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[Z06] Anyone know where I can get step-by-step instructions to change my brake pads??
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Anyone know where I can get step-by-step instructions to change my brake pads??
Did a search, and nothing on changing pads on STOCK calipers.
I've done it a ton of times on my S2000 and other hondas, but want to know what I'm getting into before I start. I have a feeling this may be more complicated.
There's nothing to it, I just did it. 2 bolts on each caliper, push the pistons in, clip out the old pads-clip in the new pads.....One of the easiest pad changes I've ever done, did all 4 in about 45 mins. Good luck !
There was a thread somewhere on this.. I can't find it now. Anyhow, if you've changed pads on other cars, there's not much difference on a Z06.
I've got some pics I took when changing my pads and pulling off a rotor (was going to paint them, but decided otherwise). I'll post them up soon since we seem to get this question a lot
Did a search, and nothing on changing pads on STOCK calipers.
I've done it a ton of times on my S2000 and other hondas, but want to know what I'm getting into before I start. I have a feeling this may be more complicated.
Have a set of Cobalts ready for the track.
Thanks!!
There are two ways to replace Z06 brake padlets. One is to remove the caliper and the other is to remove the padlet locater pins and pull the padlet out of the top of the caliper.
I've changed pads both ways. If you go with single piece pads instead of padlets, you will have to remove the caliper.
To remove the padlets without removing the caliper, you have to take out at least three of the four pins (per side) on the front and two of the three pins on the rear. My 08 Z06 has Torx head pins (#45 or (#46 if you can find one for a tighter fit) Torx driver). Somewhere GM went from hex to Torx. I think it was in 2007. Some people had problems breaking allen wrenches on the hex pins. The Torx seem better. All new OEM pads come with new Torx pins.
I use a #45 Torx socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. If the pins have been in for a long time they can be difficult to remove. Once they break free, they turn very easily - so watch your knuckles :-) I make sure that I hold the Torx in all the way and push hard in on the pin as I break the pin free. The same would go for the hex head pins. This helps reduce the chance of rounding off the Torx or hex head.
Once the pins are out, the padlet can be pulled up with a pair of pliers (they have a little tab on the top). I sometimes have to use a broad screwdriver to break the padlet free of the piston (does not take too much pressure - just a bit of a twist on the screwdriver). Be careful about the caliper paint.
There are two ways to allow the brake fluid to be pushed back when you push the pucks in... (1) is to open the master cylinder cap and allow the fluid to push up there (make sure to remove a little fluid if it is full at the start) or (2) is to crack the bleeder nipple at the caliper as you push the puck back. The second way is better - it gets rid of the nasty fluid at the caliper instead of pushing it into the brake lines. My friend does his this way. I usually just push the calipers in and then do a quick pressure bleed (I use a Motive pressure bleeder - works great - about $50) at each wheel as I go.
I've used several items to push the pucks in - the rubber coated handle end of a pair of Craftsman pliers (slip joint style) worked pretty good. The biggest problem is that as you push on in, the other two want to push out. I found that putting in the new padlets as I went along worked - that is, pull the thee old padlets, push the lowest puck back in, insert the new padlet, then push the next puck in, insert the second new padlet, and finally do the third. Put one locater pin in after each padlet install. They should go in easily (I use a VERY small amount of anti-seize on the pin threads (I use hi-temp LocTite Copper anti-seize)). No anti-seize is better than the wrong kind or too much. Be very careful - it is easy to cross thread or try to force the pin in with the padlet not aligned - this can bend the pin. If you are using new GM OEM pads, they will come with new pins. You can use them or not. The pins are only torqued to 27 ft/lbs (I think - I will have to check to be sure). It is not a real high value.
If you are using GM OEM replacement padlets, there will be four with medal pad wear indicator tabs. These should go on the top of the front brakes, and the bottom of the rears (trailing edges) - check the old ones as you remove them for reference.
Most aftermarket pads or padlets do not have wear indicator tabs.
Other than the tabs, all of the padlets, all 20, front and rear are the same and interchangeable.
The other way to change padlets (and the way you have to change one piece pads or if you are replacing rotors) is to remove the caliper. There are two large bolts in the back side of the caliper that holds them on. Just remove both. Be careful not to let the caliper fall or be held up by the flex line. I use a piece of coat hanger to hold it up while working on it.
Once the caliper is off, you can pop all the padlets off (no need to remove the locater pins). Keep the anti-rattle clip/spring in place. Push the pucks in (I've found that three mid size Stanley quick grip bar clamps (the ones that you just squeeze to tighten and have nice soft yellow pads on the jaw parts - work great). I can send you a picture later if you are not familiar. These might even work with the caliper in-place, but I haven't tried them that way yet. Now that you have the padlets out, three of the pucks pushed back in, just load the new padlets or pad. Make sure that the padlet metal tab is pointing out away from the center of the hub and that the friction material is facing in (sounds kind of dumb, but it is possible to install the padlets upside down or wrong side in).
Now do the other side of the caliper the same way. Slide the loaded caliper back over the rotor (hopefully you've pushed the pucks back in far enough) and re-install the caliper bolts. The torque is pretty high, 129 ft/lbs I think. I use a little blue LockTite on the threads and tighten the bolts firmly with a 1/2" ratchet.
