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Hello guys! Just got an 05 C6 Z51. First time in the forums
I got my harmonic balancer replaced at the dealer upon picking up the car last week because it was a little wobbly. Now it's all good.
Earlier today, I drove the car like how I expected a c6 to be driven. No traffic though! So it was safe.
I got to the parking lot and I noticed clicking sounds. I thought it was engine knocking since it went with the revs and it was pretty loud.
Opened up the hood and the belt tensioner right by the water pump on the passenger side and it was bouncing.
I also noticed one groove on the belt wasn't sitting where its supposed to be on the harmonic balancer. The harmonic balancer is a little out is what's causing it. It's not aligned with everything else for the belt to be straight. It's not wobbly so I hope it's not the case. Please let me know your opinions. Thanks!
sorry if this is the wrong place for this problem. Feel free to let me know how to move it.
Whatever the problem is it's from a botched install. It sounds like maybe he didn't pull the balancer all the way up on the crank shaft hub..Take it back to the dealer and don't drive it around , it could screw something else up...You paid your money , now let them deal with the problem... Oh, also never go to that dealer again because it sounds like their Corvette mechanic doesn't know what he's doing.......WW
I went out there and checked it out again. The bolt was loose! I could turn it with my hand. Wow. Loose bolt but it wasn't wobbling. Pretty weird I think. I'm wondering, is it always gonna come lose when I go WOT?
Also, what's the easiest way on replacing the bolt?
Last edited by rubblerubble; 11-22-2016 at 09:59 AM.
I went out there and checked it out again. The bolt was loose! I could turn it with my hand. Wow. Loose bolt but it wasn't wobbling. Pretty weird I think. I'm wondering, is it always gonna come lose when I go WOT?
Also, what's the easiest way on replacing the bolt?
I would be willing to bet that they didn't use a new Balancer Bolt .That bolt is to be replaced with new whenever it is removed .It is a torque to yield and is torqued to a high value. The process is involved with using original bolt torque to 350lbs to seat the balancer, then remove the bolt and install new bolt torque to 37lbs the turn an number of degrees beyond ( not sure of that value ) .I think to sneak the bolt out you may have to move the steering rack out the way a bit . That was a good catch you found before things really went south.I might not be to excited about going back to that dealer for anything important,enjoy your new ride.
I went out there and checked it out again. The bolt was loose! I could turn it with my hand. Wow. Loose bolt but it wasn't wobbling. Pretty weird I think. I'm wondering, is it always gonna come lose when I go WOT?
Also, what's the easiest way on replacing the bolt?
Unfortunately you can't get to the bolt without either moving the steering rack or dropping the cradle/raising the engine. The installers definitely didn't do a good job.
Where are you located? Perhaps there is a more competent shop in the area to perform the work.
Unfortunately you can't get to the bolt without either moving the steering rack or dropping the cradle/raising the engine. The installers definitely didn't do a good job.
Where are you located? Perhaps there is a more competent shop in the area to perform the work.
I'm at North Carolina. Spring Lake, Fayetteville area. I don't want to spend any more money since I pretty much spent a few grand on the downpayment. I might get them to tow it back to the dealer and have them replace the bolt.
There wasn't any issue until I went WOT. I might just hold off the gas until I could have it replaced to something better for track down the road.
Guess I'll be back on a Firebird for the next few days! I'll totally miss driving the 'vette.
Just take it back and have them fix it. Its not from the way you drove the car. Feel free to drive how ever you feel fit. The bolt shouldn't move if its installed correctly.
Just take it back and have them fix it. Its not from the way you drove the car. Feel free to drive how ever you feel fit. The bolt shouldn't move if its installed correctly.
From what I've read on some threads they experienced the same loosening bolt from stepping on it hard. I'm guessing once it's totally installed correctly it won't do it no matter how much I go on it?
I'm pretty sure they'll install another OEM bolt and everyone's been suggesting an ARP bolt.
Once I pick the car up, in couple of days, should I try and go WOT once again and see if it holds up?
