[Z06] LS7 statistical failure rate, things to look for with high miles..
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
LS7 statistical failure rate, things to look for with high miles..
Most of us on this board either have an LS7 or used to own a Z06. I'm in the former now with an 06 Z06 with 71K miles. I love the hell out of the car but unfortunately, I cannot put a warranty on the motor, tranny, or any other power train parts. I'm on my own so to speak. What I want to know is:
Are there are any kind of statistics kept on the failure rate of the LS7?
What is the "weak spot" of the engine, what should I be concerned about at this point in its life?
Since I cant put a warranty on the car, what could I do to my engine to ensure it is going to last me a nice long time?
Alternatively, how should I go about getting my engine inspected to see if there are any problems? Kind of like getting a stress test to see if you are at risk for a heart attack...
In terms of driving style, what should I NOT DO while driving the car that could hurt the motor?
Lastly, what could I do, aside from regular oil changes to help prevent total engine failure?
I just need some information, and some tips. I started a previous thread asking about warranty information since I have some money saved up. I'm now thinking of taking my $1,500+ and putting it into the motor/transmission to ensure it is rock solid. I know its a lot of questions, I'm not the paranoid type, I just need some information specific to my situation. As they say, knowledge is power!
Are there are any kind of statistics kept on the failure rate of the LS7?
What is the "weak spot" of the engine, what should I be concerned about at this point in its life?
Since I cant put a warranty on the car, what could I do to my engine to ensure it is going to last me a nice long time?
Alternatively, how should I go about getting my engine inspected to see if there are any problems? Kind of like getting a stress test to see if you are at risk for a heart attack...
In terms of driving style, what should I NOT DO while driving the car that could hurt the motor?
Lastly, what could I do, aside from regular oil changes to help prevent total engine failure?
I just need some information, and some tips. I started a previous thread asking about warranty information since I have some money saved up. I'm now thinking of taking my $1,500+ and putting it into the motor/transmission to ensure it is rock solid. I know its a lot of questions, I'm not the paranoid type, I just need some information specific to my situation. As they say, knowledge is power!
Last edited by forg0tmypen; 05-17-2011 at 07:10 PM.
#2
Team Owner
Basic maintence. Change filters, plugs, fluids when needed. Rear end, brake, tranny, clutch, etc. Don't beat on it until oil is up to temp. Normally 140+ is a good number.
Other then that, enjoy it. Don't bang off the rev limiter or do anything dumb.
Other then that, enjoy it. Don't bang off the rev limiter or do anything dumb.
#3
Tech Contributor
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Driving around town and on the highway there isn't any thing you need to do. On the track, keep the revs below 5500 most of the time. Don't do a lot of running with the rpms near the 7K rpm rev limiter. I don't say never do it just don't make it a continuous habit as it is very easy to get addicted to the way the engine pulls above 6K rpm especially in 3rd and 4th gear.
Bill
Bill
#4
Race Director
Driving around town and on the highway there isn't any thing you need to do. On the track, keep the revs below 5500 most of the time. Don't do a lot of running with the rpms near the 7K rpm rev limiter. I don't say never do it just don't make it a continuous habit as it is very easy to get addicted to the way the engine pulls above 6K rpm especially in 3rd and 4th gear.
Bill
Bill
It was clear at the Mojave Mile that the best runs required taking it to 7K in 3rd and 4th (acceleration really dropped off in 5th gear).
#6
Drifting
Member Since: Feb 2007
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What is the concern with running the motor in the upper rev range (once the motor is fully warmed up, but not overheated)? With the stock motor/fresh fluids, what would you look for as max water and oil temps (road circuits)?
It was clear at the Mojave Mile that the best runs required taking it to 7K in 3rd and 4th (acceleration really dropped off in 5th gear).
It was clear at the Mojave Mile that the best runs required taking it to 7K in 3rd and 4th (acceleration really dropped off in 5th gear).
#7
Melting Slicks
Just like everything else, decisions on LS7 componenets were made based on cost and performance. The two weak links in the engine are the hypereutectic (cast) aluminum pistons and the two piece exhaust valves.
The exhaust valve heads can separate and when they come in contact with the cast aluminum pistons, the softer aluminum piston loses and comes apart leaving the titanium rod swinging on the crankshaft. The rod then destroys everything in its path.
Having said that, there are several LS7 engines with over 100k miles and they are still running strong. If you love the car, just keep up the GM recommended maintenance and drive it within factory recommendations.
