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I finally ordered a Yank PAS 3400 TO replace my yank ss3200 that wasn't happy with the power the car makes. I did all of this with floor jacks a harbor freight trans jack and hand tools. In total it took me about 9-10 hours to pull it all out then put it back in. Over a hour of that was trying every way possible to get the stripped bolts out the old converter before I drilled them out. I had a friend help me pull the trans out of the car and put it back in.
the bolts holding the old converter in were rounded off before I even got to them. I got 1 put of 3 out and ended up having to drill the other 2 out.
I figure while I have everything out, I might as well change up the fuel system a bit. I added a inline filter for e85 I took off the paper filter from the intake pump so it doesn't break down and kill the walbro in there. I used factory lines I just intercepted it in the back with own to an fittings to add the filter.
A sharp wrench works great to connect/disconnect the crossover tube.
Found a surprise when I pulled the old concerter off. I knew I messed it up from trying to spray it but I didn't expect this.
the floor jack with a 2x8 was so much easier to use and move under the car.
refilled the transmission and rear end. it was a little loud with no exhaust on the car in the garage.
finished up the fuel filter after we filled up all the fluids and made sure it didn't leak fuel.
Felt good to see it with wheels on it since it hasn't been driven since its last time to the track.
I also flushed the coolant since it was already jacked up and I'm not sure when the last time it was flushed.
Nice work! I'm thinking of tackling this job using our 2 post lift. How much does the torque tube move during this operation? I’m wondering if I could support it with a muffler stand and use a transmission jack on a table or custom built platform to drop the tranny. Any other misc. pieces that would need support?
Nice work! I'm thinking of tackling this job using our 2 post lift. How much does the torque tube move during this operation? I’m wondering if I could support it with a muffler stand and use a transmission jack on a table or custom built platform to drop the tranny. Any other misc. pieces that would need support?
I had a jack stand on the end and beginning of the torque tube, I took the jack stand out of the way when i put the trans back in and it might of dropped down maybe a inch or so without any support. This would of been so much easier with a lift.
Nice work! I'm thinking of tackling this job using our 2 post lift. How much does the torque tube move during this operation? I’m wondering if I could support it with a muffler stand and use a transmission jack on a table or custom built platform to drop the tranny. Any other misc. pieces that would need support?
I've swapped TC's on my '08 three times on jackstands using a trans jack. I don't know the procedure with a lift, but one thing that's important is to support the torque tube so the engine doesn't contact the firewall.
I'd suspect if you use a table to drop the suspension, you'll want it to have wheels to roll it out of the way.
Hey man I'm glad you dared is lots of work but I wouldn't let nobody do it for me no way no how when I'm done the pleasure is all mine and my baby was never left behind & the cash still in my pocket.
How do you like the pas 3400 compared to the ss.
I swapped mine for a psa 3800 and I like it even better drives different but kicks like a frigging mule.
When I pull out the diff or tranny I move the intake manifold forward like an inch to keep it from contacting the fire wall and also allows me to lower the cradle a lot more to get to the top bell housing bolts with more room.
What holds the torq tube from lowering any further is a bolt on the fire wall which contacts the back of the intake manifold.
Hey man I'm glad you dared is lots of work but I wouldn't let nobody do it for me no way no how when I'm done the pleasure is all mine and my baby was never left behind & the cash still in my pocket.
How do you like the pas 3400 compared to the ss.
I swapped mine for a psa 3800 and I like it even better drives different but kicks like a frigging mule.
When I pull out the diff or tranny I move the intake manifold forward like an inch to keep it from contacting the fire wall and also allows me to lower the cradle a lot more to get to the top bell housing bolts with more room.
What holds the torq tube from lowering any further is a bolt on the fire wall which contacts the back of the intake manifold.
Any plans for a 3.42
I love how the PAS3400 feels so far compared to the ss3200. I can foot brake it to around 2500ish which is about 1000 rpm more than the ss3200 would foot brake. I was thinking of getting the pas3800 but I was advised against it with my setup since I would of had to rev it out more.
I actually have a built 3.42 rear end as a spare. Idk if ill ever use it unless mine breaks. I'm not really wanting to have to be in 5th to go through the traps in the 1/4. So far the car has gone 10.9@127 multiple times n/a (with a broke tcc). So far the 2.56 are working good with my setup. We will see how it does now with nitrous since the PAS will actually hold it instead of breaking from a 100 shot.
I've swapped TC's on my '08 three times on jackstands using a trans jack. I don't know the procedure with a lift, but one thing that's important is to support the torque tube so the engine doesn't contact the firewall.
I'd suspect if you use a table to drop the suspension, you'll want it to have wheels to roll it out of the way.
yeah it wasn't bad at all for this being my first time. If I had a lift I would of still done it the same but the lift would of made it a little easier to raise it a hair more for taking out certain bolts and stuff (I'm 6'2" it gets awkward under a car on my back sometimes).
I love how the PAS3400 feels so far compared to the ss3200. I can foot brake it to around 2500ish which is about 1000 rpm more than the ss3200 would foot brake. I was thinking of getting the pas3800 but I was advised against it with my setup since I would of had to rev it out more.
I actually have a built 3.42 rear end as a spare. Idk if ill ever use it unless mine breaks. I'm not really wanting to have to be in 5th to go through the traps in the 1/4. So far the car has gone 10.9@127 multiple times n/a (with a broke tcc). So far the 2.56 are working good with my setup. We will see how it does now with nitrous since the PAS will actually hold it instead of breaking from a 100 shot.
