[Z06] How To: build a quieter C6Z
#21
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Originally Posted by SAXN8R
For us die-hard performance at all cost enthusiasts, do you think you could get an estimate on the weight of the materials used? It would be nice to see what the trade off/weight savings are. I can't imagine it would be much weight.
Corey
Corey
#22
Melting Slicks
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Originally Posted by treynor
Absolutely -- I'm keeping a log of how much material I use, and will include that as part of the conclusions along with dB values at idle, cruise and WOT.
#23
Racer
Thank you for taking the time to show us this mod, I love my VY Z the way it is. but this is a mod that i was going to do. So Thanks again R8C Z06 Where are you geting the materials from?
#24
Great post, I'm sure many Z06 owners will appreciate the time it's going to take to document.
One thing to be carefull of is the added thickness the sound absorbing materials will add. I once did the same thing on an old car. I ended up having difficulty putting the seats back in and they rubbed against the center console too. Good luck and I'm sure you'll be pleased with the results.
One thing to be carefull of is the added thickness the sound absorbing materials will add. I once did the same thing on an old car. I ended up having difficulty putting the seats back in and they rubbed against the center console too. Good luck and I'm sure you'll be pleased with the results.
#25
Originally Posted by treynor
That's all for today - the above took me 3 hours working carefully, and would probably take 2 hours for a pro. Next, I'll document my soundproofing work and the results -- ETA, about a week.
So are you just going to let the car sit naked like that for a WEEK????
#26
Le Mans Master
Treynor,
I watched you post that last night and after the third picture, realized you had a lot more to go. I have been waiting for a pause so I wouldn't interrupt you to tell you what a great illustrative job you've done.
Thank you!
I watched you post that last night and after the third picture, realized you had a lot more to go. I have been waiting for a pause so I wouldn't interrupt you to tell you what a great illustrative job you've done.
Thank you!
#27
Le Mans Master
Yes, weight. Please weigh the materials then weigh the leftover scraps and we'll have an idea of what went into the car. It's probably too late but did you take any sound measurements so that we can get a before and after? Otherwise this is all very subjective. Otherwise, good job on the documentation.
#28
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I don't think all you "hard core" guys have anything to worry about weight - the full sound/heat setup from ExoticVette's for the Z06/Vert (front and rear) ships at about 4lbs.
You can probably cut back on a supersize every month and make up the weight
You can probably cut back on a supersize every month and make up the weight
#29
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Originally Posted by robvuk
Yes, weight. Please weigh the materials then weigh the leftover scraps and we'll have an idea of what went into the car. It's probably too late but did you take any sound measurements so that we can get a before and after? Otherwise this is all very subjective. Otherwise, good job on the documentation.
Sheesh, what kind of a scientist do you think I am ?
#30
Safety Car
Originally Posted by treynor
Weighing, check. "Before" sound measurements, check.
Sheesh, what kind of a scientist do you think I am ?
Sheesh, what kind of a scientist do you think I am ?
Good pictures and blow by blow account of your progress. Doing a complete job ... which is what is need to get good soundproofing success.
#31
Team Owner
Thanks for the pictorial. I know C5 guys have been doing this for years. I did the same to my 03 Z but used DynaMat Extreme. Just doing the rear added about 15 pounds to the car
Before
After
I'm doing the consol, floor and doors over the winter.
Tom
Before
After
I'm doing the consol, floor and doors over the winter.
Tom
#33
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treynor,
I did a full installation of Dynamat Xtreme on my C5Z. I applaud your attention to detail. Please include what your db measurements were, using what scale, at what highway speed (if you did this), type of road surface, etc.
If it is any encouragement, before @ 70mph on smooth asphalt, I measured ~81db's using the "A" scale. After, was 74-75db's. With rear partition (something I guess C6Z owners will have to do without) I measured 72-73db's.
I used 3 bulk packs of Xtreme so I probably added at least 50 pounds. The car is not a track car so no regrets. It sure is nicer to drive however.
Chuck
I did a full installation of Dynamat Xtreme on my C5Z. I applaud your attention to detail. Please include what your db measurements were, using what scale, at what highway speed (if you did this), type of road surface, etc.
If it is any encouragement, before @ 70mph on smooth asphalt, I measured ~81db's using the "A" scale. After, was 74-75db's. With rear partition (something I guess C6Z owners will have to do without) I measured 72-73db's.
I used 3 bulk packs of Xtreme so I probably added at least 50 pounds. The car is not a track car so no regrets. It sure is nicer to drive however.
Chuck
#36
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by DT
I don't think all you "hard core" guys have anything to worry about weight - the full sound/heat setup from ExoticVette's for the Z06/Vert (front and rear) ships at about 4lbs.
You can probably cut back on a supersize every month and make up the weight
You can probably cut back on a supersize every month and make up the weight
#37
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Damping material, section 1: driver's side
Procedure: clean surface with windex & towel, allow to dry. Use 1-2 sq ft pieces and don't worry about covering every last square inch. The important point: no air pockets under soundproofing. The 'proofing works by making contact with the underlying surface and damping vibrations like a shock absorber. Without contact, you're just adding weight. Cut curves / wrinkles / pockets aggressively with a box cutter in order to get thorough contact at all points.
Important soundproofing areas: firewall, forward tranny tunnel. Double layer on firewall, under existing soundproofing. Double layer on forward floor and tranny tunnel. Single layer under seat.
Procedure: clean surface with windex & towel, allow to dry. Use 1-2 sq ft pieces and don't worry about covering every last square inch. The important point: no air pockets under soundproofing. The 'proofing works by making contact with the underlying surface and damping vibrations like a shock absorber. Without contact, you're just adding weight. Cut curves / wrinkles / pockets aggressively with a box cutter in order to get thorough contact at all points.
Important soundproofing areas: firewall, forward tranny tunnel. Double layer on firewall, under existing soundproofing. Double layer on forward floor and tranny tunnel. Single layer under seat.
#38
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Driver's seat area. Single layer under seat, dual or triple layer on sheetmetal behind seat (this is where most of the tire road noise comes from)
#39
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Passenger side - a major source of header noise!! It's easy to see why with the trim removed - the fusebox has no sound insulation behind it, and noise goes straight through! Work some small pieces of damping material onto the firewall behind the fusebox, and do several layers behind and on the tranny tunnel to the side. Otherwise, same drill as driver's side.
When complete, a cut-to-fit L-comp blanket extending up above fusebox should reduce noise pass-through.
When complete, a cut-to-fit L-comp blanket extending up above fusebox should reduce noise pass-through.
#40
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The trunk is straightforward - the whole flat area and accessible wheelwells get a double layer. Be sure to work or cut the material as required to avoid air gaps in the uneven surfaces -- see pic for illustration. Every seam and contour should follow underlying trunk surface.
Same for wheel wells
Same for wheel wells