Height Adjustment Bolts
#3
Not sure if youre aware, but lingenfelter and vansteel make delrin replacements
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...p=1949&ID=3476
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...4#.U76Hj7FA6Iw
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...p=1949&ID=3476
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...4#.U76Hj7FA6Iw
Last edited by el es tu; 07-10-2014 at 08:32 AM.
#5
SUBVETTE
Thread Starter
Not sure if youre aware, but lingenfelter and vansteel make delrin replacements
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...p=1949&ID=3476
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...4#.U76Hj7FA6Iw
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...p=1949&ID=3476
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...4#.U76Hj7FA6Iw
Have you used either of these? and what's the verdict? I understand that Delrin has no cushioning effect.
#6
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
First I cut the stock bolts, then I bought aftermarket lowering bolts.
My experience was so bad with aftermarket lowering bolts I bought coil-overs. It took me two years of listing in the for sale section to finally get the OE bolts to put back into my springs in case I want to remove the coil-overs..
My experience was so bad with aftermarket lowering bolts I bought coil-overs. It took me two years of listing in the for sale section to finally get the OE bolts to put back into my springs in case I want to remove the coil-overs..
#7
First I cut the stock bolts, then I bought aftermarket lowering bolts.
My experience was so bad with aftermarket lowering bolts I bought coil-overs. It took me two years of listing in the for sale section to finally get the OE bolts to put back into my springs in case I want to remove the coil-overs..
My experience was so bad with aftermarket lowering bolts I bought coil-overs. It took me two years of listing in the for sale section to finally get the OE bolts to put back into my springs in case I want to remove the coil-overs..
I like to do some R&D with UHMW and different grade of Delrin I have laying around. Need to know the naked dimension and physical attribute of the OEM lowering bolt without the rubber bushing.
#9
^^^Not an issue!
I got both high grade UHMW & Delrin laying around. When I decided to change them out, just need to put the car up on stands, remove/strip rubber then make them up to suite. Set up will be the same for 1 or 2 sets, most likely will have round/radius end shape, better to follow arc movement of control arms, make them out of two different materials, try one then the other and decide which for keeps. Endless stimulating project helps keep brain storming juice flowing.
I got both high grade UHMW & Delrin laying around. When I decided to change them out, just need to put the car up on stands, remove/strip rubber then make them up to suite. Set up will be the same for 1 or 2 sets, most likely will have round/radius end shape, better to follow arc movement of control arms, make them out of two different materials, try one then the other and decide which for keeps. Endless stimulating project helps keep brain storming juice flowing.
#10
From what Ive read on this site you need to make sure the spring contact points on the control arms are cleaned up/polished to ensure theres no binding, but other than that there shouldnt be any issues
#11
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Thread Starter
I have a set of hardbar/vansteel bolts, but have been holding off the install until I can get the car corner balanced at a local race shop
From what Ive read on this site you need to make sure the spring contact points on the control arms are cleaned up/polished to ensure theres no binding, but other than that there shouldnt be any issues
From what Ive read on this site you need to make sure the spring contact points on the control arms are cleaned up/polished to ensure theres no binding, but other than that there shouldnt be any issues
#12
As found on mine, there is no direct spring contact points, but contact area under OEM rubber bushing on control arm was lapped smooth with road grits after 28 K miles. As an temporary aid, I put a layer of graphite powder on contact point after vacuum up miles of accumulated dust, sand, grit and pebble before reinstallation of subframe assembly.
Road grit will always be a problem. With given exposure condition, not so much with the attaching bolt grade, actual contact/cushion material choice is paramount and will certainly be a compromise to a certain degree.
Interesting but relatively, a simple project for those having the resource/capability for sure.
#14
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#15
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dofdear@***.net
#17
Short of that, all you can do is get the car on flat ground, and break out a tape to measure from the ground to the fenders to get you in the ball park of 4 corner balancing instead.
#18
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Thread Starter
Contact me off line. I just replaced the rear spring (cracked) and would part with it and/or the adjustment bolts/pads. You only pay for shipping.
dofdear@***.net
dofdear@***.net
#19
Race Director
If you want the best handling then have the car corner balanced.
If you just want to lower the car for appearance then measure to the fender lip and adjust for apperance.
#20