Yank SS3200 vs SS3600
#21
Burning Brakes
btw the yank worked damn good for what little power I had. I had a full bolt on ls2 and put down 397 RWHP and could pull 1.48 to 1.55 60’s all day.
#22
I’m no stall expert but I always thought the opposite. The higher the str the looser it feels. I used to have a yank 3600 with a 2.5 str and it felt pretty loose compared to my 3800 Fti which is something like 1.8 I think.
btw the yank worked damn good for what little power I had. I had a full bolt on ls2 and put down 397 RWHP and could pull 1.48 to 1.55 60’s all day.
btw the yank worked damn good for what little power I had. I had a full bolt on ls2 and put down 397 RWHP and could pull 1.48 to 1.55 60’s all day.
#23
Burning Brakes
#24
I had a ss4000 in my 08 and it worked awesome. It was a little loose for me on the street but not terrible. The problem I had was we couldnt get it to shift from first to second without hanging. The best 60 was in the low 1.4s and the best ET was 11.0 @123. The mods were TSP headers, Vera ram, converter and MT drag radials on WS6 wheels. I wish we had more time to mess with the tune because I think it would have run 10.80s. This was with a tune that my friend sent me with no revisions or anything. I sold the car to a friend shortly after and was nearly killed in it when he lost it.
#25
Burning Brakes
I had a ss4000 in my 08 and it worked awesome. It was a little loose for me on the street but not terrible. The problem I had was we couldnt get it to shift from first to second without hanging. The best 60 was in the low 1.4s and the best ET was 11.0 @123. The mods were TSP headers, Vera ram, converter and MT drag radials on WS6 wheels. I wish we had more time to mess with the tune because I think it would have run 10.80s. This was with a tune that my friend sent me with no revisions or anything. I sold the car to a friend shortly after and was nearly killed in it when he lost it.
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm having second thoughts about moving forward with the converter in this car. I don't think I planned far enough ahead. The converter will lead to needing drag radials and there are limited wheel/tire options for the C6 widebody cars. I also love the 12" wide wheels and don't really want to go narrow either. I love the Yank converter I had in my previous 2000 Camaro but I'm feeling like my current pristine Grand Sport with 15k miles isn't the right car to head down that road in. Yes, it seems I'm getting cold feet.
Edited to say:
I never drove my previous Camaro with the SS3600 and street tires. I installed Toyo TQ's at the same time as the Yank SS3600.
Edited to say:
I never drove my previous Camaro with the SS3600 and street tires. I installed Toyo TQ's at the same time as the Yank SS3600.
Last edited by rybern; 07-04-2022 at 05:51 PM.
#27
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I'm having second thoughts about moving forward with the converter in this car. I don't think I planned far enough ahead. The converter will lead to needing drag radials and there are limited wheel/tire options for the C6 widebody cars. I also love the 12" wide wheels and don't really want to go narrow either. I love the Yank converter I had in my previous 2000 Camaro but I'm feeling like my current pristine Grand Sport with 15k miles isn't the right car to head down that road in. Yes, it seems I'm getting cold feet.
Edited to say:
I never drove my previous Camaro with the SS3600 and street tires. I installed Toyo TQ's at the same time as the Yank SS3600.
Edited to say:
I never drove my previous Camaro with the SS3600 and street tires. I installed Toyo TQ's at the same time as the Yank SS3600.
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She_Thicc (07-14-2022)
#28
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#29
Safety Car
I'm having second thoughts about moving forward with the converter in this car. I don't think I planned far enough ahead. The converter will lead to needing drag radials and there are limited wheel/tire options for the C6 widebody cars. I also love the 12" wide wheels and don't really want to go narrow either. I love the Yank converter I had in my previous 2000 Camaro but I'm feeling like my current pristine Grand Sport with 15k miles isn't the right car to head down that road in. Yes, it seems I'm getting cold feet.
Edited to say:
I never drove my previous Camaro with the SS3600 and street tires. I installed Toyo TQ's at the same time as the Yank SS3600.
Edited to say:
I never drove my previous Camaro with the SS3600 and street tires. I installed Toyo TQ's at the same time as the Yank SS3600.
