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Can anyone say how this fix holds up ? over time .... Would love to hear if this is suitable as a long term solution since my clutch and cylinders work well , and dont want to have to get into the bell housing if this works
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I hate to be the one yet again to bring up such an old thread but it didn't look like blackz had been active in many months so I didn't bother with a pm.
Does anyone know (regarding the soft seal cap) if the center piece with the o-rings is removed and not used or am I just not putting something together correctly? It seems like it has to be removed for the fitting to slide onto the metal part of the factory line.
I know im not on here much anymore but if you have any questions feel free to email me at blackz151 at gmail.com and Ill try to help field any questions.
tysm for all the info i did something similar to this and the youtube video. I FIXED THIS ISSUE WITHOUT REMOVING MY HEADERS
i ran into this issue as well. i knew i was suppose to ziptie the clutchline away from the headers but comepletely forgot to after installing my longtubes since i was so excited to drive it. Anyways, my problem was that i had my headers welded to my xpipe because fitment was off since they were ebay brands. So removing the headers to fix this would result in me removing the entire exhaust which didnt feel like an option for me to do at home on jack stands. so i decided to fix it except with a different method easier to do with headers on. Ngl it was tedious and i dealt with alot of hand injuries, it took a while.
HERES HOW I DID IT: req: 1/4 tube, 4 fuel line clamps
SO i cut the clutch line in half from the point where it was leaking from (assuming we all have a leak in a very similar spot from 7/8 headers), cut off the burnt (useless) oem sleeve on the line, and inserted a smooth 1/4 tube ( i was originally using barb 1/4 fitting but was impossible to fit in hose with little space to work from headers) so i purchased a pistol grip blowgun( 1/4 tube) at auto parts cheap as hell, sawed off the 1/4 tube that came on it. the tube is about 5 inches, so i squeezed the tube into the open cut ends and then reconnected the hose with the tube in the middle, and then used 4 fuel line clamps ( 2 on each side) after that i ziptied the hose just to add more safety on it. SImple as that! no need to drop the trany or remove headers.
note: i had to jack the car up and have a friend over the car while i was underneath to perform this since the reach is hard espcially if you dont have a skinny wrist, , your hands may hurt or bleed from lack of space but its doable with patience and the right tools, you will need long needle nose pliers and extensions for your socket and drill. ive been driving with this set up and my clutch works fine, sorry for the quick brief explanation, lmk if you have questions
Bringing this thread back! I recently burnt my clutch line but was told the transmission needed to be removed. After viewing this all I can do is purchase a new hydraulic line and swap it ?? Obviously I would remove the headers to create more space. Is that correct? Any recommendations on which clutch line to get ?
please and thank you !
I know this is an old post, but I would like to update a few things. I to had my clutch line burst due to being too close the header and the clutch fluid did catch fire. I was able to put it out before it did serious damage. I was glad to have found this info on the forum, but want to share some updated info on parts. I'm attaching the original PDF for the installation and a list of parts to obtain from Discount Hydrolic Hose (https://www.discounthydraulichose.com) Original Instructions
5201S-06 | DIN 2353 S (M14x1.5) Tube Nut - 2ea (the original poster lists 2 soft seal caps, which is not correct.)
9606-04-S06-14 | 1/4" JIC Male x M14x1.5 Metric Male (fits 6 mm tube) - 2ea
5202-06 | DIN 2353 Cutting Ring - 4ea (2 extra for mistakes)
R14-05-ASB | 1/4" SAE 100R14A PTFE Hose Assembly - 1ea (12") I ordered the hose assembled for extra cost. fitting1: FJX-04-04
itting2: FJX-04-04
orientation: none
inches: 12
I'm attaching the picture showing the cutting ring orientation.
I also purchased metal tie wraps and DEI heat sheilding from local auto parts store. I found this repair to be surperior to the orginal flex line and a great permanent fix.
08-01-2018, 08:23 PM
