[Z06] 2010 ZO6 DROPPED EXHAUST VALVE...! Video...
#401
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Once again, I agree, just trying to point out what may help the guys like LS7 BUD and others when posting up about failures. At the least it would be nice to know the engine build dates for those that have failed. Ended up going down a bit of a rabbit hole there.
Oh, and for what it is worth...
My Z is an 09 with 29000 miles and is my daily driver. I've got 1.5 years of powertrain left and won't do an HDPE until that is up. I am also not going to do an HDPE until I have headwork done. I planned that even before these threads started, I figured 2K is worth the beefed up top end and good insurance toward not blowing the motor. The plan is to turn it into a track queen once paid off in a few years.
Oh, and for what it is worth...
My Z is an 09 with 29000 miles and is my daily driver. I've got 1.5 years of powertrain left and won't do an HDPE until that is up. I am also not going to do an HDPE until I have headwork done. I planned that even before these threads started, I figured 2K is worth the beefed up top end and good insurance toward not blowing the motor. The plan is to turn it into a track queen once paid off in a few years.
All but one of those engines was covered by GM and when I asked the one guy why he didn't ask them about coverage he thought it would be denied due the usage.
Bill
#402
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Some new info here with another sectioned valve. One, the wall was very even on this one....which may seem good; however, you would assume the wall would be around .035 all evened up right?? Nope... .0315 -.032 but still the same .313 OD again quite interesting. And I sectioned the rear of the valve because I wanted to see the construction back there as well, another peculiar part to the puzzle. It had some nipple shaped inner piece (sodium fill port, or is the slug of sodium contained in there until it is ready to have the tip drilled out??). But the peculiar part is the fact some sodium was trapped up towards the top of the shaft hmm..i know the melting point if sodium is around 200f so why was it trapped up there?? Any thoughts??
Full sectioning by DSeddon1, on Flickr
Full sectioning by DSeddon1, on Flickr
Last edited by chadyellowz06; 07-27-2012 at 09:02 PM.
#403
I see.
If the OD is still consistent at .313, then it can only mean that the variation in wall thickness occurred during manufacture of the valve.
It didn't wear from the outside. The wall started out thin in some areas from the inside.
This could explain the part number change in May of 2008, and the relative absence of valve breakage in 2009 and up cars.
#404
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I see.
If the OD is still consistent at .313, then it can only mean that the variation in wall thickness occurred during manufacture of the valve.
It didn't wear from the outside. The wall started out thin in some areas from the inside.
This could explain the part number change in May of 2008, and the relative absence of valve breakage in 2009 and up cars.
If the OD is still consistent at .313, then it can only mean that the variation in wall thickness occurred during manufacture of the valve.
It didn't wear from the outside. The wall started out thin in some areas from the inside.
This could explain the part number change in May of 2008, and the relative absence of valve breakage in 2009 and up cars.
Where did you find evidence of a part number change? My new engine had the same part number as the original engine which was installed in the car in Dec. 07. I would like to believe a change took place but it isn't obvious from the paperwork I have. The new engine was built in May of 11.
Bill
#405
Quick, i had given my overview of what i thought the manufacturing process was a couple posts back and i definitely think the wall has to do with the concentricity of the tubing to begin with and then gets exacerbated during the final grind. And if they made the change to a better stem stock that would make perfect sense to me. Thats why i wanna see some 2009 valves and section them.
#406
Safety Car
Quick,
Where did you find evidence of a part number change? My new engine had the same part number as the original engine which was installed in the car in Dec. 07. I would like to believe a change took place but it isn't obvious from the paperwork I have. The new engine was built in May of 11.
Bill
Where did you find evidence of a part number change? My new engine had the same part number as the original engine which was installed in the car in Dec. 07. I would like to believe a change took place but it isn't obvious from the paperwork I have. The new engine was built in May of 11.
Bill
#407
Quick,
Where did you find evidence of a part number change? My new engine had the same part number as the original engine which was installed in the car in Dec. 07. I would like to believe a change took place but it isn't obvious from the paperwork I have. The new engine was built in May of 11.
Bill
Where did you find evidence of a part number change? My new engine had the same part number as the original engine which was installed in the car in Dec. 07. I would like to believe a change took place but it isn't obvious from the paperwork I have. The new engine was built in May of 11.
Bill
There was a part number change for the valves themselves, not engines.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1572763145
#408
Team Owner
Quick, i had given my overview of what i thought the manufacturing process was a couple posts back and i definitely think the wall has to do with the concentricity of the tubing to begin with and then gets exacerbated during the final grind. And if they made the change to a better stem stock that would make perfect sense to me. Thats why i wanna see some 2009 valves and section them.
