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You running a c5 or C6 shifter shaft, and how is the heat in the ****.
I was going to lathe up a **** to match the MGW race **** for the C-6 shaft that I'm running on the MGW shifter, but if heat is not a issue in the ****, then may go polished SS instead.
Couldn't tell you if it is an C5 or C6 shaft. I simply ordered the threaded shaft and took it from there.
Couldn't tell you if heat is or isn't an issue, everyone has different tolerance. However, I can tell you these - easy to check for yourself by removing your **** after driven. You already knew that right?
Couldn't tell you if it is an C5 or C6 shaft. I simply ordered the threaded shaft and took it from there.
Couldn't tell you if heat is or isn't an issue, everyone has different tolerance. However, I can tell you these - easy to check for yourself by removing your **** after driven. You already knew that right?
The C5 **** is the threaded shaft, while the C-6 shaft is the one that uses the side screw on the **** to hold the **** to the button.
The MGW C-6 shaft has O rings at the top section for the ****, and was hoping that you where running it with the metal **** to give heat feed back if the O rings where making that much of a difference on **** heat.
With the a steel **** threaded on a C-5 type shaft, even with gloves on, the **** was getting too hot for my taste during high speed road course runs.
The C5 **** is the threaded shaft, while the C-6 shaft is the one that uses the side screw on the **** to hold the **** to the button.
The MGW C-6 shaft has O rings at the top section for the ****, and was hoping that you where running it with the metal **** to give heat feed back if the O rings where making that much of a difference on **** heat.
With the a steel **** threaded on a C-5 type shaft, even with gloves on, the **** was getting too hot for my taste during high speed road course runs.
Sounded like a bunch of jibbish!
My **** making for the MGW is not my first rodeo. Started back in '10 with their second generation, made two different metal *****. With one residing in my friend's super charged C6 with full on Z06 trans/rear end - BTW, his not complaining about heat. Made current "metal ****" after changed out for their third generation, along with the lower box earlier this year. All with "C5" threaded shafts - with the intention of making my own **** from the get go.
Responded to see if you know what you talking about! You mentioned "I was going to lathe up a **** to match the MGW race **** for the C-6 shaft that I'm running on the MGW shifter, but if heat is not a issue in the ****, then may go polished SS instead." - then, you must have enough skill to - "lathe up" - and have knowledge of selecting the suitable material for an insert adapter to isolate direct heat conduction - Right? Maybe for pure personal satisfaction, make that adapter double or even triple lead, simply just for pure joy?
"With the a steel **** threaded on a C-5 type shaft, even with gloves on, the **** was getting too hot for my taste during high speed road course runs." Now you saying you are a road racer too? The more you come up with these postings, the more I got to know you!!!
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If heat is my problem, unless I am a fool, would I continue my quest with metal *****?
In addition, not because of heat, using rare wood been in my mind for a long time, insert/adapter is designed, selected Koa or Lignum Vitae, but must be from ancient stock with unique composition. Stay tune.......
To see if I can learn from some real experts with "real" machining/tool making skills to share.
For contrast, had to re-polish the grooves to remove precipitation effect and unfortunately, probably due to lighting, other shades of rainbow are not visible as in real life.
Pictures on my titanium motorcycle header and muffler bracket does a better job showing the rainbow effect:
Delrin is great stuff + you paid at a great price!
Nearly half for what Hardbar was charging for their Delrin ****! But then, everything from them were high priced. But I don't know if theirs was 1.375 od.
Another interesting and stable material is micarta based from colored cloth stock, very interesting composition. Or custom G10 based on colored glass cloth that is also interesting. Such as displayed on some custom knife handle.
I have a 2009 MGW shifter w/ 6061-T6 AL shifter (similar to the one below)...I had the top half wrapped in leather but not the very top. It gets really hot and holds the heat, especially out here in PHX area. I re-did it using black delrin, does not get as hot, cool off quickly and thus no longer need a leather wrap.
It is 1.5" diameter and about 4" taller than stock for shorter traveler between shifter and steering wheel.
Aluminum is certainly a good heat conductor and efficient used as heat sink/radiator. While cres or titanium is relatively poor for heat transfer. Same rational I choose to stick with oem stainless fuel rails instead of the aftermarket aluminum to keep fuel supply marginally cooler. Aluminum's attribute as heat sink, leads me to these heat sinks:
I also feel 1.5" nominal od is a nice size. That is also what I started out with, from there I started from the bottom, with 15, 10 then 5 degree, transit taper to 0 degree on the last portion and ended with double radius on top for smooth transitional feel, whether it is for shake hand or palm down position. Total length 3.430", internally threaded to 3.180" depth, internally fine tuned, adjusted for the top of shift stem to the top outside **** equal to .750", fixed. At that adjustment, provides my forearm an level and natural position, with elbow resting on console.
To better illustrate final shape of **** I turned, close fingers to assumed an loose hand shake, space on small finger is smaller, loose closed fist formed an egg shaped cavity, with the middle larger, then taper to smaller on top. That shape was how I based during turning and angular taper shaping operation of the ****. Checked and rechecked, it ended up with an gratifying anatomical fit to fill my hand, while wrapping around the ****.
Very refreshing finally started to share ideas with others having an inquisitive mind set.
Very nice work. I did not know Ti would polish out like that.
Ti is tough, took me close to four hours started with 80 grit wet/dry ended up with jeweler's rouge to get that polish. Should have cut time a little shorter, but I cheaped out recycling previous used 800 to 1500, because these finishing paper are expensive. The shown polish was actually on its preliminary stage of things to come.
When I was not satisfied with the heat treat patina on the first go around, patina was tenacious, spent close to two hours to remove/repolish. This time around, among other grits, I used fresh 800 up and including 2000 grit before the two final polishing compound grit. The resulted mirror finish has an unbelievable depth appearance before control heat treating to get the almost abstract patina depth I sought.
Alloys are fun to work with, but it does take patience + a little trade skill.
07-29-2014, 02:33 PM
Evolution on my shift **** - Rev. 3 for MGW Shifter
