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Tick Clutch Cylinder?

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Old 04-20-2024, 02:37 PM
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BowtieBilly1121
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Default Tick Clutch Cylinder?

My 2008 Corvette C6 needs a new clutch cylinder! Is the Tick clutch cylinder the best replacement? Mine does not have the upgraded one from the dealership! Thanks
Old 04-20-2024, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BowtieBilly1121
My 2008 Corvette C6 needs a new clutch cylinder! Is the Tick clutch cylinder the best replacement? Mine does not have the upgraded one from the dealership! Thanks
your choice but most people go with the new all black version OEM master.I’m running Mantic 9000 twin disc and factory tr 6060 ,I don’t have trouble with the clutch sticking to the floor or missing shifts.I’ve had my car to the track 3 times with no issues (drag strip)
hope this helps
Old 04-21-2024, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by BowtieBilly1121
My 2008 Corvette C6 needs a new clutch cylinder! Is the Tick clutch cylinder the best replacement? Mine does not have the upgraded one from the dealership! Thanks
Yes, and no on the tick master cylinder.

The yes part is the master cylinder is in fact a Tilton aluminum master cylinder that has been converted to use in the C-6, so rebuild able.

The no part is the master has a larger ID than the oem unit, so will push more fluid with same pedal push as oem, and have to relocate the stud for the master on the pedal so less cylinder plunger push at pedal, and still dial in more free play up top, to get the master to not overthrow the pressure plate spring ends with full pedal push to damage the pressure plate finger springs.
Old 04-21-2024, 07:31 AM
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I would replace it with an upgraded oem master, easy install and less then $100.
Old 04-21-2024, 12:01 PM
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Thanks everyone for the great advice.
Old 04-24-2024, 08:43 AM
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For what it's worth, Tick's master is a solid performer for the F-body crowd.
Old 04-24-2024, 05:17 PM
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I have new problems now I'm hoping he is wrong! But he works on Corvettes and said my problem is not the clutch master cylinder they never go bad its the slave cylinder. But he did not see or check my Vette he just over heard me talking about it at the parts store. It loses no brake fluid and if it sets about a week the clutch pedal is a little weak but 2 or 3 pumps and its back perfect. A lot of times when I unhook the battery tender before driving after checking all the fluids, I will just open the speed bleeder stick it in a empty water bottle I save to keep the fluid clean. I can push the brake pedal to the floor, get out and tighten the bleeder and add a little brake fluid and it works perfect. If I drive it every 2 or 3 days no problem. I have a set of 28 X 10.5 - 18 Hoosier Radial Drag slicks and the clutch does not slip! I believe if it was the slave cylinder it would be getting much worse driving it. But I do remember about 7 years ago when I 1st got it GM had a recall on the stock master cylinder for a upgrade. But they all said the pedal had to be sticking to the floor and do it when there tech.check it. And mine was working fine.
Old 04-25-2024, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BowtieBilly1121
I have new problems now I'm hoping he is wrong! But he works on Corvettes and said my problem is not the clutch master cylinder they never go bad its the slave cylinder. But he did not see or check my Vette he just over heard me talking about it at the parts store. It loses no brake fluid and if it sets about a week the clutch pedal is a little weak but 2 or 3 pumps and its back perfect. A lot of times when I unhook the battery tender before driving after checking all the fluids, I will just open the speed bleeder stick it in a empty water bottle I save to keep the fluid clean. I can push the brake pedal to the floor, get out and tighten the bleeder and add a little brake fluid and it works perfect. If I drive it every 2 or 3 days no problem. I have a set of 28 X 10.5 - 18 Hoosier Radial Drag slicks and the clutch does not slip! I believe if it was the slave cylinder it would be getting much worse driving it. But I do remember about 7 years ago when I 1st got it GM had a recall on the stock master cylinder for a upgrade. But they all said the pedal had to be sticking to the floor and do it when there tech.check it. And mine was working fine.
New upgraded Oem master cylinder, and tell by cap having Dot 4 and tank being black, not clear/white, and should only be about 1Hr shop time if you need a shop to replace it,since you go in from the front drivers wheel fender lining, do not have to drop the drive line.
Amazon Amazon

And if it was the slave cylinder with Plunger problems, then would be losing fluid past the plunger seal, into the bell housing void, and would be dripping out the bottom weep channel in the bell housing.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-cylinder.html



So Problem is the age on the old master if you still have a tank that is clear.cap does not have Dot4 on it,
and with system not losing any fluid, but having to play the pump up game ,the plunger seal on the old master is shrinking down, not creating a good seal on the cylinder walls when cold, until you pump it a few times to heat/pressure expand the end plunger out, the problem at hand.



And yes, I get the same problem on the Harley front brake plungers as they age out with rubber shrinkage. lips of the U plunger no longer tight to cylinder walls, where you have to play the pull the brake lever in hard to heat/pressure expand the plunger seal back out to get a firm lever again for min pull of the lever before front brakes start to engage (at least for a while), but thankfully the plunger seal for the assembly on the bikes are easy to swap out on the Harley's front master cylinders.

Plunger assembly 17, the U seal right before the spring and only a few dollars, verse the $45 dollars that HD wants for the entire plunger assembly 17 repair kit.


Old 04-26-2024, 04:25 PM
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Thank you so much for the great advice! I had decided to go ahead and replace it and if I had to replace the slave cylinder I was gonna replace the flywheel clutch & pressure plate again and have a all new clutch system. Again Thank you for your time & advice!

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