It is impossible for the liquid sodium at high RPM to errode the inside of the valve stem as you found.
DH
#409
Safety Car
Some new info here with another sectioned valve. One, the wall was very even on this one....which may seem good; however, you would assume the wall would be around .035 all evened up right?? Nope... .0315 -.032 but still the same .313 OD again quite interesting. And I sectioned the rear of the valve because I wanted to see the construction back there as well, another peculiar part to the puzzle. It had some nipple shaped inner piece (sodium fill port, or is the slug of sodium contained in there until it is ready to have the tip drilled out??). But the peculiar part is the fact some sodium was trapped up towards the top of the shaft hmm..i know the melting point if sodium is around 200f so why was it trapped up there?? Any thoughts??
Full sectioning by DSeddon1, on Flickr
Full sectioning by DSeddon1, on Flickr
It would make sense why some motors go 180k while other blow at 8k, just getting one bad valve coupled with the extreme heat wearing out the guide is all it would take. I not saying 100% this is the answer but I can say with confidence it a big piece of the puzzle. Hopefully you can get your hands on some broken ones and inspect those stems too.
I am excited to see we are getting closer to a true definitive answer to this issue!
#410
Race Director
Very interesting indeed, I am all eyes/ears will be more interesting as other valves are looked at.
Thanks for taking the time to post all these pics and info
Thanks for taking the time to post all these pics and info
#411
Quick, i had given my overview of what i thought the manufacturing process was a couple posts back and i definitely think the wall has to do with the concentricity of the tubing to begin with and then gets exacerbated during the final grind. And if they made the change to a better stem stock that would make perfect sense to me. Thats why i wanna see some 2009 valves and section them.
Part #12618110, can be had from GM parts direct for $28.06 apiece.
#412
Now that I have been able to see the cut away of the stem you really see how hollow and thin the walls really are. I think you have truly discovered a huge piece of the puzzle, comparing this valve with the other one posted yesterday you can see the potential manufacturing flaws. If you get one out of eight exhaust valves that are too thin on one side of the stem that maybe the answer, or at least a big part of it.
It would make sense why some motors go 180k while other blow at 8k, just getting one bad valve coupled with the extreme heat wearing out the guide is all it would take. I not saying 100% this is the answer but I can say with confidence it a big piece of the puzzle. Hopefully you can get your hands on some broken ones and inspect those stems too.
I am excited to see we are getting closer to a true definitive answer to this issue!
It would make sense why some motors go 180k while other blow at 8k, just getting one bad valve coupled with the extreme heat wearing out the guide is all it would take. I not saying 100% this is the answer but I can say with confidence it a big piece of the puzzle. Hopefully you can get your hands on some broken ones and inspect those stems too.
I am excited to see we are getting closer to a true definitive answer to this issue!
But rather current updated OEM valves.
It will be interesting to see, but if he slices into several of the newer valves, i.e. part #12618110, and discovers the wall thicknesses to be at or near a consistent .039", then that part of the current recommend "fix" which involves going away from the stock exhaust valves, could take a hit.
#413
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St. Jude Donor '06
If what you say above does turn out to be true, then part of the currently proposed "fix", the use of heavier stainless steel valves, might not be the best valve option at all.
But rather current updated OEM valves.
It will be interesting to see, but if he slices into several of the newer valves, i.e. part #12618110, and discovers the wall thicknesses to be at or near a consistent .039", then that part of the current recommend "fix" which involves going away from the stock exhaust valves, could take a hit.
But rather current updated OEM valves.
It will be interesting to see, but if he slices into several of the newer valves, i.e. part #12618110, and discovers the wall thicknesses to be at or near a consistent .039", then that part of the current recommend "fix" which involves going away from the stock exhaust valves, could take a hit.
#414
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These are valves and springs that have been sitting around. They have not been cleaned.
Exhaust valves that came out of the 317 high mileage castings. (same heads as in the last video I posted for Bill) As seen in the pictures the valve stems have no significant discoloration or wear considering the mileage. These are staineless steal valves but there is a difference in color of the stem compared to the LS7 stems shown. There is no burnt oil on these.
Exhaust valves that came out of the 317 high mileage castings. (same heads as in the last video I posted for Bill) As seen in the pictures the valve stems have no significant discoloration or wear considering the mileage. These are staineless steal valves but there is a difference in color of the stem compared to the LS7 stems shown. There is no burnt oil on these.
#417
Safety Car
If what you say above does turn out to be true, then part of the currently proposed "fix", the use of heavier stainless steel valves, might not be the best valve option at all.
