youzzi714

Has anyone w or w out Warranty had a Chevy dealer take care of the valve issue?

If so, what parts were replaced and total cost with parts and labor....

My Z is with WIN Chevy in South bay CA right now, just curious at what I am looking at.

Thanks,

pkincy

Are yours being tested or have they already been shown to be out of spec?

youzzi714

Being tested now, the ticking noise was getting out of control.

Mar48

I've heard of some replacing the heads - sometimes they reuse the valves sometimes they don't.

Contemplating whether I am going to go to the dealership and have mine checked out or not.

Dirty Howie

What are they charging for the testing?
Is yours still under warranty?


DH

mark1107

If WIN is the old Cormier off the 405 in Long Beach, I had my valves done there. I can scan and email you what they did with mine. Pm me an email address. I've put 50 grand in miles on my new heads, knock on wood. They tick still but not as loud and car is still strong. Mark

wjnjr

Here's how my dealer handled it:

New bare heads, intake valves and exhaust valves were sent to a local automotive machine shop where they were blueprinted - assembled to the design specs for valve stem clearance, seat concentricity and width, spring pressure and height, etc. Any necessary machine work was performed at that time. The old springs and retainers were re used after they checked out ok. The idea here (blueprinting) is to build the heads exactly as the design engineers intended, with tighter tolerances than mass production. Every spec is checked and corrected as necessary.

BTW, this shop, G&G performance engines, has a great reputation in building custom Chevrolet motors for (mostly) race cars and street cars .

The assembled heads were then returned to the dealer and installed on my car. Total cost to me $0.00.

So far I'm very pleased. Plan to do another wiggle test in about 15k mi and see how things are holding up.

Hope this helps, good luck with yours!

wjnjr

That's really good to hear, congrats! New valves or reuse old ones?

Mopar Jimmy

Very nice..........did they use the stock sodium filled valves on your new build I assume or the stainless steel one piece valves?

wjnjr

Yep, all the new parts are Chevy OEM. Head castings, all 16 valves, seals, gaskets, etc. Only parts reused were springs and retainers after they checked out OK. And lash caps too.

Hopefully it will turn out that the OEM setup is just fine, IF everything is machined and assembled correctly. After all there are some Z06s with very high mileage and no trouble.

Time and miles will tell.

Oskee

But lets not forget that there were also alot of Z06's driveway queens with very low miles (under 10K miles) that got new OEM heads and valves ....

jwebsta32

also interested in this topic as I am still under warranty and looking to get mine checked out.

ChopperLoco

...GM covered 1/3 of the $6600 bill!
New heads,exh.valves,springs lifters,gaskets and fluids!
Dom

jwebsta32

Were you out of warranty?

jedblanks

Unless the dealer is familiar with the issue (and willing to admit it) you are probably going to have to go in knowing they are out of spec. Otherwise they will likely respond that the car is within spec. YMMV

jwebsta32

Won't they check the spec for 350$ or something, per the tsb?

erikszr1

deja vu

Mark2009

There is a ton of info posted on this, but it is scattered all about so here is the summary:

1. The dealer will be totally clueless and prefer you leave them alone.
2. The dealer will agree to do the wiggle test to check the valve guides (#1 may still apply).
3. The dealer will refuse to do the wiggle test and insist on pulling the heads to measure the valve guides (#1 may still apply).

You must bring a copy of TSB #13-06-01-001 with you, or at least be able to provide the number to them so they can look it up. The TSB process, written by GM, requires the dealer to question you and confirm that you are a kook before proceeding. That is no joke.

You will be potentially liable for from $300-$1600 in labor costs, depending on how the dealer feels. If you do wind up getting repairs under warranty, those costs will be covered under warranty and those warranty repairs will be one of the following:

1. Completely new assembled heads from GM.
2. Bare new castings from GM. The changing of valves and springs and associated machine work will be done at a local shop that normally contracts to your local dealer. You may or may not get new exhaust valves, depending upon 'inspection'. You may be able to pay for new exhaust valves out of your pocket if you do not want them reused if they do pass 'inspection' (I would not want them reused).
3. Bare new castings from GM. The changing of the valves and springs will be done by the dealer with no machine work involved. I'm not sure this has ever happened but may have read about it here somewhere. It would be a total disaster.

A few things to keep in mind:

1. You car could be down for a month or more.
2. GM and/or the dealer will be in control of what is done, how it is done, and by whom it is done. If you don't like the way the process is going once they have torn down your car your only legal option is to have a wrecker remove it from their property, along with whatever dirty parts they may happen to be willing to put in a box for you. Therefore you should absolutely have a Plan B.

As you can see, the key to happiness is to find a qualified knowledgeable dealer who has preferably already been thru this process. Good luck.

Deadfast

I'm still under the warranty time frame, however, I've added an A&A SC kit and Katech cam...what are my options?

I've had my valves replaced w/the stainless steel ones, honed the heads dual reinforced titanium springs and lifters, but the ticking is really loud. Is the ticking from the cam and the lifters?

youzzi714

http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=486803{56}5 369

Thoughts on the Level 3 package?

Thinking to go this route and just upgrade rather OEM, anything I else I would need?