucked right back down (presumably by the spring assist).
did lots of research on here, expected dirty clutch fluid, maybe bad flywheel etc...
had it checked, and all it was, was a retaining clip or something, that somehow came loose (i think it was at the clutch actuator rod?) and allowed air into the system. it was a one day fix, and the car has been absolutely perfect in the few weeks since then. again, lots of hard driving.
the clutch fluid by the way, was crystal clear. had it flushed anyway.
anyone experienced this before?
TIA...
at the time, Ranger was very helpful, especially pointing out the need to ensure the clutch fluid isn't contaminated. as mentioned above, the fluid was crystal clear.
it was the rubber boot/seal on the clutch actuator rod from the master cylinder that had literally "inverted" somehow. the mechanic simply popped it back in place and things worked fine.
However, about 2 mos after that, the same thing happened again. i assumed the clutch master had already been damaged, and replaced it with a brand new OE unit.
the problem never came back until this past week, over 3 years since the last occurrence.
note that at no time before this did the clutch pedal ever have any signs of mushiness or stickyness. it was all perfect, until BAM! straight to the floor, and stayed there.
each time, it happened when the car was crawling along in extremely slow bumper to bumper traffic, necessitating repeated use of the clutch, in 92-94 degree heat. perhaps something about heat soak affecting the rubber seal over time?
So is there an upgraded or more heavy duty master cylinder assembly out there that i could try, which hopefully will cure this problem?
thanks in advance!
04-04-2014, 05:10 PM
#4
Drifting
Not trying to hijack the OP's thread, but I'm in a similar (but not as dire) situation.
Wondering about pedal effort with the tick. I think I heard somewhere that there was added effort with the tick.
For those who have them, is that correct, and if so, how much harder is the pedal?
Wondering about pedal effort with the tick. I think I heard somewhere that there was added effort with the tick.
For those who have them, is that correct, and if so, how much harder is the pedal?
04-04-2014, 05:30 PM
#5
Drifting
Not trying to hijack the OP's thread, but I'm in a similar (but not as dire) situation.
Wondering about pedal effort with the tick. I think I heard somewhere that there was added effort with the tick.
For those who have them, is that correct, and if so, how much harder is the pedal?
Wondering about pedal effort with the tick. I think I heard somewhere that there was added effort with the tick.
For those who have them, is that correct, and if so, how much harder is the pedal?
1. The removal of the factory return spring in the pedal assembly
2. The fact that the Tick moves just as much fluid as the stock one while only using about 1/2 of the pedal movement.
I quickly learned to get used to the feel and for those who have had clutch hydraulic issues like I had...it was very confidence inspiring as my pedal never went to the floor under WOT any more!
Yes it is a bit harder, but works SO MUCH better that it is worth it in my opinion!
If you want a stock pedal feel then just get used to replacing the stock unit!
04-04-2014, 05:46 PM
#6
Team Owner
Tick works great.
04-04-2014, 05:52 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Slightly stiffer but one drive later you are use to it
04-04-2014, 10:48 PM
#8
Thanks guys! Tick it is!
As far as pedal stiffness goes, how does it compare to say, a 911 GT3, which is gets VERY tiresome in bad traffic (during our rush hour jams, it can easily take 1 hr to travel 5 miles).
As far as pedal stiffness goes, how does it compare to say, a 911 GT3, which is gets VERY tiresome in bad traffic (during our rush hour jams, it can easily take 1 hr to travel 5 miles).
04-05-2014, 12:30 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Pottsboro; Sometimes Dallas Texas
Posts: 6,112
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12
Same thing happened to me....absolutely no warning of impending failure....seems like the hydraulic portion of the Z's clutch definitely needs better parts and 'was' a crappy design to begin with since it allows clutch dust to contaminate the fluid...