[Z06] DIY - Accurate Oil Pressure Logging (aka checking for oil starvation)
05-13-2009, 02:36 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
DIY - Accurate Oil Pressure Logging (aka checking for oil starvation)
This is a very easy do-it-yourself project... it'll take 2-3 hours. You must have a data logging system installed in your car for this to be useful (i.e. Race Technology, Racelogic, Traqmate, etc)
My Oil Pressure Results HERE
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06.
Parts / Tools
* Data Logging System - I use a Traqmate
* Oil pressure sensor (0-100psi), linear, with a response time <50 ms. -- I used AEM P/N 30-2130-100 Info HERE
- I do not recommend the AIM (VDO) sensor... it is very non-linear over temperature; No experience with the AIM (MSI) sensor.
* M16x1.5 to 1/8 NPT adapter (or whatever thread your oil pressure sensor is, if not 1/8 NPT).
- I used Autometer p/n 2268 Info HERE -- Tons of other adapters HERE
* Hex driver: 8mm
* Standard and 'Crows-foot' sockets
* Suitable wrenches / extensions
* Teflon tape (I used regular white tape, but the Yellow Tape may work better for this application)
* Wiring (I used 18 gauge)
* Heat shielding material and aluminized tape as needed
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful, the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Install Steps
Note that there are two way to install the sensor. A 'Simple' method and a more 'Thorough' method.
In the 'Simple' method, you attach the sensor directly to the block. This is a simpler install, has fewer adapters/connections, but the vibration from the block will shorten the life of the sensor. The vendor indicated that mounted this way, the sensor may only last "a season or two", which was fine for me as i wanted to check for oil starvation at my local tracks and this would take less than a season.
In the more 'Thorough' method, you attach an adapter/bushing to the block, attach the sensor to the frame or firewall and run suitable hose between the two. This isolates the sensor from the vibration/heat of the block
I used the 'Simple' method.
Step 1) Verify the oil pressure sensor works
Attach sensor to your data logger, turn logger on, and verify the 0psi voltage reading. (Or 0psi resistance if it's a resistive sensor.)
My sensor spec is 0.5v at 0psi, it showed 0.48v
Step 2) Raise car, remove driver's side front wheel.
It's helpful to remove the caliper and rotor too.
Step 3) Locate suitable oil port on the block
(Thanks Randy @ DRM for the 3 option pictures below and his help
)
Option 1:
Option 2:
Option 3:
I used Option 3... it was the easiest to get to. And there is plenty of clearance in all directions to account for engine movement under torque.
This view is looking into the driver's side front wheel well, at the side of the block. The top red circle is the oil port to be used. (The bottom red circle if where you could mount the oil sensor if you wanted to use the 'Thorough' Method).
Step 4) Remove the factory oil port plug
Draining the oil is optional, i did it both ways, and you'll spill 3-4 oz. of oil with or without oil in the motor.
Use 8mm hex driver with extension to remove plug:
Wrench in place:
Plug removed:
Oil spillage:
Factory plug (no washer) vs. aftermarket adapter (with supplied crush washer)
Step 5) Attach wiring / Apply heat shield / Apply Teflon tape
For the wiring harness, I used heat shield tape and then aluminized tape over that.
The vendor indicated not to shield the sensor body, so it could dissipate heat.
I applied Teflon tape to the sensor, leaving the initial 2-3 threads bare. I used white tape, but the Yellow Tape may work better.
I was careful that nothing touched the sensor end (even though it doesn't look like it in the picture):
Step 6) Attach M16 adapter to block
Use standard socket with extension to attach adapter.
I did not use Teflon tape on the adapter.
The instructions say to tighten until the washer is flattened.
I tightened very slowly and checked after each torque value. At 32 ft-lbs it was not flat; at 34 ft-lbs it was flat.
You can see the washer if you look up, at an angle, from under the front of the car, between the leaf spring and the oil pan.
Step 7) Attach sensor to adapter
Use 'crows foot' socket with extension to tighten. There is NO way to get a box wrench in there... go buy a crows foot socket set!
I tightened until firm... There were about 2 thread stills showing... but the sensor was firmly attached:
Step 8) Start car, verify no oil leaks
With the car in the air, start car, verify you have oil pressure. Verify no oil leaks.
You can look at the adapter/sensor (step 5) and verify no oil seepage; the Teflon tape should still be white.
