TFAST4U

( You can go to MY last post in this thread on page 9 for the out come )


I did a search for " C6 Z06 Oil Pump " and came up with nothing.

I read here on the forums each week but do not post up much at all as I have nothing to say that has not been said already. I can say that I did buy my C6 Z06 because of a close friend letting me drive his, reading here on the forum, and reading about in in the mags!

The reason I am posting is I own a C6 Z06 with 11k miles. The oil pump failed and has 4 psi.

On Monday January 29, 2007 the car went to the dealer. The dealer has not called me 1 time.

My question is to the fellow owners of the C6 Z06 is. Is there others out there with an oil pump going bad? If so can you post a link to this problem.

The dealer is substandard at best. I had to really press for a loaner car. Thedealer never washes the car ever or call me when the car is done when in for service for an oil change, roof replacement, clutch pack in rear-end, or 1/2 shaft replacement. My car has been serviced for all the above because of the posts I read here on the corvetteforum. NOT BECAUSE the Z06 had a problem. I just wanted to follow up with the TSB reports I read here.

I'm not bashing GM, I just wanted to see what you thought and what you think I should do with the oil pump problem.

Thank you for your help in advance.

allanlaw

If they've had your car for two weeks and haven't called you, I think you should probably call them and find out wazup, no?

TFAST4U

I called 2 times and l/m for the svc adv. Sorry, in my post I failed to write that.

outnumbered

If they won't return your calls, I would show up to see wazzup!

After your car is complete to your satisfaction, then complain to whomever.

HRTBRCR

you are getting a new motor dude...try and get extra warranty and
dont dare do any mods...bet your bearings are toast...wanna bet?
total BS...from a new car...disgusting

Night Enforcer

Sorry to hear about your hassle. I suggest you go visit the dealership.

By the way, don't ever-ever-ever let a dealership wash your car. You are asking for a headache. The guys drop the rags on the pavement in the wash bay and pick them up and continue washing or drying with the sand or whatever is now on the rag. I own a number of vehicles including an H1 Hummer and I won't even let them wash it after an oil change or service.

TFAST4U

You are right to say the main and rod bearings would be toast with only 4psi


Hope no one has had this problem with there C6 Z06, but if you or some one here did have an oil pupm fail I would like a link to that post.

As a BIG fan of the C6 Z06 forum I will do as you guys would and keep you posted on what the next step is, and that is to make call # 3 to the dealer.

TFAST4U

I never thought of it that way. Great point! I guess there low lvl of service is somthing that worked out for me. How about that

GForceSS

We need a Good/Bad dealer list

TFAST4U

Well I called the dealer for the third time since Jan 2007, and left another msg for the service writer. My mgs is as follows.

" Mr. _________ This is __________. I own a C6 Z06 that has been in for svc since Jan 2007 for low oil PSI. This is the third msg I have left in ref to my car. Please call me on the status on my car. I can be reached at ---_---_----"

This msg was left at 11:43 EST

TFAST4U

Here is a link
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1558957763 to the same problem I am having with the Failed Oil Pump.

This is a quote from a Member here on the forum, his user name is allanlaw.

" It just so depends on the dealership. I arrived at the dealership with my Z on a flatbed from a nearby track, wearing my racing suit and shoes, car wearing its harness bar and harness, fire extinguisher, track wheels and tires, covered in track rubber, inoperative. They gave me the best rental car on the lot (Denali) for free, and had it fixed the next day with airfreighted parts. I invited the service writer to join me some time at the track to see what it would do - actually, when it was fixed and I picked it up, I took him for a little ride in the nearby hills to see how it rode. He mentioned to me at one point that the freeze frame data had indicated a speed of 117mph at the time of failure. I said "well, I would hope it can go a lot faster than that" and he laughed.

That's just the reality of the situation. Getting back to the OP's situation, IMO the oil pressure failure problem is NOT something that only crops up in "abused" cars. I have talked to (and know personally) a couple of victims of blown Z engines due to oil pressure failure and believe it is truly a random event. All had their engines replaced under warranty. That is all we can expect GM to do, but we should expect them to do it without a lot of fussing UNLESS there is objective evidence of abuse, i.e., freeze frame data showing the failure occurred at 9000 rpm, etc., not some rubber around the wheel wells. "



His refrence to several C6 Z06 cars having the same problem. It looks so far to be a random thing.

Well I just hope the Service Advisor calls me back today. I would really like to know what is going on with my car

NORTY

2 weeks is long enough for a new engine,and not communicating with you is unprofessional. They should be giving you updates thoughout the process. You may want to talk directly with GM on this. keep accurate phone records if you need them later. Document everything.

