805Z06

Here is a write-up showing how to swap out brake pads for Brembo GT Monoblock setup.

Time required: 20-35 minutes per wheel. Time will vary depending on tools (car lift, air tools, and ideal tools for calipers) and level of experience.

Tools and material needed: car jack, car stand, torque wrench to remove and tighten wheels, #19 socket for torque wrench, #10 Allen wrench, rubber mallet (or similar), pin remover (or screwdriver, nail, small Allen wrench), C-clamp (or similar), small pieced of cardboard, clean rag, degreaser, and new brake pads.

Step 1)
Remove wheel.



Step 2)
Remove caliper.

A # 10 Allen tool is required to remove the two bolts holding the caliper.



Once you have the two bolts loose, slide caliper off the rotor.







Place the caliper onto a small stand. I used a small cardboard box. You don’t want to rest the caliper on the floor because the brake fluid line would be extended too far.




Step 3)
Remove one of the two pins holding down the brake pads.

[The front 6-piston caliper has two pins holding in the brake pads just like the 4 piston caliper.]



It is recommended to use a rubber mallet to tap out the pin. I did not have one, so I used a combination of tools (hammer & the Allen wrench).




Once the pin goes inside about a half inch, you will need to use another tool. You might get lucky by grabbing the pin and pulling it out. Most likely it is snuggled tight. Use a pin remover or a screwdriver, or anything in that nature to put through the pinhole and tap it out all the way.





Step 4)
Remove spring plate.

This is the plate that keeps the pads separate and applies pressure to keep them in place. With the first pin removed, taking out the spring plate is very easy. Just pull it out.





Step 5)
Remove the second pin.

Use the same strategy as step 3.




Step 6)
Push pistons back into caliper.

Once you have both pins out, remove the two brake pads. They should come out very easily.



With the pads removed, take a look at the pistons. You will see them coming out a bit. The more brake pad wears the further the pistons come out.



To compress the pistons back, do one side at a time. Put one of the old brake pads into the caliper. Use a C-clamp and compress the pad until its firm. Don’t put too much pressure either; moderate pressure should do the job.





Here is a tip: use a small piece of cardboard paper on the pained caliper side, so while using the C-clamp you won’t scratch the paint.

Release the C-clamp and remove the brake pad. Check to see if the pistons have been compressed. You might need to repeat the process at a different spot to get all the pistons compressed.



Repeat the same process for the other side of the caliper getting all 4 or 6 pistons (depending on actual caliper) compressed.






SEE NEXT POST FOR THE REST OF THE PROCESS. SORRY BUT ONLY 25 PICTURES ALLOWED PER POST.

805Z06

Step 7)
Clean the rotor.

On the Brembo instructions it says to wipe clean the rotor with a degreaser products. I applied a little bit of an organic degreaser and did a quick wipe.





Step 8)
Place two new brake pads into caliper.

Since there are no pins in yet, the pads will be loose. Make sure you do not put them in backwards. The brake pad surface (rough side) has to face the rotor.



Step 9)
Insert one pin.

Take the pointed side of the pin and insert it through the first caliper hole. Continue through the two brake pads holes and into the last hole of the caliper. The pointed side of the pin should be facing the wheel.

You will need to tap the pin through the holes. So use a rubber mallet or some tool for taping it.



Make sure the pin is inserted completely. Use a small pointed device to tap the flat side of the pin. Brembo instructions state that you will hear a metallic sound when it is in all the way.



Step 10)
Insert the spring plate and insert second pin.

Place the spring plate in and under the first pin. The other side of the spring plate needs to be held down since the second pin will go over it. So while tapping in the pin (just like the first pin) hold down the spring plate until the second pin goes through. Make sure the second pin is secured all the way.







This is the process used for the rear caliper. The front caliper is similar but the spring plate is held down by only one pin and the other side of the spring plate is held down by the caliper.

Step 11)
Re-check pistons.