Step 9) Attach wiring to sensor and route to data logger
I routed from sensor through side 'panel', through door seal, and into the interior. And secured with tie-wraps.
Eventually, i will route the wiring through the firewall somewhere.
Step 10)Lower car, take car for test drive, verify no oil leaks
The first time you move the car... you may get a little oil on the ground... this may be the oil that spilled out in step 3 and got trapped somewhere. (I saw a few dribbles on the ground, but saw no leaks from the adapter/sensor).
Step 11) Set oil pressure high/low voltage values
You'll need to enter the sensor high/low voltages into your data logger. Note that these values WILL change with high oil temp. I was able to get the car to ~205 on the street to set baseline values, and i adjusted them while on track with temps at ~260.
Step 12) That's it!
Now go log your oil pressures and post your results!
My Oil Pressure Results HERE
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06.
Parts / Tools
* Data Logging System - I use a Traqmate
* Oil pressure sensor (0-100psi), linear, with a response time <50 ms. -- I used AEM P/N 30-2130-100 Info HERE
- I do not recommend the AIM (VDO) sensor... it is very non-linear over temperature; No experience with the AIM (MSI) sensor.
* M16x1.5 to 1/8 NPT adapter (or whatever thread your oil pressure sensor is, if not 1/8 NPT).
- I used Autometer p/n 2268 Info HERE -- Tons of other adapters HERE
* Hex driver: 8mm
* Standard and 'Crows-foot' sockets
* Suitable wrenches / extensions
* Teflon tape (I used regular white tape, but the Yellow Tape may work better for this application)
* Wiring (I used 18 gauge)
* Heat shielding material and aluminized tape as needed
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful, the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Install Steps
Note that there are two way to install the sensor. A 'Simple' method and a more 'Thorough' method.
In the 'Simple' method, you attach the sensor directly to the block. This is a simpler install, has fewer adapters/connections, but the vibration from the block will shorten the life of the sensor. The vendor indicated that mounted this way, the sensor may only last "a season or two", which was fine for me as i wanted to check for oil starvation at my local tracks and this would take less than a season.
In the more 'Thorough' method, you attach an adapter/bushing to the block, attach the sensor to the frame or firewall and run suitable hose between the two. This isolates the sensor from the vibration/heat of the block
I used the 'Simple' method.
Step 1) Verify the oil pressure sensor works
Attach sensor to your data logger, turn logger on, and verify the 0psi voltage reading. (Or 0psi resistance if it's a resistive sensor.)
My sensor spec is 0.5v at 0psi, it showed 0.48v
Step 2) Raise car, remove driver's side front wheel.
It's helpful to remove the caliper and rotor too.
Step 3) Locate suitable oil port on the block
(Thanks Randy @ DRM for the 3 option pictures below and his help
)Option 1:
Option 2:
Option 3:
I used Option 3... it was the easiest to get to. And there is plenty of clearance in all directions to account for engine movement under torque.
This view is looking into the driver's side front wheel well, at the side of the block. The top red circle is the oil port to be used. (The bottom red circle if where you could mount the oil sensor if you wanted to use the 'Thorough' Method).
Step 4) Remove the factory oil port plug
Draining the oil is optional, i did it both ways, and you'll spill 3-4 oz. of oil with or without oil in the motor.
Use 8mm hex driver with extension to remove plug:
Wrench in place:
Plug removed:
Oil spillage:
Factory plug (no washer) vs. aftermarket adapter (with supplied crush washer)
Step 5) Attach wiring / Apply heat shield / Apply Teflon tape
For the wiring harness, I used heat shield tape and then aluminized tape over that.
The vendor indicated not to shield the sensor body, so it could dissipate heat.
I applied Teflon tape to the sensor, leaving the initial 2-3 threads bare. I used white tape, but the Yellow Tape may work better.
I was careful that nothing touched the sensor end (even though it doesn't look like it in the picture):
Step 6) Attach M16 adapter to block
Use standard socket with extension to attach adapter.
I did not use Teflon tape on the adapter.
The instructions say to tighten until the washer is flattened.
I tightened very slowly and checked after each torque value. At 32 ft-lbs it was not flat; at 34 ft-lbs it was flat.
You can see the washer if you look up, at an angle, from under the front of the car, between the leaf spring and the oil pan.
Step 7) Attach sensor to adapter
Use 'crows foot' socket with extension to tighten. There is NO way to get a box wrench in there... go buy a crows foot socket set!
