[Z06] Valve Guide wear.
12-29-2011, 04:17 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Valve Guide wear.
Curious I was just thinking that of all the hundreds of threads on valve guide wear I can’t recall seeing any that observed any deformation of the valve seat and or valve head. That is those that measured what they consider excessive wear of the guide. If there is wear distortions I would think a leak down or compression test would see some abnormalities.
12-29-2011, 07:53 PM
#2
Race Director
Hi Jim
I got this PM from another forum member about a month ago:
I got this a short time afterwards when he had dropped off the heads at the shop:
His car had about 80,000 miles and a bunch of track days.
I haven't gotten any other info from him yet, but I guess the heads are done by now.
Bob
BTW, I'll see you when you're in town for the 500!
I got this PM from another forum member about a month ago:
got the heads off today and found:
1. guide wear is massive
2. valve seals are destroyed by heat
3. intake ports in head bathed in oil
4. oil everywhere
5. exhaust guides worse than intakes
If i opened the exhaust valve about 1/2" I would say it has atleast 16 to 20 thousands side movement.
Very very loose.
I think when the guides get worn they no longer transfer any heat from the valve and the valve gets hot and ruins the tiny little seal and oil goes everywhere.
The intake ports were coated in oil. Looked like they were gold anodized.
Everything in the exhaust was covered in soot.
Spark plugs looked perfect.
I can't belive it did not smoke like a freight train.
I'm headed off to the head guy on monday.
You should go to chevy and get one valve seal to look at. Looks very marginal to begin with.
I will let you know as I start to put it back together.
1. guide wear is massive
2. valve seals are destroyed by heat
3. intake ports in head bathed in oil
4. oil everywhere
5. exhaust guides worse than intakes
If i opened the exhaust valve about 1/2" I would say it has atleast 16 to 20 thousands side movement.
Very very loose.
I think when the guides get worn they no longer transfer any heat from the valve and the valve gets hot and ruins the tiny little seal and oil goes everywhere.
The intake ports were coated in oil. Looked like they were gold anodized.
Everything in the exhaust was covered in soot.
Spark plugs looked perfect.
I can't belive it did not smoke like a freight train.
I'm headed off to the head guy on monday.
You should go to chevy and get one valve seal to look at. Looks very marginal to begin with.
I will let you know as I start to put it back together.
I got this a short time afterwards when he had dropped off the heads at the shop:
I droped the heads off today. They carried them in for me and knew they were LS7 heads. That made me feel a little better.
They were not concerened just another set of heads. He said he would not replace any valves or valve springs just for the sake of changing things.
Going to spec everything out and call me.
He was not keen on the bronze guides, going to stay with the powered metal.
I think they will proably be done this week.
.
.
.
We went to Barber 2 weeks ago and I used 3 1/2 qts.
Zero smoke. Go figure.
They were not concerened just another set of heads. He said he would not replace any valves or valve springs just for the sake of changing things.
Going to spec everything out and call me.
He was not keen on the bronze guides, going to stay with the powered metal.
I think they will proably be done this week.
.
.
.
We went to Barber 2 weeks ago and I used 3 1/2 qts.
Zero smoke. Go figure.
His car had about 80,000 miles and a bunch of track days.
I haven't gotten any other info from him yet, but I guess the heads are done by now.
Bob
BTW, I'll see you when you're in town for the 500!
12-29-2011, 09:41 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Im curious to know what kind of guides they used. Most shops use bronze guides because the powdered metal iron guides aren't available. Even GM doesn't sell them, you must buy a complete head assembly from them.
12-29-2011, 10:13 PM
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '06
Curious I was just thinking that of all the hundreds of threads on valve guide wear I can’t recall seeing any that observed any deformation of the valve seat and or valve head. That is those that measured what they consider excessive wear of the guide. If there is wear distortions I would think a leak down or compression test would see some abnormalities.
12-29-2011, 10:32 PM
#6
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'22-'23
I read somewhere that Lingenfelter uses OEM guides. I don't know it for a fact but they could have the connections to get them.
12-29-2011, 10:59 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
12-29-2011, 11:01 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
12-29-2011, 11:34 PM
#10
12-30-2011, 12:45 AM
#11
Team Owner
I would think all the guys who can't drive their cars right now would be MORE likely to spend some time on the Forum
BTW: One of our local track guys decided to get his heads reworked. He wasn't having any problems, just getting paranoid watching his buddies blow up their engines
They found badly worn guides !!
DH
12-30-2011, 12:59 AM
#12
Former Vendor
I might as well drop in
I would think all the guys who can't drive their cars right now would be MORE likely to spend some time on the Forum
BTW: One of our local track guys decided to get his heads reworked. He wasn't having any problems, just getting paranoid watching his buddies blow up their engines They found badly worn guides !!
