Air conditioning isn’t just for cooling your vehicle
01-14-2016, 07:32 PM
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Air conditioning isn’t just for cooling your vehicle
Everyone knows of course, that air conditioning (A/C) cools a vehicle’s interior to keep it comfortable in hot weather. But, what many people do not know, is that A/C can do more than just cool a vehicle. There’s a reason it isn’t just called “air cooling”.
In my recent Tech Article, “Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think”, I mentioned:
“You DO NOT need to start-up your engine, then let it sit and idle to warm-up. That is a complete waste of fuel, and makes useless exhaust pollution for absolutely no good reason. Just start it up, put it in gear, and drive it easy, until it is fully warmed up.”
This was in reference to any cold motor oil, including multi-viscosity oil, being much thicker, thus much slower flowing, than normal operational temperature oil flow that engines are designed for.
But, some people told me they have to let their vehicle sit and idle to warm-up in cold damp weather, so that their defroster can work to remove the fog from the windows inside the vehicle. And if they don’t wait long enough, the defroster can actually make the inside fog even worse, to the point that if they were driving, they’d have to pull over to the side of the road and wait, because they could not see out to drive safely.
That is true, BUT ONLY if you don’t know what is available at your fingertips, in most street driven vehicles. The A/C is called air “conditioning” for a reason. It also conditions the air by acting as a dehumidifier. And A/C systems are designed to work just fine, no matter if you have the temperature set to cold, hot, or anywhere in between.
In fact, something many people don’t know, is that an air conditioning “cycle”, is either “ON” or “OFF”, like an ordinary light switch. There is no “in-between”, the cycle is either operating or it’s not. So, air conditioning systems are designed to have their “coldness” controlled by adding heater “heat” to the cold air, as desired. The amount of heat added, is what you are adjusting when you change the interior temperature controller, to a level that is warmer than max cold, aside from the recycled air or fresh air setting.
So, in cold damp weather, when you fire the vehicle up in the morning, and the windows start trying to fog up inside, just turn on the A/C, set the fan speed and the temperature heat level as desired, and the fog will very quickly disappear. That way you don’t have to let the vehicle sit there and “warm-up” before you can drive away. This works very well, no matter if you have the controls set to recycled air or fresh air. It also works very well, no matter which vents you have flowing air.
This allows you to have a comfortable interior without the inside windows being fogged up. And as the interior warms-up, you can adjust the amount of heat as desired, and leave the A/C on to prevent any fogging on the inside. In this mode, you are operating what you might call an air conditioned heater, which is a nice capability to have. But, if you want, you can turn the A/C off once the fog is all gone. And if the fog starts to return, just turn the A/C back on. You paid handsomely for this feature, so you might as well make full use of its design capabilities.
--------
For the truth about motor oil wear protection, that is not just opinion or theory, see my "TECH FACTS, NOT MYTHS" Blog, which now has over 145,000 views worldwide. You can see the Blog and my entire 170+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, which is "proven" by the Physics and Chemistry involved, and EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world Track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance Street experience (test data validation doesn’t get any better than this), along with additional motor oil tech FACTS, by going to the Blog link below. Credentials, methodology, proof, facts, data, Industry endorsements, real world validation, etc, are all included in the Blog. See for yourself, the engine you save may be your own.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
540 RAT
In my recent Tech Article, “Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think”, I mentioned:
“You DO NOT need to start-up your engine, then let it sit and idle to warm-up. That is a complete waste of fuel, and makes useless exhaust pollution for absolutely no good reason. Just start it up, put it in gear, and drive it easy, until it is fully warmed up.”
This was in reference to any cold motor oil, including multi-viscosity oil, being much thicker, thus much slower flowing, than normal operational temperature oil flow that engines are designed for.
But, some people told me they have to let their vehicle sit and idle to warm-up in cold damp weather, so that their defroster can work to remove the fog from the windows inside the vehicle. And if they don’t wait long enough, the defroster can actually make the inside fog even worse, to the point that if they were driving, they’d have to pull over to the side of the road and wait, because they could not see out to drive safely.
That is true, BUT ONLY if you don’t know what is available at your fingertips, in most street driven vehicles. The A/C is called air “conditioning” for a reason. It also conditions the air by acting as a dehumidifier. And A/C systems are designed to work just fine, no matter if you have the temperature set to cold, hot, or anywhere in between.
