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[Z06] My DIY LS7 Headswap

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Old 12-16-2012, 05:27 PM
  #41  
LT5 John
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Originally Posted by JwT
Thanks I got it. Looks like ARP studs is the way to go.
Old 12-16-2012, 06:16 PM
  #42  
'06 Quicksilver Z06
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Originally Posted by JwT
Thanks I got it. Looks like ARP studs is the way to go.
I was told that ARP bolts should be OK unless you are spraying or going forced induction. Then ARP studs would be necessary.

YMMV
Old 12-16-2012, 06:29 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
I was told that ARP bolts should be OK unless you are spraying or going forced induction. Then ARP studs would be necessary.

YMMV
ARP bolts or studs are superior to stock GM pieces...ARP better clamping value than stock OEM...Can be used on NA motors and of course a must for sprayed and forced induction...Which I agree...The stock GM stuff is fine, but there are always options...

Last edited by LT5 John; 12-16-2012 at 06:32 PM.
Old 12-17-2012, 09:56 AM
  #44  
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You don't NEED an angle meter to install the factory style TTY bolts but you should have one.
Old 12-18-2012, 12:20 PM
  #45  
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Nice work man!!! Now can get out and tear it up with out worries of a dropped valve!
Old 12-22-2012, 01:42 AM
  #46  
Z06Samuel
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Very Helpful!
Thank you for posting this
Sam
Old 01-14-2013, 01:23 AM
  #47  
meanjoe
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Default Heads

Great write up. Late Model Racecraft here in Houston will install a new set of thier heads, add the rocker arm kit and all parts and labor for $4400.00
I'm curious what this job cost for you to do yourself including ALL the parts.
Even tape and rags cost money.
Old 01-14-2013, 11:25 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by meanjoe
Great write up. Late Model Racecraft here in Houston will install a new set of thier heads, add the rocker arm kit and all parts and labor for $4400.00
I'm curious what this job cost for you to do yourself including ALL the parts.
Even tape and rags cost money.
Total cash / out of pocket cost for me was $2300 or so...but I own all my own tools.
Old 01-15-2013, 09:35 AM
  #49  
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I'm assuming thats the cost of the heads also?
Old 01-15-2013, 09:42 AM
  #50  
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Assumptions are dangarous! Haha, but yes you are correct the heads were 1900 shipped. I threw in the cost of the oil, towels, distlled water, filter, gastekts, bolts and I needed a torque wrench range (22ft lbs) that I didn't have. Te big digital started at 24 and the newton meter wrench I had only went to 20. Dang!
Old 01-23-2013, 11:13 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by jeffreystar
Total cash / out of pocket cost for me was $2300 or so...but I own all my own tools.
That is not bad.

I enjoyed the write up.

My car is about to be down to do the clutch replacement. Still unsure of what I am going to do. (Katech Master/Slave kit + LS9R or Mcleod RXT).

As for the heads. I am just going to pull my factory heads off and have new guides put in and then reinstalled. Just want to do this for "insurance" purposes as I beat the hell out of my car.
Old 02-15-2013, 01:07 PM
  #52  
erichg1000
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Which heads did you put on that were only $1900?

The MLS head gaskets are pricey at $55 each - where did you get yours?
http://texas-speed.com/p-2129-gm-62l-multi-layer-steel-ls9-7layer-cylinder-head-gasket-sold-individually.aspx

What are the x-pipe parts you mentioned?

Thanks for the write up. I'm pulling my heads off on monday in preparation to install PRC heads.
Old 02-15-2013, 01:10 PM
  #53  
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I used the write up when I did mine last weekend. One thing to note that might be easier than the way mentioned.

The evil power steering pump bolt that you cant reach, you can get to by leaning over from the passenger side, got mine with a standard ratchet n socket in less than 5 minutes.
Old 02-15-2013, 03:51 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by mistermog
I used the write up when I did mine last weekend. One thing to note that might be easier than the way mentioned.

The evil power steering pump bolt that you cant reach, you can get to by leaning over from the passenger side, got mine with a standard ratchet n socket in less than 5 minutes.
Great tip!
Old 02-15-2013, 03:55 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by jeffreystar
Great tip!
I just want to say Jeff, that your writeup is one of the landmark writeups on this forum.

In fact, it is arguably the single most important technical writeup ever in this section of the forum.

I pride myself on plenty of pictures and captions in my own write-ups, but you have taken me to school.

Nice work.
Old 02-15-2013, 03:56 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by erichg1000
Which heads did you put on that were only $1900?

The MLS head gaskets are pricey at $55 each - where did you get yours?
http://texas-speed.com/p-2129-gm-62l-multi-layer-steel-ls9-7layer-cylinder-head-gasket-sold-individually.aspx

What are the x-pipe parts you mentioned?

Thanks for the write up. I'm pulling my heads off on monday in preparation to install PRC heads.
WCCH heads through Vengence Racing
Old 02-15-2013, 06:08 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
I just want to say Jeff, that your writeup is one of the landmark writeups on this forum.

In fact, it is arguably the single most important technical writeup ever in this section of the forum.

I pride myself on plenty of pictures and captions in my own write-ups, but you have taken me to school.

Nice work.
Just glad to help others and happy to add better tips and tricks over time!

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Old 02-17-2013, 02:54 PM
  #58  
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On the abs/asm removal is that for convenience or is it necessary? I saw some people just unbolt the PS pump me ease the heads out.

More detail here? When is did the ls1 heads the abs module was not under hood. PS pump was a b---h.
Old 02-17-2013, 03:08 PM
  #59  
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The ABS/ASM is never removed or unplugged, the mounting bracket bolts are removed and the ABS/ASM is just pushed out of the way.

8) Clear Movement for the ASM/ABS Module

From UNDER the car:
Locate the ASM/ABS mounting bracket
Locate the ASM/ABS mounting bracket attachment points to the subframe facing forward near bottom
Remove 2 15mm bolts
With the fans removed and the ASM/ABS Module loose we have room to remove the Power Steering Pump and Generator Bracket

Ziploc bag the bolts and label ‘ABS Module bolts’

Last edited by jeffreystar; 02-17-2013 at 03:19 PM.
Old 02-17-2013, 03:27 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by jeffreystar
The ABS/ASM is never removed or unplugged, the mounting bracket bolts are removed and the ABS/ASM is just pushed out of the way.

8) Clear Movement for the ASM/ABS Module

From UNDER the car:
Locate the ASM/ABS mounting bracket
Locate the ASM/ABS mounting bracket attachment points to the subframe facing forward near bottom
Remove 2 15mm bolts
With the fans removed and the ASM/ABS Module loose we have room to remove the Power Steering Pump and Generator Bracket

Ziploc bag the bolts and label ‘ABS Module bolts’
Thanks, I'm sure ill figure out which bolts when I see them.


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