Stab337

Looking for a shop to install ( press ) the comp cam trunion upgrade for my 07 Z06 rocker arms. It only has 2k miles on it and I haven't had any problems as of yet. Ill be doing the reinstalling the rockers myself. My question is has anyone gotten a final answer on whether to use the stock rocker arm bolts or the ones supplied with the comp kit. I have seen multiple topics concerning the stock bolts did not have enough threads on them and the kit bolts were too long for the ls7. Any shops or people having personal experience with this product your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

0TJ@RPMtransmissions

The supplied bolts are too long. I reused the stock bolts and they had plenty of thread.

Stab337

Thanks for the fast reply TJ.

htvette

If you can re-install the rockers yourself then you can save the money by buying a vise and a snap ring plyier and press it in yourself. I've done on both LS3 and LS7 and it's easy. The kit comes with instructions.

Olddudesrule

vvlf

Did you hand turn the motor when you did those rocker jobs. I'm struggling with mine at the moment. Looks like some stuff going to have to come out in order to be able to have the clearance to turn the motor properly

Olddudesrule

Yes, we did turn it by hand. Steering rack had to come out to get proper clearance.

Z06LINK

vvlf,
As i recall, when I did my CHE rocker arms, pulled all the spark plugs and then used a 24mm end wrench on the balancer bolt, from the passenger side. was pretty easy to turn over to tighten the rocker arms on the base circle.

htvette

One time I did turn the motor because we were in the middle swapping a cam. The other time I did not turn the motor. Started the car, then shut off and open the valve covers again and retorqued. Did used blue loctite on the bolts.

vvlf

Part of the problem is I'm a jackass and didn't remove all the spark plugs as to relieve the compression that was trying to build when turning the motor by hand. The second was using a 15/16ths wrench as I was told it was good enough <- it worked, but was still too loose for my liking and was slowly but surely rounding / scoring the main crank bolt on the harmonic balancer. I'll stick with using the proper size and type wrench, a 24mm box wrench with a seep 45-degree offset

And are you saying you didn't follow the standard method (which admittedly I just learned) where you want to take as much tension off the roller-rockers as possible when installing them by turning the motor over till you found TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder, tightened down the corresponding exhaust and intake roller rockers that were fully closed. Then rotate the the crank 360-degress and then install / torque down the remaining closed roller rockers that had little to no tension on them due to the valves being closed

What I've come to learn is that it doesn't matter if your TDC on the #1 cylinder so long as you install the roller rockers when whatever corresponding valves you are working on are completely closed so that you aren't installing the rockers with any un-necessary tension (* which would seem to propose the idea that tightening the rockers with unnecessary or a great amount of tension would leave a person to not have the roller rockers installed all the way or correctly since you would be fighting the lift of the open exhaust and/or intake valves).

I'm also new at all this, so what do I now

Z06LINK

Take a look at page 9-1165 Engine Mechanical in the shop manual there is a detailed description of rotating the crankshaft to top dead center of number one cylinder tighten exhaust valve rocker arm bolts on 1,2,7 & 8 and intake rocker arm bolts on 1,3,4 & 5. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees and tighten exhaust rocker arms on 3,4,5 & 6 and intake rockers 2,6,7 & 8. Torque spec is 30 N-m (22 lb ft). The shop manual clearly states "DO NOT Tighten" the rocker arms without following the above procedure. Hope this helps.

Unreal

I had my blower/etc on before my rockers so I couldn't turn the motor. I had the plugs out, tightened the ones I had, then used the starter to turn the motor over. Took a few tries to get them all to the right spot but it was easier than pulling the rack/etc out just to turn the motor over.

vvlf

Thats the funny thing, I have the full GM service manual and it is detailed as to the sequence of which rockers to tighten when finding TDC on the #1 cyliner - then rotating 360-degree's etc. But then it says nothing about pulling all the spark-plugs or even what size box wrench to use when turning the crank or that it needs to be a 45-degree offset 24mm. Just seemed odd that it had some details, but left out others. Then again the ones they left out were probly pretty common knowledge since this is out of the service manual and not the owners manual.

Speaking with a long time buddy who owns a shop and builds high HP motors for a living, doing the way described in the manual is ofcourse ideal, but in the end really what we are trying to achieve is simply making sure to install the rockers when their corresponding valves are completely closed so there is no un-necesary tension on the RR's. Which ever way you get there, it really doesn't matter <- but the method outlined in the manual does provide a more direct layout / sequence of exactly which valves will be closed and what rockers to do when at TDC for the #1 piston. Just sucks you cant see inside the #1 spark plug hole to look for the piston height. So I guess I'll just use the straw in the sprak plug hole method along with just visually inspection the valves / rockers for all the ones that should be closed when the #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke


what do you mean by "tightened the ones I had". Didn't you pull all the plugs, or were you referring to something else?

Thats what I was talking to my buddy about. If it was a regular key turn ignition I could just give it a half crank to rotate the motor. But with our push-button setup, the car would fireup when you push the start button right ? So what were you referring to when you said, "used the started to turn the motor over"

Unreal

I pulled the fuel pump and both right and left injector fuses then hit start. The start will just turn the motor but without fuel it won't start.

LS9Drew

has anyone tried these?
http://www.harlandsharp.com/ls1.htm

Or is the Comp mod just as good? and does anyone have a Core Program for them?

0Cunningham Motorsports

you dont need to turn the motor over and put the each cylinder to TDC like an old small block... the rocker system does not have adjustable preload like the old smallblocks... just install and torque to spec... the lifter preload is determined by the pushrod length.......

bullitt4110

this is the way I've always done it on LSx's and never had an issue.

vvlf

Even though there's no adjustability to the lifter pre-load and you can get away with installing the rockers that way, aren't you simply going against the grain installing the rockers while the valves are still open and there's tension being put on them (*the rockers)

Something tells me there's a reason its listed the way it is in the chevy service manual where they say to install the rockers when the valves are closed (* not talking smack and no offense intended)

Random84

What do you think happens when a 300# spring is compressed as the valves open with this same rocker? Tension

Also, remember that the hydraulic lifters compress without oil pressure, so I am guessing that along will probably give you enough play to where it makes no difference?

LS7-EB

One other important reason to use the proper sequence is there will be less wear and tear on the threads of the heads as you torque the rocker bolts. Remember, they're aluminum heads, not cast iron.