Same procedure for all four wheels.
If the rotor retaining clips are still on your car - (little thin star washers over one or two studs on each wheel) remove them and discard. They only can cause problems (the service manual also says to remove and discard). They can keep the wheel from mating fully to the hub (esp with aftermarket wheels) and cause a vibration at speed,
Put your wheels back on and torque the bolts to 100 ft/lb - this torque value is important - otherwise it is easy to warp a rotor when hot.
One last thing - be careful when you move the car - you will need to pump the brakes a few times to keep the pedal from going to the floor (also don't forget to top off the master cylinder (if needed) and replace the cap). Once I backed out of the driveway and had no brakes until I pumped them three or four times - got my attention. E-brake worked.
I started using the pin removal method and am now using the caliper removal method. Both work. I think the calipers removal is a little easer and faster for me. I can swap wheels and a set of padlets in about 1.5 hours. Longer if I am cleaning and detailing in the wheel arch.
Don't forget to bed your new pads (follow the manufacture's guidelines).
Of you are going from one brand of pads to another, you may have to clean/sand/resurface the rotor to eliminate squealing. If you are using new rotors, clean them well (brake cleaner and/or hot soapy water) before install to remove the anti-rust coating.
If you like to work on your own vehicle, you might want to invest in the GM service manual, that I sell for $149.99. It gives you installation instructions, wiring diagrams, torque specs, etc.
__________________ Phone: 484-334-8833 Owner of CULTRAG Performance
If you like to work on your own vehicle, you might want to invest in the GM service manual, that I sell for $149.99. It gives you installation instructions, wiring diagrams, torque specs, etc.
I got my GM service manual from Gene. It's great - three volume set, lots of pictures, good step-by-step for most work. Worth the money.
There's nothing to it, I just did it. 2 bolts on each caliper, push the pistons in, clip out the old pads-clip in the new pads.....One of the easiest pad changes I've ever done, did all 4 in about 45 mins. Good luck !
Carnac - Thanks for the thorough how-to. Changed a lot of motorcycle, Brembo and others, pads - looking forward to doing my own before track days. Let you know how they work at the end of the main straight. I'll check out Gene's manuals too. Cliff
There's nothing to it, I just did it. 2 bolts on each caliper, push the pistons in, clip out the old pads-clip in the new pads.....One of the easiest pad changes I've ever done, did all 4 in about 45 mins. Good luck !
I've got to agree...takes longer to get the car up on stands than it does to change the pads. If you have done brake work before, you will need no instruction - at least I didn't. Easiest brake job I have ever done. Mustangs should be that easy!!!
There are two ways to replace Z06 brake padlets. One is to remove the caliper and the other is to remove the padlet locater pins and pull the padlet out of the top of the caliper.
I've changed pads both ways. If you go with single piece pads instead of padlets, you will have to remove the caliper.
To remove the padlets without removing the caliper, you have to take out at least three of the four pins (per side) on the front and two of the three pins on the rear. My 08 Z06 has Torx head pins (#45 or (#46 if you can find one for a tighter fit) Torx driver). Somewhere GM went from hex to Torx. I think it was in 2007. Some people had problems breaking allen wrenches on the hex pins. The Torx seem better. All new OEM pads come with new Torx pins.
I use a #45 Torx socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. If the pins have been in for a long time they can be difficult to remove. Once they break free, they turn very easily - so watch your knuckles :-) I make sure that I hold the Torx in all the way and push hard in on the pin as I break the pin free. The same would go for the hex head pins. This helps reduce the chance of rounding off the Torx or hex head.
Once the pins are out, the padlet can be pulled up with a pair of pliers (they have a little tab on the top). I sometimes have to use a broad screwdriver to break the padlet free of the piston (does not take too much pressure - just a bit of a twist on the screwdriver). Be careful about the caliper paint.
There are two ways to allow the brake fluid to be pushed back when you push the pucks in... (1) is to open the master cylinder cap and allow the fluid to push up there (make sure to remove a little fluid if it is full at the start) or (2) is to crack the bleeder nipple at the caliper as you push the puck back. The second way is better - it gets rid of the nasty fluid at the caliper instead of pushing it into the brake lines. My friend does his this way. I usually just push the calipers in and then do a quick pressure bleed (I use a Motive pressure bleeder - works great - about $50) at each wheel as I go.
I've used several items to push the pucks in - the rubber coated handle end of a pair of Craftsman pliers (slip joint style) worked pretty good. The biggest problem is that as you push on in, the other two want to push out. I found that putting in the new padlets as I went along worked - that is, pull the thee old padlets, push the lowest puck back in, insert the new padlet, then push the next puck in, insert the second new padlet, and finally do the third. Put one locater pin in after each padlet install. They should go in easily (I use a VERY small amount of anti-seize on the pin threads (I use hi-temp LocTite Copper anti-seize)). No anti-seize is better than the wrong kind or too much. Be very careful - it is easy to cross thread or try to force the pin in with the padlet not aligned - this can bend the pin. If you are using new GM OEM pads, they will come with new pins. You can use them or not. The pins are only torqued to 27 ft/lbs (I think - I will have to check to be sure). It is not a real high value.