TFAST4U

Thanks NORTY, I will continue to do so. Thanks for you help guys . I will keep you up to date. No return call from the Service Writer. I wonder why he is called a Service Writer if I'm not getting service?

allanlaw

See the other thread - I was not referring to an oil pump problem with the other cars, but an internal engine issue that causes an oiling failure leading to bearing failure. Replacing an oil pump should be a snap.

TFAST4U

ok, I thought you were refering to the oil pump. Just wondering, what was the internal engine issue that was causing an oiling failure? I thought that would of been the pump, sorry.

Maxx Schlick

If the dealer shop can not be competent or trust worthy enough to even wash the car without doing damage by rubbing sand over the paint (which I have NO DOUBT they will do, without hesitation) how can you possibly trust them to do anything as important as put oil back in after they drain the old out and then cross thread the plugs back in. If you want anything done right you have to do it yourself.

TTRotary

Allan, I think these are one and the same problem, and we finally have the source of the failures, the pump. Forhamilton and Andy B both reported abnormally low pressures, and lost motors. Fried bearings are merely the symptom, IMO.

allanlaw

The oil pump is external to the engine. The internal issue is a GM secret.

TTRotary

Is this something you have been told?

TFAST4U

Well I recived a call back from the service advisor right around 7pm EST.

The msg left on v/m was " we are replacing the pump. "

I just want to write that this is just sad. I beleave the motor should be replaced. Just my .02 on 4psi. Just sad how this is playing out.

I did some more serching on line about the pump and came up with some links.

Here is a link for you guys that want more info on the oil pump and how it works. This is what I have so far. I hope this may help in some way

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/.../photo_17.html



" The LS7's oil pump is really two pumps in one: a 0.95ci pump for supply (the same spec as the LS2) and a 1.41ci rotor for oil scavenging. The scavenge pump needs more capacity because it will consequently pick up air along with oil. "

And another good read about the oiling system

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec..._build_center/

" At Station five the LS7 gets its crank sprocket. In order to avoid damaging the thrust bearing by hitting the sprocket onto the crank, GM uses 2000-psi of hydraulic pressure to install the sprocket onto the crank. Next the motor gets the cam sprocket, timing chain and the nylon chain dampener. As we talked about in our April LS7 engine story the LS7 uses a specific duel impeller pump. It is actually two pumps in one and handles engine oiling and scavenging duties. The impeller notches have to be lined up, again they have a custom tool for this that you can see in the picture. "

and

" Here you can see the fixture plate that is used to make sure the oil pump and front cover are both perfectly even with the bottom of the block. You can also see one of the many nylon bolt-order templates that are used throughout the build at different stations. After every operation an orange mark is made on either the part or on a specific location on the outside of the block. It's just one more way to double check that nothing is missed. Next up the dry-sump oil pan is installed. The pan is an engineering marvel and makes for a very low-profile package. Installing this in a g-Machine should not be very hard. However due to the way the pan is made there will be no notching of the pan possible. The LS7 also uses a new internal bypass oil filter (PN PF48). "

and

I can say I can NOT take credit for this next info I have. It is from another web page and I cut and paist it here on this thread. Great info and alot more info than above. Who ever did the reserch did a good job. Thanks

Quote from another forum:

" LS7 Dry Sump System revealed:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

See the following pics:

External Oil Tank:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024314

Internal Oil Tank:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024313

Oil Pan Right Side:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024310

Oil Pan Left Side:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024308

Oil Pump External:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024307

Oil Pump Internal:
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024311

Complete System: (less Engine Oil Cooler)
http://gm.wieck.com/forms/gm/previewpage?024295

The system is driven by single, but instead; 2 stage, Gerotor pump off the front crankshaft snout as in the LS1/LS2/LS6. This is accomplished with 2 seperate internal channels which are evident on the pump face plates. You can see the keyed drives on the External Pump shot and can see both internal gerotor mechanisms in the Internal View which are regulated by a single pressure spring. Notice how the single large oval sump inlet is on the left side (driver side) of the pump and the reservoir inlet/outlet is on the right side (pass. side).

Notice that the reservoir inlet and outlet bosses are both at the bottom (bottom right side of pan and bottom of reservoir). The inlet is not at the top and entering on the side of the reservoir as most dry sump tanks to swirl and deair the oil. But you can see the inlet pipe rises to the top center of the tank internally and "spills" the oil at the top center. You can also see deairing baffles and seperators in the tank lid. The cylinder volume of oil fluid will feed the tank outlet and gravity/pressure feed to the pump inlet boss.

I am assuming that the pump outlet that feeds to the pan outlet will feed the engine oil cooler and then back to the reservoir inlet. I am also assuming that the internal pump outlet will feed to the oil filter and then the engine priority main gallery. Notice that the Filter boss is in the same position as previous LS Gen IV engines. "


I will continue to keep you all informed on where it goes from here.