But rather current updated OEM valves.
It will be interesting to see, but if he slices into several of the newer valves, i.e. part #12618110, and discovers the wall thicknesses to be at or near a consistent .039", then that part of the current recommend "fix" which involves going away from the stock exhaust valves, could take a hit.
But rather current updated OEM valves.
It will be interesting to see, but if he slices into several of the newer valves, i.e. part #12618110, and discovers the wall thicknesses to be at or near a consistent .039", then that part of the current recommend "fix" which involves going away from the stock exhaust valves, could take a hit.
I would agree with that if I knew 100% that the new valves were truly perfect. Hopefully with more research we find if this is the root cause.
From my perspective I believe like you that throwing a heavy solid SS valve in there is not always the answer. When I look at the stability of the valvetrain my goal is to keep it as light as possible. I plan to use the Katech single beehive that weighs 65 grams instead of a dual spring.
With the release of the 85 gram hollow stem from Ferrea the wall thickness is .080 (twice as thick) but here is the key, I am not comparing it to the weight of the sodium filled but to the Ti intake. The intake is a huge valve and even though it is Ti it still weighs 78 grams, so when you compare it to the much smaller 85 gram hollow stem your not giving up that much in valvetrain stability. If you were constantly going well into the 7500 rpm range then that would be a different story. I plan to set my rev limiter around 7300.
I believe for the majority of guys, who are out of warranty! This would be a good safe fix to the problem.
#418
I'll have to order a couple of the new part numbers if I cant get them from WCCH...I can't believe they can make this valve for 28$ that is F'ing ridiculous, that's like 1.5 lap dances. Haha....maybe this is the reason there has been variation, the cost doesn't justify QC time??
For me, seeing the thin walls in this valve and the variation in the other immediately turns into differential thermal profiles on all these valves. Which would explain why the tunes have actually had an effect on them. If valve X has a nice even .039 wall versus valve Y at .029 the amount of thermal stress and fatigue They both see is going to be wildly different. Let's hope the new ones had a beefed, more uniform wall. I would still like to see .050 of wall in there, it just seems so thin to be in exhaust temperatures of 1200F-1600F and repeatedly hammered open and snapped shut.
For me, seeing the thin walls in this valve and the variation in the other immediately turns into differential thermal profiles on all these valves. Which would explain why the tunes have actually had an effect on them. If valve X has a nice even .039 wall versus valve Y at .029 the amount of thermal stress and fatigue They both see is going to be wildly different. Let's hope the new ones had a beefed, more uniform wall. I would still like to see .050 of wall in there, it just seems so thin to be in exhaust temperatures of 1200F-1600F and repeatedly hammered open and snapped shut.
Last edited by 240sx2jz; 07-28-2012 at 12:04 PM.
#419
I'll have to order a couple of the new part numbers if I cant get them from WCCH...I can't believe they can make this valve for 28$ that is F'ing ridiculous, that's like 1.5 lap dances. Haha....maybe this is the reason there has been variation, the cost doesn't justify QC time??
For me, seeing the thin walls in this valve and the variation in the other immediately turns into differential thermal profiles on all these valves. Which would explain why the tunes have actually had an effect on them. If valve X has a nice even .039 wall versus valve Y at .029 the amount of thermal stress and fatigue They both see is going to be wildly different. Let's hope the new ones had a beefed, more uniform wall. I would still like to see .050 of wall in there, it just seems so thin to be in exhaust temperatures of 1200F-1600F and repeatedly hammered open and snapped shut.
For me, seeing the thin walls in this valve and the variation in the other immediately turns into differential thermal profiles on all these valves. Which would explain why the tunes have actually had an effect on them. If valve X has a nice even .039 wall versus valve Y at .029 the amount of thermal stress and fatigue They both see is going to be wildly different. Let's hope the new ones had a beefed, more uniform wall. I would still like to see .050 of wall in there, it just seems so thin to be in exhaust temperatures of 1200F-1600F and repeatedly hammered open and snapped shut.
I lot of questions stand to be answered depending on what you find in wall thickness from measurements of random brand new valves.
I am considering buying some of the newer valves myself and cutting into them for measurements.
What are you using to cut them, and with that sodium in them, I know it shouldn't come into contact with water, but what other safety measures are you using when you cut them?
What micrometer are you using to measure the thickness with?
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 07-28-2012 at 12:47 PM.
#420
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I have seen you post this before, and I think the confusion lies in which part we are talking about.
There was a part number change for the valves themselves, not engines.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1572763145
There was a part number change for the valves themselves, not engines.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1572763145
Bill