In fact, something many people don’t know, is that an air conditioning “cycle”, is either “ON” or “OFF”, like an ordinary light switch. There is no “in-between”, the cycle is either operating or it’s not. So, air conditioning systems are designed to have their “coldness” controlled by adding heater “heat” to the cold air, as desired. The amount of heat added, is what you are adjusting when you change the interior temperature controller, to a level that is warmer than max cold, aside from the recycled air or fresh air setting.
So, in cold damp weather, when you fire the vehicle up in the morning, and the windows start trying to fog up inside, just turn on the A/C, set the fan speed and the temperature heat level as desired, and the fog will very quickly disappear. That way you don’t have to let the vehicle sit there and “warm-up” before you can drive away. This works very well, no matter if you have the controls set to recycled air or fresh air. It also works very well, no matter which vents you have flowing air.
This allows you to have a comfortable interior without the inside windows being fogged up. And as the interior warms-up, you can adjust the amount of heat as desired, and leave the A/C on to prevent any fogging on the inside. In this mode, you are operating what you might call an air conditioned heater, which is a nice capability to have. But, if you want, you can turn the A/C off once the fog is all gone. And if the fog starts to return, just turn the A/C back on. You paid handsomely for this feature, so you might as well make full use of its design capabilities.
--------
For the truth about motor oil wear protection, that is not just opinion or theory, see my "TECH FACTS, NOT MYTHS" Blog, which now has over 145,000 views worldwide. You can see the Blog and my entire 170+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, which is "proven" by the Physics and Chemistry involved, and EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world Track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance Street experience (test data validation doesn’t get any better than this), along with additional motor oil tech FACTS, by going to the Blog link below. Credentials, methodology, proof, facts, data, Industry endorsements, real world validation, etc, are all included in the Blog. See for yourself, the engine you save may be your own.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
540 RAT
The following users liked this post:
scottg (01-16-2016)
01-16-2016, 04:42 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
In the colder weather months of the year I crack open my garage door (10") in the morning, start my car and set my Temp. control to 76 degrees about 10 minutes before I am ready to leave for work. When I get into my car there is no fog the car is warm and I am happy. I am not too concerned with the amount of pollution or the cost of the gas used. 
01-16-2016, 05:38 PM
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Member Since: Oct 2004
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In the colder weather months of the year I crack open my garage door (10") in the morning, start my car and set my Temp. control to 76 degrees about 10 minutes before I am ready to leave for work. When I get into my car there is no fog the car is warm and I am happy. I am not too concerned with the amount of pollution or the cost of the gas used.
01-16-2016, 08:19 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Everyone knows of course, that air conditioning (A/C) cools a vehicle’s interior to keep it comfortable in hot weather. But, what many people do not know, is that A/C can do more than just cool a vehicle. There’s a reason it isn’t just called “air cooling”.
In my recent Tech Article, “Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think”, I mentioned:
“You DO NOT need to start-up your engine, then let it sit and idle to warm-up. That is a complete waste of fuel, and makes useless exhaust pollution for absolutely no good reason. Just start it up, put it in gear, and drive it easy, until it is fully warmed up.”
This was in reference to any cold motor oil, including multi-viscosity oil, being much thicker, thus much slower flowing, than normal operational temperature oil flow that engines are designed for. Forgot to say bought it new in 2008 had 5w-30 mobil in it the first four years of life, now has 15,000 on clock.
But, some people told me they have to let their vehicle sit and idle to warm-up in cold damp weather, so that their defroster can work to remove the fog from the windows inside the vehicle. And if they don’t wait long enough, the defroster can actually make the inside fog even worse, to the point that if they were driving, they’d have to pull over to the side of the road and wait, because they could not see out to drive safely.
That is true, BUT ONLY if you don’t know what is available at your fingertips, in most street driven vehicles. The A/C is called air “conditioning” for a reason. It also conditions the air by acting as a dehumidifier. And A/C systems are designed to work just fine, no matter if you have the temperature set to cold, hot, or anywhere in between.
In fact, something many people don’t know, is that an air conditioning “cycle”, is either “ON” or “OFF”, like an ordinary light switch. There is no “in-between”, the cycle is either operating or it’s not. So, air conditioning systems are designed to have their “coldness” controlled by adding heater “heat” to the cold air, as desired. The amount of heat added, is what you are adjusting when you change the interior temperature controller, to a level that is warmer than max cold, aside from the recycled air or fresh air setting.