Oh man! I can't bilieve you left that build 3.42 out that thing will turn it into party animal at the track.
The races with n-a cars are all won out of the hole by the way and I know you would not belive this but you will have more power in 5th with the 3.42 that you have now with the 2.56 in 4th gear ta-da!
Oh man! I can't bilieve you left that build 3.42 out that thing will turn it into party animal at the track.
The races with n-a cars are all won out of the hole by the way and I know you would not belive this but you will have more power in 5th with the 3.42 that you have now with the 2.56 in 4th gear ta-da!
I have mixed feelings about the 3.42s, some say they're great, some say they don't even make it faster that it just feels more harsh so you think it's faster. I know with the new tcc the car will drop a few thousands off the et.
I'm not too concerned with my car na, I wanted a 10 did it multiple times. Now it's time to see what she car really do with some real nitrous in her.
Plus I like the safety of having the spare one, if I blow up the stock one ill come home and a few hours later have the 3.42 in.
I love how the PAS3400 feels so far compared to the ss3200. I can foot brake it to around 2500ish which is about 1000 rpm more than the ss3200 would foot brake. I was thinking of getting the pas3800 but I was advised against it with my setup since I would of had to rev it out more.
I actually have a built 3.42 rear end as a spare. Idk if ill ever use it unless mine breaks. I'm not really wanting to have to be in 5th to go through the traps in the 1/4. So far the car has gone 10.9@127 multiple times n/a (with a broke tcc). So far the 2.56 are working good with my setup. We will see how it does now with nitrous since the PAS will actually hold it instead of breaking from a 100 shot.
Originally Posted by xBoostx
Oh man! I can't bilieve you left that build 3.42 out that thing will turn it into party animal at the track.
The races with n-a cars are all won out of the hole by the way and I know you would not belive this but you will have more power in 5th with the 3.42 that you have now with the 2.56 in 4th gear ta-da!
I'm confused by this 5th gear talk. 3rd gear with a 2.56 is good for 132 in the quarter, just like a 3.42 in 4th. The overall ratio is 3.93 for both. Neither axle gear would require a shift to 5th, assuming a 6800 RPM limit. If you can spin the engine to 7200, you can hit 140 without 5th gear.
Although Subfloor has shown a 3.42 is almost exactly .10 quicker in the 1/4, my local racing buddy (same tires, same converter) has a PB 60' of 1.51 with a 3.42 gear, while my PB 60' (same track, same night) is 1.48 with a 2.56 gear. His 1/8 time does nip me a taste though.
I'm confused by this 5th gear talk. 3rd gear with a 2.56 is good for 132 in the quarter, just like a 3.42 in 4th. The overall ratio is 3.93 for both. Neither axle gear would require a shift to 5th, assuming a 6800 RPM limit. If you can spin the engine to 7200, you can hit 140 without 5th gear.
Although Subfloor has shown a 3.42 is almost exactly .10 quicker in the 1/4, my local racing buddy (same tires, same converter) has a PB 60' of 1.51 with a 3.42 gear, while my PB 60' (same track, same night) is 1.48 with a 2.56 gear. His 1/8 time does nip me a taste though.
my car is a nitrous car, the 2 passes I made on a soft hit progress super soft with only pump gas the car trapped over 132 with a broken TCC. I'm sure with my e85 and a 200 shot ill trap a little more than i did on a 70ish shot with 93 octane. But like I said the 2.56 haven't failed me yet why change it. Now if I blow the rear end yes the 3.42 will be going in but if it's not any faster ill pull them out, sell them and go to a different gear. The car also has a small cam so i don't see any point in adding stress of reving up to 7k+ on a sbe when it's not making anymore power up there (I'm trying to keep my rods inside the block for now).
Hats off to you dude, more than I would even attempt
NSF
Thank you. I don't really trust shops after some of the issues I've had to fix on this car. Some of the work done before I bought the car that was done by a big name shop wasn't really done right.
Plus if it breaks again I know I'm the one to blame.
I thought the pas was rated for the same power as the ss?
on their site yes but if you call them and talk to them and you're around 700ish boosted they'll recommend the PAS. But the ss is a na converter its way to loose for nitrous or boost which is why mine broke.
I'm not even sure why they list a hp rating. Tq is what kills stuff. But remember a 500hp na car vs a 500hp nitrous car the nitrous one is going to be 600+ ft/lbs easy.
my car is a nitrous car, the 2 passes I made on a soft hit progress super soft with only pump gas the car trapped over 132 with a broken TCC. I'm sure with my e85 and a 200 shot ill trap a little more than i did on a 70ish shot with 93 octane. But like I said the 2.56 haven't failed me yet why change it. Now if I blow the rear end yes the 3.42 will be going in but if it's not any faster ill pull them out, sell them and go to a different gear. The car also has a small cam so i don't see any point in adding stress of reving up to 7k+ on a sbe when it's not making anymore power up there (I'm trying to keep my rods inside the block for now).
I was more aiming the post at xBoostx, since he was promoting the 3.42 over the 2.56. It doesn't make sense to me to force a shift just short of the stripe. Extend the RPM limit or go to larger tires if necessary, but don't do another shift for the last 200 feet.
08-28-2017, 01:20 AM
swapped converters on the c6 finally