Ryan, you could always run the stock wheels on the street with Toyo R888's in the back to keep the wide theme going, and just swap out spare wheels/drag radials for track use. I haven't been able to find OEM C5Z fronts anywhere myself though.
#30
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C5 Z06 fronts aren't the only wheels that work well for drag strip use. I've used C4 A-molds that are 1# heavier. The "salad spinners" and "sawblades" add a little extra weight and are cheap, if you prefer that style.
#31
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
What would your guess the E/T difference should be on the following. Let's say I run a 11.6 1.6 60' with a Yank PAS3400 with MT et streets mounted on 19 x 12's. What would you guess I'd gain by swapping to 275 45 17's?
GS rear wheel weighs 26.5 lbs
325/30r19 ET street SS. 34 lbs
#32
Burning Brakes
I kind of like the idea of keeping my AS3+ ZP's for touring. I'm sort of on the lookout for a cheap set of OEM GS rears but the C4 ZR1 rears would probably be a better option due to taller sidewall. There was two 325/30r19 ET street SS's with 2021 date codes for sale on here several weeks ago for $400(for both).... I wish I would have bought them.
It probably wont surprise you that I'm not willing to go with sawblades or salad spinners to pick up a few tenths.
What would your guess the E/T difference should be on the following. Let's say I run a 11.6 1.6 60' with a Yank PAS3400 with MT et streets mounted on 19 x 12's. What would you guess I'd gain by swapping to 275 45 17's?
GS rear wheel weighs 26.5 lbs
325/30r19 ET street SS. 34 lbs
It probably wont surprise you that I'm not willing to go with sawblades or salad spinners to pick up a few tenths.
What would your guess the E/T difference should be on the following. Let's say I run a 11.6 1.6 60' with a Yank PAS3400 with MT et streets mounted on 19 x 12's. What would you guess I'd gain by swapping to 275 45 17's?
GS rear wheel weighs 26.5 lbs
325/30r19 ET street SS. 34 lbs
#33
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
well rotational weight is another way of dropping ETs so ill guess a tenth or maybe two depending on overall weight you would be suprised and just for the heck of it RPM just did a youtube vid about a GS A6 with just headers and an A&A kit and on 9-10lbs of boost and pump 93 gas it made 605rwhp can you imagine that much HP along with that converter i bet you could run 9s and still be a dependable docile daily driver if needed
#34
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low 60' times?
10 or 11 sec 1/4 mi?
High mph 1/4 mi?
reliable street use?
"X" hp?
all of the above?
easy/min maintenance?
#36
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Its interesting how many of us started with Gen 4 Camaros. I still miss my 2000 Camaro SS too. I still think they are cool cars and I've considered another one.... but I feel like I'd be going backward from the Vette.
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Eshoremd (07-10-2022)
#37
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I suppose I just want a little more excitement. I do like the thought of having 550hp to the wheels and I do like the thought of owning a 10 second car. But reliability is very important to me. I've ordered a Dragy to monitor my progress without having to go to the dragstrip.
2. You can get a dyno sheet showing 550 HP and photoshop your name and car on it, if you want something to put on your dash at car shows. You can also get a 10 second timeslip at the track if you line up with someone who actually runs 10's. However, to satisfy yourself without violating reliability will take either lots of $$$ or dedication of personal time, effort, and education.
3. The Dragy may be of some help from 40 or 50 MPH to ~ 130, but of no real consequence compared to a launch on a properly prepped dragstrip with drag radials.
4. For your "excitement" quest, I'd suggest a 3600 stall Yank.
5. For your 10 second quest, I'd suggest adding 1.75" headers, DR's, and learning how to use HP tuners to tweak the initial tune the converter installer would and should provide.
6. For your 550 HP quest, I'd suggest adding a centi-blower installed and tuned by the provider to be compatible with your other mods. Probably should switch to 1.875 or 2" headers too.
If you look at the C6 1/4 mi results, you'll find that nearly all the top times were run by those who either did their own tuning or had a top tuner do it for them. Recording/reviewing scans of passes, comparing them with timeslips, and tweaking the tune, is the key to going quick.
I've had really good drivetrain reliability for 40K miles with a 3600 stall and another 45K after I swapped to a 4000. BTW, I never removed any of the aforementioned engine bolts.
