PeterM

Good for you; an educated consumer is a happy consumer.

I'm still amazed that many of these characters don't see the double dip that's coming.

John Shiels

That is the gamble they take and your right is to shop. Look at ZR-1's at 150 grand and now no interest below MSRP If you want to be first you pay. When I want to buy a C5 stick it was 5 over list in 97 or 98. Waited a year and it was 5 grand off so 10,000 grand difference in a year for a stick shift. We all think we have gold when selling and tin when buying. market sets the price.

John Shiels

AP's nice

HC Mechanic

Beautiful brakes! Thanks for the post

I'm in the market for a set of rotors...I think these baby's get the

Out of curiosity, what's the difference between the Coleman and the AFX or LG rotors?

Random84

OFF TOPIC:


There are plenty of people who refuse to see the Double Dip (or a decade or two of lost growth, IMHO) - there is no specific professional requirement to have that viewpoint.

But, to play Devil's Advocate: I've been waiting for that Double Dip for three years now. I have to tip my hat to the Powers That Be - they've done a great job at delaying the inevitable for their own uses (abeit at tremendous cost).

nhpln

What is the difference between solid mount and floating? Is solid mount still a 2-piece? If so, what makes the floating ones $65 more? Do they weigh less than the solid mounts? Less prone to heat effects?

Jawnathin

Love those rotors. If I stick with the stock system, those are the ones to get a long with a set of one piece single pads.

I understand this is an old thread, but in case you happen to stumble upon it... Any feedback on the compatibility with the OEM Hand/E-Brake? I assume each rotor was quoted at $450, not the whole set?

B y r o n

Both types are 2 piece with the following differences: Floating rotor have different mounting hardware and allow for minor side to side movement and expansion and contraction of the ring. Solid rotor don't really allow for any side to side movement or expansion/contraction of the ring. It is said that floating rotors can make more noise because of this movement.

I don't think there is much if any weight difference in weight.

nhpln

Thanks. Are the rotors in the original post the solid or floating type?

Random84

The reason why "floating" rotors can be important, is that if the rotors are static, they can distort at speed and with movement. This has the effect of decentering the rotor slightly (relative to the center line of the caliper) which can compress one pad or the other.

This increase in gap - or "slack" in the caliper pistons - relative to the surface of the rotor can result in a loose-feeling pedal. How loose depends on the braking system, the amount of deflection, wheel movement, etc etc.

So "floating" is ideal from a braking performance perspective - but as with all things there is a trade-off: the mechanisms used to float the rotor relative to the hub (allowing the rotor to move and stay centered in the caliper) often creates a decent amount of noise. For reference, most OEM systems are non-floating, and very few people notice any soft-pedal effects because they just don't push the braking system that hard. For *most* people, the floating system is not necessary, and probably would be frustrating from a noise perspective.

But that's just what I picked up from the internet.

BillY2KFRC

Anybody else having issues with extreme rusting on these rotors? Any part that isn't touched by the pad is rusty, including inside the slots. I guess it's my fault that I should've asked if these are zinc coated before buying, but I assumed that they were for the money. Is there a performance reason for this? The huge weight savings is awesome and they work flawless on the street and track, so overall I'm happy. When people comment I tell them it's because they are a 'race' part, so it's not a big deal. I just expected them to look a little nicer for my $1500.

Random84

Mark off the rusted areas with tape (the pad path), bead-blast the rust off and then coat with hi-temp black paint.

That should buy you a few years... but I agree - I noticed these aren't zinc coated and I find that odd, considering that aesthetic is important to a LOT of Corvette owners.

StreetRacingGuy

I always use POR 15 for rotors....take rotors off car, clean/remove rust, use a brush and apply POR 15 (obviously mask off rotor surface) and let dry for 2 days before putting them back on. They will stay black forever.

Bill Dearborn

How well does POR15 hold up when the rotor temps are above 1200 deg F? Most of the paint I have seen on rotors turns sort of chalky gray after a couple of track sessions.

Bill

Random84

It's a rust prevention coating specifically designed for hi-temp areas like exhaust manifolds, intakes, etc. So that's probably why it holds up well on *most* rotors.

I just checked it out online and it's not too bad: $20 for a 1/2 pint can of it.

http://www.advanced-rust-protection....ry_Code=HiTemp

troy6166

Thanks for posting. I was getting ready to pull the trigger as I have put my Z on a diet, however, I will not sacrafice appearance.

HC Mechanic

I second that, thanks for posting

soldier4life

Is this still and issue? do DBA 5000's do the same? Im beyond ready to buy and narrowed it down to DBA or Colemans...