If you are using GM OEM replacement padlets, there will be four with medal pad wear indicator tabs. These should go on the top of the front brakes, and the bottom of the rears (trailing edges) - check the old ones as you remove them for reference.
Most aftermarket pads or padlets do not have wear indicator tabs.
Other than the tabs, all of the padlets, all 20, front and rear are the same and interchangeable.
The other way to change padlets (and the way you have to change one piece pads or if you are replacing rotors) is to remove the caliper. There are two large bolts in the back side of the caliper that holds them on. Just remove both. Be careful not to let the caliper fall or be held up by the flex line. I use a piece of coat hanger to hold it up while working on it.
Once the caliper is off, you can pop all the padlets off (no need to remove the locater pins). Keep the anti-rattle clip/spring in place. Push the pucks in (I've found that three mid size Stanley quick grip bar clamps (the ones that you just squeeze to tighten and have nice soft yellow pads on the jaw parts - work great). I can send you a picture later if you are not familiar. These might even work with the caliper in-place, but I haven't tried them that way yet. Now that you have the padlets out, three of the pucks pushed back in, just load the new padlets or pad. Make sure that the padlet metal tab is pointing out away from the center of the hub and that the friction material is facing in (sounds kind of dumb, but it is possible to install the padlets upside down or wrong side in).
Now do the other side of the caliper the same way. Slide the loaded caliper back over the rotor (hopefully you've pushed the pucks back in far enough) and re-install the caliper bolts. The torque is pretty high, 129 ft/lbs I think. I use a little blue LockTite on the threads and tighten the bolts firmly with a 1/2" ratchet.
Same procedure for all four wheels.
If the rotor retaining clips are still on your car - (little thin star washers over one or two studs on each wheel) remove them and discard. They only can cause problems (the service manual also says to remove and discard). They can keep the wheel from mating fully to the hub (esp with aftermarket wheels) and cause a vibration at speed,
Put your wheels back on and torque the bolts to 100 ft/lb - this torque value is important - otherwise it is easy to warp a rotor when hot.
One last thing - be careful when you move the car - you will need to pump the brakes a few times to keep the pedal from going to the floor (also don't forget to top off the master cylinder (if needed) and replace the cap). Once I backed out of the driveway and had no brakes until I pumped them three or four times - got my attention. E-brake worked.
I started using the pin removal method and am now using the caliper removal method. Both work. I think the calipers removal is a little easer and faster for me. I can swap wheels and a set of padlets in about 1.5 hours. Longer if I am cleaning and detailing in the wheel arch.
Don't forget to bed your new pads (follow the manufacture's guidelines).
Of you are going from one brand of pads to another, you may have to clean/sand/resurface the rotor to eliminate squealing. If you are using new rotors, clean them well (brake cleaner and/or hot soapy water) before install to remove the anti-rust coating.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Cheers - Jim
In furtherance to a most informative write-up, and however it may concern those interested in maintaining proper torque specs, find the following as recently recovered from a box of OEM brake pads declaring value for the pins.
Incidentally, 30 Newton meters is equal to 22.13 foot-pounds torque. 1 Newton meter is equal to 0.73756 foot-pounds.
Pad Kit – 19153019: front
Pad Kit – 19153020: rear
You scanned paper shows "40 Nm +/- 4 Nm" that works out to 29.5 ft-pounds. The GM service manual says 30 ft-pounds.
I've found changing the two main caliper pins easier than the pad pins. Quick and easy.
The 30Nm, upon a more thorough review, was a poor recollection on my part referencing David Farmer’s torque specification herein suggesting 31Nm (23ft/lb) for the caliper guide pins bolt(s). It appears yours (27ft/lb) is the better value when taking the tolerance of +/- 4Nm into account to GM’s requirement. Again, nice write-up.
Thank you for this post.
I just completed my first brake pads replacement using the caliper removal approach.
The instructions where great.
The only think I had to figure out was trying to keep "the anti-rattle clip/spring in place". I found I had to remove them, replace the pads, then put the clip/spring back in place. I'm not sure if that is because I am replacing the padlets with 1 piece pads...
Thanks again.
Thank you for this post.
I just completed my first brake pads replacement using the caliper removal approach.
The instructions where great.
The only think I had to figure out was trying to keep "the anti-rattle clip/spring in place". I found I had to remove them, replace the pads, then put the clip/spring back in place. I'm not sure if that is because I am replacing the padlets with 1 piece pads...
Thanks again.
On the anti-rattle clip, if you unhook the center part from the caliper recess and move it out part way, you can put the single pads in and have the spring tabs go over the backing plate. Some times if you take the anti-rattle clip off and try after the pad is in place it is hard to get the rattle tabs over the backing plate and the clip could contact the rotor.
Tonight I just installed Cobalt XR-2 track pads and they are configured to be used without the anti-rattle clip.
05-24-2010, 04:44 PM
Anyone know where I can get step-by-step instructions to change my brake pads??