I tightened until firm... There were about 2 thread stills showing... but the sensor was firmly attached:
Step 8) Start car, verify no oil leaks
With the car in the air, start car, verify you have oil pressure. Verify no oil leaks.
You can look at the adapter/sensor (step 5) and verify no oil seepage; the Teflon tape should still be white.
Step 9) Attach wiring to sensor and route to data logger
I routed from sensor through side 'panel', through door seal, and into the interior. And secured with tie-wraps.
Eventually, i will route the wiring through the firewall somewhere.
Step 10)Lower car, take car for test drive, verify no oil leaks
The first time you move the car... you may get a little oil on the ground... this may be the oil that spilled out in step 3 and got trapped somewhere. (I saw a few dribbles on the ground, but saw no leaks from the adapter/sensor).
Step 11) Set oil pressure high/low voltage values
You'll need to enter the sensor high/low voltages into your data logger. Note that these values WILL change with high oil temp. I was able to get the car to ~205 on the street to set baseline values, and i adjusted them while on track with temps at ~260.
Step 12) That's it!
Now go log your oil pressures and post your results!
Last edited by Dreamin; 05-13-2009 at 01:53 PM.
05-13-2009, 02:31 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
05-23-2009, 11:17 PM
#10
Racer
As an alternative, HPTuners has a cable that allows you to log to it directly (not a laptop) from your PCM. If you only log a few variables at a time, its refresh rate is very quick.
I'm uncertain of the response time of a C6Z's oil pressure sender, but I know the C5's is much quicker than the DIC or gauge cluster (it should react in 0.3 seconds at the very least). Someone with an Accusump should be able to test this with the motor off, by logging while cycling the valve.
I'm uncertain of the response time of a C6Z's oil pressure sender, but I know the C5's is much quicker than the DIC or gauge cluster (it should react in 0.3 seconds at the very least). Someone with an Accusump should be able to test this with the motor off, by logging while cycling the valve.
05-24-2009, 03:32 AM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Good advice
But having reviewed traqmate logs from the stock oil pressure sensor... it appears to respond in 0.25 to 0.30 seconds. This may not be fast enough to catch the pressure drop spikes i'm seeing. The pressure can drop and recover in <0.2 seconds... in some cases in <0.1 seconds. So using the stock sensor with a logging system... the pressure can drop and recover so fast you'd NEVER log the drop.
But If people don't want to plumb in an aftermarket sensor... logging data from the stock sensor (to a data logger or HPtuners) is still better than nothing
But having reviewed traqmate logs from the stock oil pressure sensor... it appears to respond in 0.25 to 0.30 seconds. This may not be fast enough to catch the pressure drop spikes i'm seeing. The pressure can drop and recover in <0.2 seconds... in some cases in <0.1 seconds. So using the stock sensor with a logging system... the pressure can drop and recover so fast you'd NEVER log the drop.
But If people don't want to plumb in an aftermarket sensor... logging data from the stock sensor (to a data logger or HPtuners) is still better than nothing
07-20-2012, 01:28 PM
#13
Safety Car
ANyone know if the same ports to tap into are available on the LS3 block?
I'd like to do this with my Traqmate.
Dreamin: your link to the actual sensor is dead btw
I'd like to do this with my Traqmate.
Dreamin: your link to the actual sensor is dead btw
07-20-2012, 03:34 PM
#14
Former Vendor
03-02-2013, 01:52 PM
#15
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2008
Posts: 164
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I installed the Lingenfelter modded oil tank, the Aviaid tank insert, and this oil pressure sensor so I can verify my oil pressure is good.
Looks like AEM reorganized their web site, so here are the new links to the oil pressure sensor info:
Sensor
Data Sheet
Thanks to Dreamin for posting this excellent DIY
Looks like AEM reorganized their web site, so here are the new links to the oil pressure sensor info:
Sensor
Data Sheet
Thanks to Dreamin for posting this excellent DIY
Last edited by Memphomaniac; 05-09-2013 at 10:36 PM.
12-25-2013, 01:23 AM
#16
Cruising
Member Since: Aug 2011
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Thank you Dreamin for the pictorial and description. THough I don't have a Corvette, I do have an Ultima GTR with an LS7 crate motor installed and need to move the oil pressure sensor from next to the oil filter where it reads very high to another spot on the block. The pix illustrating some of the key tapping points is just what I've been looking for.
Thank you again,
T
Thank you again,
T
01-03-2014, 02:31 PM
#17
Drifting
