Clutch pedal hard as a rock after clutch install.
05-04-2015, 11:24 AM
#21
Never got to put the 500 miles on it. The slave started leaking before I was able to leave my street. Fluid is coming out the bottom of the bell housing. I have the worst luck. The car has been parked for a couple weeks while to put myself back together.
Time to research pulling the trans.
Now the 500 miles break in 
Time to research pulling the trans.
05-05-2015, 08:59 PM
#22
Drifting
Never got to put the 500 miles on it. The slave started leaking before I was able to leave my street. Fluid is coming out the bottom of the bell housing. I have the worst luck. The car has been parked for a couple weeks while to put myself back together.
Time to research pulling the trans.
Time to research pulling the trans.
It is not hard to do the job, just time consuming.
05-06-2015, 08:28 AM
#23
I'm hoping its the bleeder connection.
The slave is brand new from Hinson. Anyone know what kinda of warranty they come with. Can't seem to get a reply from Hinson.
I picked up a second hand vehicle lift last week to make the job easier. Just need to get the electrical wired up and I'm going to tear into it. I'm going to start with lowering down the sub frame enough to remove the bleeder and have a look inside the bell. Hopefully I'll be able to see where its leaking.
The slave is brand new from Hinson. Anyone know what kinda of warranty they come with. Can't seem to get a reply from Hinson.
I picked up a second hand vehicle lift last week to make the job easier. Just need to get the electrical wired up and I'm going to tear into it. I'm going to start with lowering down the sub frame enough to remove the bleeder and have a look inside the bell. Hopefully I'll be able to see where its leaking.
05-06-2015, 12:46 PM
#24
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '15
We just finished installing a new motor and clutch setup and we ran into problems trying to bleed the slave
The clutch pedal went solid and will not compress. It's stuck up top. We installed a new slave cylinder with a new McLeod rxt and not sure what's going on.
The pedal was stuck to the floor so we pulled it up a couple times and then it went solid. The only way to release it is to remove the Slave at the master and compress the little fitting on the master. (Fitting is in the quick connect fitting)
What i think is happening is the master and slave are not matting together properly to allow fluid to transfer. There is a little piece in the master that gets presses when u attached the slave cylinder to it to allow fluid to move. I think it's not getting pressed enough causing it to go solid.
We can open up the bleeder and disconnect the slave from the master and the pedal is still solid.
What do u guys think. My next step is to replace the master but I don't want to if I don't have to.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
The clutch pedal went solid and will not compress. It's stuck up top. We installed a new slave cylinder with a new McLeod rxt and not sure what's going on.
The pedal was stuck to the floor so we pulled it up a couple times and then it went solid. The only way to release it is to remove the Slave at the master and compress the little fitting on the master. (Fitting is in the quick connect fitting)
What i think is happening is the master and slave are not matting together properly to allow fluid to transfer. There is a little piece in the master that gets presses when u attached the slave cylinder to it to allow fluid to move. I think it's not getting pressed enough causing it to go solid.
We can open up the bleeder and disconnect the slave from the master and the pedal is still solid.
What do u guys think. My next step is to replace the master but I don't want to if I don't have to.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
Are you using a remote bleeder? If so, from who?
06-01-2015, 09:23 AM
#25
Well I found the problem. The new gm slave is shot. Lots like the Mcleod RXT took it out. Sucks to have a $1000 tied up in this RXT and Im afraid to use it. I'm debating using a different clutch so I dont have to worry about this again.
I'm waiting for Mcleod Tech to open to see what they suggest.
I was really expecting to see the bleeder line leaking.
I'm waiting for Mcleod Tech to open to see what they suggest.
I was really expecting to see the bleeder line leaking.
06-01-2015, 09:26 AM
#26
Thats exactly what we ended up doing. Worked great
You CAN take apart the slave to master connector (big black one) and remove the valve that you were talking about. Obviously fluid will be everywhere so you have to work pretty quick after you do it, but that is how mine is right now. Works fine after you get it together.
Are you using a remote bleeder? If so, from who?
Are you using a remote bleeder? If so, from who?
06-01-2015, 10:05 AM
#27
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St. Jude Donor '15
06-01-2015, 03:45 PM
#28
When the free gap clearance is not correct (not enough), then the clutch fingers are pretty much tensioned against the TP bearing constantly with the TP bearing under heavy pressure 100% of the time (over what the return spring would normally just hold the TO bearing lightly against the fingers instead), which cause too much heat, and thing start to go south from there instead.
So on that note, Mcleod may help you out, but does sound like an install clearance problem from the start.
06-01-2015, 10:50 PM
#29
whether it's McCleods problem or not it seems to be a common issue. plenty of guys on this forum with their clutches and stock slaves that get fried in a few thousand miles. I think there's a thread right now with one of the vendors asking who all has had slave failures with McCleod clutches.
06-01-2015, 11:13 PM
#30
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2013
Location: Rosewood Heights IL
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There are clutches that put much more stress on the slave seals than the RXT. It uses half of the clamping load of a high power single disk.
Stock GM slave cylinders commonly fail. It's the nature of the part. Lots of heat, and lots of pressure on a small seal.
Stock GM slave cylinders commonly fail. It's the nature of the part. Lots of heat, and lots of pressure on a small seal.
06-26-2015, 02:22 PM
#31
Clutch pedal hard as a rock after clutch install.
I finally got my car all sorted out. Very happy with it now. It made some big numbers on the dyno. I was very surprised 
811 wheel hp on only 12lbs. Not too shabby for a stock L96 6.0L with a cam.
811 wheel hp on only 12lbs. Not too shabby for a stock L96 6.0L with a cam.
Last edited by stephenpen; 06-26-2015 at 05:48 PM.
06-28-2015, 10:50 PM
#34
Clutch pedal hard as a rock after clutch install.
I'm still running the rxt. It seems to be working great. Turns out I got shipped a gm slave cylinder without a throw out bearing and we never noticed it. That's why it failed so fast.
So far so good with the rxt
So far so good with the rxt
06-30-2015, 06:59 PM
#35
Instructor
Glad you got it all sorted out. I have another option for anyone who runs into this in the future. I could not get the quick connect together when I put a new slave in mine. I ended up taking the fitting off of the used slave and putting it on the new slave.
01-26-2017, 10:26 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
Clutch quick disconnect assembly.
I was reading this thread because I was having trouble connecting the clutch line quick-disconnect. After about an hour of frustration, I came up with a technique that worked well. I put the two lines loosely together. Then I rotated the black piece so the flat was on top. I then inserted the clip from the top just a little bit. I then used my right hand to pull the two lines together compressing the check valve. At this time, all I had to do was take my right thumb and push down on the clip part way. This was enough to hold everything together. I gripped the two hoses again with my right hand and pulled them together and pushed the clip all the way down with my right index finger. All Done!
John
John
08-23-2018, 04:19 AM
#37
Intermediate
Either the center line coupling not connected correctly and blocking the flow of the fluid from the master to the slave,
Or, you did not check your free play of the TB to clutch fingers, and when you installed the clutch, now have the clutch fully disengaged with the slave pinned all the way back in it's rest position.
Or, you did not check your free play of the TB to clutch fingers, and when you installed the clutch, now have the clutch fully disengaged with the slave pinned all the way back in it's rest position.