The pistons might have moved out of the caliper during the pin installation. Take a look and see if the brake pads are flat on the caliper. If not, push the pistons back.

You might not need to use a C-clamp, I was able to move the pistons back by hand. There is no need to remove the pins to compress the pistons again.

Step 12)
Slide caliper onto rotor.

The calipers should easily slide on to the rotor. If not redo step #10.


Step 13)
Carefully tighten the two mounting bolts.


Align the bolts to mounting holes. Try to get them hooked by turning the bolts by hand and adjusting the caliper position if necessary. You don’t want to force the bolts into the caliper mounting holes; this could cause some unnecessary damage, so take your time.

I partially tightened the top and bottom bolt. I rotated back and forth until both bolts were tight. You want to make sure the bolts are fully secure; so keep turning until you can no longer turn by hand (within reason).

You should also do a visual check to make sure the caliper has been fully tightened to the mounting spot.


Note: The pictures show the rear setup. The front setup is very similar but a little different (see step 10 as noted for example). The process is still the same.

805Z06

Here is a pic of the race pads and street pads. (street pads are the new looking ones)..

oh ya... good bye squeaks



Thanks Bowmanized for the hookup and fast delivery.

stylinexpat

Nice Hani Looks like you went through them pads pretty quickly

PS: I always prefer to use surgical gloves I plan on getting a car pretty soon as well.

805Z06

Gloves, yes. My hands are still black from two days ago , other than a few cuts, it wasn't that bad.

I thought you would have your ride soon. Are you getting a Z, GTR, AMG, M????

Short-Throw

Why remove the calipers? You can eliminate the C-clamp step by using a flat-head screwdriver as a lever and compressing the pistons using the old pads before removing.

It shouldn't take more than ten minutes per corner to change front pads at the track with these calipers.

If you're doing this after an event it's very thorough!

Overall a great write up!

Surgical gloves work great unless you're working with a hot car.

805Z06

Mike,
I didn't think about it that way. I thought there might be too much pressure on the rotor pushing the pin back in completely. I guess I might give that a try next time.

stylinexpat

[QUOTE=Short-Throw;1566765938]Why remove the calipers? You can eliminate the C-clamp step by using a flat-head screwdriver as a lever and compressing the pistons using the old pads before removing.

It shouldn't take more than ten minutes per corner to change front pads at the track with these calipers.

If you're doing this after an event it's very thorough!

Overall a great write up!



Surgical gloves work great unless you're working with a hot car.[/QUOTE]

Agreed, I like to use them when working with brakes. Cleaning your hands after can be a bitc* if you don't wear surgical gloves.

stylinexpat

You're in the restaurant business so having clean hands is very important and that stuff can leave your hands black for 3-4 days after.

What do you think I should get? The Z,GTR, AMG, M or 135i ? Been thinking hard about it recently. I'll be in town in a couple of weeks time from now.

Frenchican

Hani,
Excellent write up. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this.

Mike,
So if we tap out the pins, remove the spring clip with the calipers on the car, then pry the pads outward to push the pistons in, drop in the new pads, replace spring plate and pins and we're done? Cool...

805Z06

GTR = practical & fast

805Z06

Dreamin

Great write-up & pics... Thanks you 805Z06.

Dreamin

You do have to remove the front caliper... at least the 6-piston GT Monoblock model... as the bridge goes all the way across:

stylinexpat

That looks nice..

Dreamin

I'm going the other way this weekend: street pads to new PFC 01 race pads... I'll post a review as soon as I get some track time on those pads

stylinexpat

At MSRP it would be worth considering but I won't be suckered into paying more then MSRP for it. How's your Z so far? Any major problems? You hanging on to it for a while?

805Z06

MSRP should come eventually. The Z is good, only problems is too much modding, which can be a PITA...

Dirty Howie

Hani

Great write ..... I will save this incase I ever get Brembo's

Ya gotta wear gloves for brake work!!!!! Stop by the office and I will give you a box or wait till I see you


DH

805Z06

:d :d