I'm really thinking of taking this to the track next year. Don't wanna have it happen on me while I'm in the middle of it.
Honestly, unless something is wrong, getting on the gas has nothing to do with harmonic balancer failure. But I must say that in your position, I would be checking that bolt for the first few weeks...but don't baby it...drive it.
If you have a loose HB bolt that you can turn by hand the install was incomplete. A new HB and bolt (new GM design) should not come loose.
The GM HB bolt/washer is one piece. The washer is not separate. Here is a pic of an old one I have, but the newer bolt. I would use this GM bolt over an ARP.
If I were you, I'd get out of the dealership, go to a specialty shop. I'd also consider a different HB, other than a GM replacement. I used a Powerbond, others like ATI.
Since I am FI now I also pinned the HB. I do mine pretty different than most others. I pin not only the HB to the crank, but pin the bolt as well after it's torqued to spec. Now nothing will spin loose. Much harder to do it this way, but I sleep better.
This is really WRONG, But you paid your $$$ and humans do the work, so a mistake was made. Easy enough to fix...Get the service writer to WRITE DOWN what the repair procedure will be... because if it's just tightening up the bolt WRONGO ...
The PROCEDURE is use the installer tool to pull the new harmonic on, the , remove the tool, put in a new bolt and torque to spec. Get NAMES and get the number of the district service rep. IN CASE they have attitude or issues...They should be ALL OVER THIS like lint on a cheap blue suit...
Mike
If you have a loose HB bolt that you can turn by hand the install was incomplete. A new HB and bolt (new GM design) should not come loose.
The GM HB bolt/washer is one piece. The washer is not separate. Here is a pic of an old one I have, but the newer bolt. I would use this GM bolt over an ARP.
If I were you, I'd get out of the dealership, go to a specialty shop. I'd also consider a different HB, other than a GM replacement. I used a Powerbond, others like ATI.
Since I am FI now I also pinned the HB. I do mine pretty different than most others. I pin not only the HB to the crank, but pin the bolt as well after it's torqued to spec. Now nothing will spin loose. Much harder to do it this way, but I sleep better.
Interesting to pin the bolt. Does this make it difficult to replace the balancer if you need to in the future? How is the bolt removed if needed?
This is really WRONG, But you paid your $$$ and humans do the work, so a mistake was made. Easy enough to fix...Get the service writer to WRITE DOWN what the repair procedure will be... because if it's just tightening up the bolt WRONGO ...
The PROCEDURE is use the OLD BOLT to pull the new harmonic on, the replace the old bolt with the new and torque to spec. Get NAMES and get the number of the district service rep. IN CASE they have attitude or issues...They should be ALL OVER THIS like lint on a cheap blue suit...
Mike
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the procedure on my payed repair site says to use a harmonic balancer install tool ( not the old bolt) to pull the balancer into place.I believe the GM repair manual says the same thing...They say some have stripped out the threads in the crank using a bolt to pull the balancer on.....Also you don't just torque the stock bolt, you have to torque the bolt to a specifed number, then tighten the bolt to a certain degree past that torque spec, I believe it's something like 34 degrees past the torque spec.. The ARP bolt is the one that you just torque to their given torque spec and your done.. That's why alot of guys like the ARP bolts better then stock...WW
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Interesting to pin the bolt. Does this make it difficult to replace the balancer if you need to in the future? How is the bolt removed if needed?
The pilot hole is drilled using a special jig I built to mount to the powerbond HB puller bolt holes. It is drilled 35mm deep. The dowel pin is 25mm long. It is pressed in flush with the bolt. If the HB needs to be removed, the dowel is simply tapped in past the bolt head using a drift punch. Then remove as normal.
11-21-2016, 11:58 PM
Harmonic Balancer out of alignment?
...WW
..Also you don't just torque the stock bolt, you have to torque the bolt to a specifed number, then tighten the bolt to a certain degree past that torque spec, I believe it's something like 34 degrees past the torque spec.. The ARP bolt is the one that you just torque to their given torque spec and your done.. That's why alot of guys like the ARP bolts better then stock...WW