Tick Master Cyl.
#1
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Location: Cincinnati Ohio
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Tick Master Cyl.
I recently paid TSP for a tick master cyl because my clutch stuck to the floor. I ordered the part from TSP on monday last week and the part has yet to ship. Needless to say, frustrated with no Vette. I am getting a refund from TSP and need suggestions for other comparable MS that are available without a three week wait.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
Melting Slicks
I've got to ask; are you sure your problem isn't the slave cylinder due to clutch dust contamination??? or the clutch it's self (coming apart)? Also you may want to check your clutch return spring.....just a suggestion.
#5
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It actually is the slave, I was going to upgrade my master cyl. since they say these are the weak points and my mechanic will be down there.
#6
Order the tick with the one piece solid fluid line (and a remote bleeder line).
The factory two piece line with center connector has three orifice restrictors in it (what cause the pedal to the floor stick under high rev shifting), and if you get the Tick unit with the quick connect hose to use the stock slave cylinder hose, it will still end up with one orifice restrictor at the slave cylinder connection point.
The factory line as a ID reduction at the end fitting to the master, at the middle connector, and at the fitting to the slave (can be drilled out and the lines flushed through).
As for the reason for the restrictors, it to save the drive line so you don't clutch dump, but at the cost of wear to the clutch instead since it will not lock up fast enough, and just end up spinning the clutch instead.
And to back it up on the clutch to floor sticking problem, under High revs, due to the stock clutch weight/inertia centrifugal force , it's wants to return to engaged position slower. Coupled this with the fluid less than clean and the restrictors that slows the fluid down returning to the master cylinder that the slave has to push back through the lines, this is why you get the clutch pedal struck to the floor problem at high shifts.
Simply, granted that the tick system makes the clutch engagement/disengage lower in the pedal when you adjust it correctly (and you don't have to fear of it wearing out since it steel walled), but if you are changing out the master for stuck pedal syndrome alone, then just drilling the restrictions out of the stock lines solves that problem.
Note, still want to install a remote bleeder line, since clutch dust contaminated fluid wears out the cylinders]plungers faster than normal (especially the master cylinder since it plastic walled).