So, in cold damp weather, when you fire the vehicle up in the morning, and the windows start trying to fog up inside, just turn on the A/C, set the fan speed and the temperature heat level as desired, and the fog will very quickly disappear. That way you don’t have to let the vehicle sit there and “warm-up” before you can drive away. This works very well, no matter if you have the controls set to recycled air or fresh air. It also works very well, no matter which vents you have flowing air.
This allows you to have a comfortable interior without the inside windows being fogged up. And as the interior warms-up, you can adjust the amount of heat as desired, and leave the A/C on to prevent any fogging on the inside. In this mode, you are operating what you might call an air conditioned heater, which is a nice capability to have. But, if you want, you can turn the A/C off once the fog is all gone. And if the fog starts to return, just turn the A/C back on. You paid handsomely for this feature, so you might as well make full use of its design capabilities.
--------
For the truth about motor oil wear protection, that is not just opinion or theory, see my "TECH FACTS, NOT MYTHS" Blog, which now has over 145,000 views worldwide. You can see the Blog and my entire 170+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, which is "proven" by the Physics and Chemistry involved, and EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world Track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance Street experience (test data validation doesn’t get any better than this), along with additional motor oil tech FACTS, by going to the Blog link below. Credentials, methodology, proof, facts, data, Industry endorsements, real world validation, etc, are all included in the Blog. See for yourself, the engine you save may be your own.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
540 RAT
In my recent Tech Article, “Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think”, I mentioned:
“You DO NOT need to start-up your engine, then let it sit and idle to warm-up. That is a complete waste of fuel, and makes useless exhaust pollution for absolutely no good reason. Just start it up, put it in gear, and drive it easy, until it is fully warmed up.”
This was in reference to any cold motor oil, including multi-viscosity oil, being much thicker, thus much slower flowing, than normal operational temperature oil flow that engines are designed for. Forgot to say bought it new in 2008 had 5w-30 mobil in it the first four years of life, now has 15,000 on clock.
But, some people told me they have to let their vehicle sit and idle to warm-up in cold damp weather, so that their defroster can work to remove the fog from the windows inside the vehicle. And if they don’t wait long enough, the defroster can actually make the inside fog even worse, to the point that if they were driving, they’d have to pull over to the side of the road and wait, because they could not see out to drive safely.
That is true, BUT ONLY if you don’t know what is available at your fingertips, in most street driven vehicles. The A/C is called air “conditioning” for a reason. It also conditions the air by acting as a dehumidifier. And A/C systems are designed to work just fine, no matter if you have the temperature set to cold, hot, or anywhere in between.
In fact, something many people don’t know, is that an air conditioning “cycle”, is either “ON” or “OFF”, like an ordinary light switch. There is no “in-between”, the cycle is either operating or it’s not. So, air conditioning systems are designed to have their “coldness” controlled by adding heater “heat” to the cold air, as desired. The amount of heat added, is what you are adjusting when you change the interior temperature controller, to a level that is warmer than max cold, aside from the recycled air or fresh air setting.
So, in cold damp weather, when you fire the vehicle up in the morning, and the windows start trying to fog up inside, just turn on the A/C, set the fan speed and the temperature heat level as desired, and the fog will very quickly disappear. That way you don’t have to let the vehicle sit there and “warm-up” before you can drive away. This works very well, no matter if you have the controls set to recycled air or fresh air. It also works very well, no matter which vents you have flowing air.
This allows you to have a comfortable interior without the inside windows being fogged up. And as the interior warms-up, you can adjust the amount of heat as desired, and leave the A/C on to prevent any fogging on the inside. In this mode, you are operating what you might call an air conditioned heater, which is a nice capability to have. But, if you want, you can turn the A/C off once the fog is all gone. And if the fog starts to return, just turn the A/C back on. You paid handsomely for this feature, so you might as well make full use of its design capabilities.
--------
For the truth about motor oil wear protection, that is not just opinion or theory, see my "TECH FACTS, NOT MYTHS" Blog, which now has over 145,000 views worldwide. You can see the Blog and my entire 170+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, which is "proven" by the Physics and Chemistry involved, and EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world Track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance Street experience (test data validation doesn’t get any better than this), along with additional motor oil tech FACTS, by going to the Blog link below. Credentials, methodology, proof, facts, data, Industry endorsements, real world validation, etc, are all included in the Blog. See for yourself, the engine you save may be your own.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
540 RAT
Last edited by scottg; 01-16-2016 at 08:33 PM.