DH
I would think all the guys who can't drive their cars right now would be MORE likely to spend some time on the Forum
BTW: One of our local track guys decided to get his heads reworked. He wasn't having any problems, just getting paranoid watching his buddies blow up their engines
They found badly worn guides !!DH
12-30-2011, 01:11 AM
#13
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St. Jude Donor '06
And Ricky, I bet this thread gets past the 40 post mark, especially with Ryne Z06's statement above, a forum tuner here with LOTS of LS7 experience.
RyneZ06,
What issues are you finding with LS7 heads and what is your theory as to the causation of said problem, and the fix for same?
Do you think running a better oil than M1 5W30 would help with the problem and if yes, what oil and weight do you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; 12-30-2011 at 01:14 AM.
12-30-2011, 01:19 AM
#15
Former Vendor
And Ricky, I bet this thread gets past the 40 post mark, especially with Ryne Z06's statement above, a forum tuner here with LOTS of LS7 experience.
RyneZ06,
What issues are you finding with LS7 heads and what is your theory as to the causation of said problem, and the fix for same?
Do you think running a better oil than M1 5W30 would help with the problem and if yes, what oil and weight do you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Cunningham Motorsports; 12-30-2011 at 01:21 AM.
12-30-2011, 01:26 AM
#16
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '06
you know i am not an engineer, but i believe after talking to richard at WCCH that it might have something to do with the heat transfer with sodium filled exh valves... but there is likely other causes as well... i wouldnt be the one to really ask on that one... i know what i see and i see it alot... i personally dont care for mobil 1 that much, i feel it doesnt hold up to heat all that well... fine for street driving, maybe not quite up to the task for road course use... i have found redline, torco oil, and amsoil much much better, and i also run 10w-30 or 10w-40 in my personal c6 z06 that i road course...
It will be REAL interesting to see with time whether the ZR1 has the same issue or not.
Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; 12-30-2011 at 01:28 AM.
12-30-2011, 01:28 AM
#17
Former Vendor
Thank you Ryne, many of us really appreicate the insight from a high performance LSx Forum tuner on a unpopular subject, that gives us a reason for legimate concern (and motivates us to keep our warranties in tact).
It will be REAL interesting to see with time whehter the ZR1 has the same issue or not.
It will be REAL interesting to see with time whehter the ZR1 has the same issue or not.
12-30-2011, 01:34 AM
#18
Team Owner
And Ricky, I bet this thread gets past the 40 post mark, especially with Ryne Z06's statement above, a forum tuner here with LOTS of LS7 experience.
RyneZ06,
What issues are you finding with LS7 heads and what is your theory as to the causation of said problem, and the fix for same?
Do you think running a better oil than M1 5W30 would help with the problem and if yes, what oil and weight do you recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Ryne, is one of the top (some think he is the top
) tuners and performance engine builders here in SoCal. He knows his ****. Plus he is a sponsor of our local Corvette Challenge (check SoCal and search me if interested). His C6Z06 his an animal and he can drive it on the track too DH
12-30-2011, 01:35 AM
#19
Former Vendor
Jimmy
Ryne, is one of the top (some think he is the top) tuners and performance engine builders here in SoCal. He knows his ****. Plus he is a sponsor of our local Corvette Challenge (check SoCal and search me if interested). His C6Z06 his an animal and he can drive it on the track too
DH
Ryne, is one of the top (some think he is the top
) tuners and performance engine builders here in SoCal. He knows his ****. Plus he is a sponsor of our local Corvette Challenge (check SoCal and search me if interested). His C6Z06 his an animal and he can drive it on the track too DH
12-30-2011, 01:36 AM
#20
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '06
Thanks Ryne, really appreciate it man.
I am going to switch to Redline Oil I belive in the spring.
My car is driven 99% of the time on the street, shoud I go with:
OW30
0W40
5W30
5W40
10W30
10W40
I would think since a majority of wear and tear on an engine takes place upon cold start up, my common sense tells me that 0W30 makes more sense for a street driven car, that is driven in colder weather also, than 5W30 or 10W30?
What do you think?
I am going to switch to Redline Oil I belive in the spring.
My car is driven 99% of the time on the street, shoud I go with:
OW30
0W40
5W30
5W40
10W30
10W40
I would think since a majority of wear and tear on an engine takes place upon cold start up, my common sense tells me that 0W30 makes more sense for a street driven car, that is driven in colder weather also, than 5W30 or 10W30?
What do you think?