The exhaust valve heads can separate and when they come in contact with the cast aluminum pistons, the softer aluminum piston loses and comes apart leaving the titanium rod swinging on the crankshaft. The rod then destroys everything in its path.
Having said that, there are several LS7 engines with over 100k miles and they are still running strong. If you love the car, just keep up the GM recommended maintenance and drive it within factory recommendations.
#8
Burning Brakes
Just like everything else, decisions on LS7 componenets were made based on cost and performance. The two weak links in the engine are the hypereutectic (cast) aluminum pistons and the two piece exhaust valves.
The exhaust valve heads can separate and when they come in contact with the cast aluminum pistons, the softer aluminum piston loses and comes apart leaving the titanium rod swinging on the crankshaft. The rod then destroys everything in its path.
Having said that, there are several LS7 engines with over 100k miles and they are still running strong. If you love the car, just keep up the GM recommended maintenance and drive it within factory recommendations.
The exhaust valve heads can separate and when they come in contact with the cast aluminum pistons, the softer aluminum piston loses and comes apart leaving the titanium rod swinging on the crankshaft. The rod then destroys everything in its path.
Having said that, there are several LS7 engines with over 100k miles and they are still running strong. If you love the car, just keep up the GM recommended maintenance and drive it within factory recommendations.
#9
Most of us on this board either have an LS7 or used to own a Z06. I'm in the former now with an 06 Z06 with 71K miles. I love the hell out of the car but unfortunately, I cannot put a warranty on the motor, tranny, or any other power train parts. I'm on my own so to speak. What I want to know is:
Are there are any kind of statistics kept on the failure rate of the LS7?
What is the "weak spot" of the engine, what should I be concerned about at this point in its life?
Since I cant put a warranty on the car, what could I do to my engine to ensure it is going to last me a nice long time?
Alternatively, how should I go about getting my engine inspected to see if there are any problems? Kind of like getting a stress test to see if you are at risk for a heart attack...
In terms of driving style, what should I NOT DO while driving the car that could hurt the motor?
Lastly, what could I do, aside from regular oil changes to help prevent total engine failure?
I just need some information, and some tips. I started a previous thread asking about warranty information since I have some money saved up. I'm now thinking of taking my $1,500+ and putting it into the motor/transmission to ensure it is rock solid. I know its a lot of questions, I'm not the paranoid type, I just need some information specific to my situation. As they say, knowledge is power!
Are there are any kind of statistics kept on the failure rate of the LS7?
What is the "weak spot" of the engine, what should I be concerned about at this point in its life?
Since I cant put a warranty on the car, what could I do to my engine to ensure it is going to last me a nice long time?
Alternatively, how should I go about getting my engine inspected to see if there are any problems? Kind of like getting a stress test to see if you are at risk for a heart attack...
In terms of driving style, what should I NOT DO while driving the car that could hurt the motor?
Lastly, what could I do, aside from regular oil changes to help prevent total engine failure?
I just need some information, and some tips. I started a previous thread asking about warranty information since I have some money saved up. I'm now thinking of taking my $1,500+ and putting it into the motor/transmission to ensure it is rock solid. I know its a lot of questions, I'm not the paranoid type, I just need some information specific to my situation. As they say, knowledge is power!
Or since people have pointed to the valve guides, just get a new set of heads altogether.
It'll cost you some money, so don't forget your checkbook and don't forget your pen.
Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 05-17-2011 at 06:40 PM.
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
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I am assuming he is referring to when the car is on a roadcourse for an HPDE event, etc. When tracking your car(tracking referring to a roadcourse), power is far less important that your line and ability to balance traction with braking and accelaration. Shifting at any ponit below 7000rpm would exponentially lengthen the motor's fatigue interval with such driving. If you are blasting down the 1/4 or doing a mile event, wring her out to 7k. That type of use isn't going to be nearly as detrimental as hovering between 5500rpm and 7k rpm for a 15~20 minute session.
Bill
#11
Le Mans Master
- at least do the valve springs, rockers and valves and throw in a new clutch. This should get you another 71k miles easy.
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the info. What would I be looking at for pricing with new valve springs, and valves? My car already had the clutch and rocker arms replaced at 50k miles. What is wrong with the valves and springs on the stock motor?
#15
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#17
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...-complete.html
That's about what you were going to pay for that warranty you mentioned earlier. Plus if you went that route, you could sell your current heads to offset the cost. Just an idea if you are worried.
#19
Burning Brakes