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
1. Reliability, aka risk of failure due to non-OEM parts or mods, decreases more quickly as the rate of internal engine mods increases. Just tuning errors alone can be catastrophic. Once you remove the bolts from the oil pan, the valve covers, or the timing case cover to make internal changes, your reliability will suffer.
2. You can get a dyno sheet showing 550 HP and photoshop your name and car on it, if you want something to put on your dash at car shows. You can also get a 10 second timeslip at the track if you line up with someone who actually runs 10's. However, to satisfy yourself without violating reliability will take either lots of $$$ or dedication of personal time, effort, and education.
3. The Dragy may be of some help from 40 or 50 MPH to ~ 130, but of no real consequence compared to a launch on a properly prepped dragstrip with drag radials.
4. For your "excitement" quest, I'd suggest a 3600 stall Yank.
5. For your 10 second quest, I'd suggest adding 1.75" headers, DR's, and learning how to use HP tuners to tweak the initial tune the converter installer would and should provide.
6. For your 550 HP quest, I'd suggest adding a centi-blower installed and tuned by the provider to be compatible with your other mods. Probably should switch to 1.875 or 2" headers too.
If you look at the C6 1/4 mi results, you'll find that nearly all the top times were run by those who either did their own tuning or had a top tuner do it for them. Recording/reviewing scans of passes, comparing them with timeslips, and tweaking the tune, is the key to going quick.
I've had really good drivetrain reliability for 40K miles with a 3600 stall and another 45K after I swapped to a 4000. BTW, I never removed any of the aforementioned engine bolts.
2. You can get a dyno sheet showing 550 HP and photoshop your name and car on it, if you want something to put on your dash at car shows. You can also get a 10 second timeslip at the track if you line up with someone who actually runs 10's. However, to satisfy yourself without violating reliability will take either lots of $$$ or dedication of personal time, effort, and education.
3. The Dragy may be of some help from 40 or 50 MPH to ~ 130, but of no real consequence compared to a launch on a properly prepped dragstrip with drag radials.
4. For your "excitement" quest, I'd suggest a 3600 stall Yank.
5. For your 10 second quest, I'd suggest adding 1.75" headers, DR's, and learning how to use HP tuners to tweak the initial tune the converter installer would and should provide.
6. For your 550 HP quest, I'd suggest adding a centi-blower installed and tuned by the provider to be compatible with your other mods. Probably should switch to 1.875 or 2" headers too.
If you look at the C6 1/4 mi results, you'll find that nearly all the top times were run by those who either did their own tuning or had a top tuner do it for them. Recording/reviewing scans of passes, comparing them with timeslips, and tweaking the tune, is the key to going quick.
I've had really good drivetrain reliability for 40K miles with a 3600 stall and another 45K after I swapped to a 4000. BTW, I never removed any of the aforementioned engine bolts.
I seems I've become emotionally invested in this project and have conflicting objectives with the car. I haven't even done the converter yet and I'm already thinking I should do a Centri blower before the converter after I added up the cost of getting full benefit of the converter. In my case, Dave at Yank feels the PAS3400 is a better choice due to the strong chance I'll SC. He said it's a slightly tighter SS3600.
I do have an interest in tweeking my tune once I get a solid tune after the converter install that also includes auto upshift.
I have zero interest in faking someone into believing I have a 10 second car or a 600hp car. Any achievement I obtain will be very small compared to what others have done. I don't have to have the best, fastest or even the cleanest car. I enjoy having a nice car but ironically I don't enjoy drawing attention to myself or being the center of attention. If I do achieve 550whp or get into the 10's, it will be a special achievement between me and the car. Yes, I will share the info but with no expectation that it change how anyone feels about me or the car.
Last edited by rybern; 07-15-2022 at 06:49 AM.
#40
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
This statement has really stood out with me over the past few days. I have doubled down on the converter and looking forward to getting it installed. No word on shipping yet.
I've reminded myself that my concern with traction with the converter and street tires can be resolved with throttle manipulation. This in itself will bring forth some excitement.
I've reminded myself that my concern with traction with the converter and street tires can be resolved with throttle manipulation. This in itself will bring forth some excitement.