mfoti

I never thought installing a pulley would ever be a subject of such controversy and failures. Getting ready to put mine back on. I have a couple of questions?

1. Is the ARP bolt longer than the GM bolt to allow for seating the pulley without a special install tool?

2. Autozone loans a pulley install tool. Does it not work?

3. I plan on heating the pulley to 200 degrees. Can i get the old crank bolt threaded far enough to safely seat the pulley?

4. Still so many people disagree on installation with a Manual transmission. With the wheels on the ground, in 4th gear, with brakes applied.. is that not enough to apply the necessary torque? Do the wheels turn while torquing under those conditions? I saw someone on the forum wrapped the accessory belt around the pulley and locked it in place. I may try that if holding the breaks doesn't work.

Dano523

You need the long threaded rod installer tool.

The stock bolt is not long enough to get a good enough bit into the threads needed to suck the HB on the shaft without stripping out the bolt or crank threads.

The tool threads all the way into the crank threads, then the bearing with nut is used to press the HB onto the shaft instead (while you hold the end nut so the tool/crank does not spin).

ANGRY Z

Definitely don't use the hold bolt alone to try to draw it on. The last thing you want to do is ruin your crank snout threads. Oh, and since you are in there... (If you didn't already plan on it) You may as well pin the crank. Just in case later you go FI. You will save yourself a lot of work by doing it now since you are already there.

mfoti

ok i am convinced. does anyone know if the autozone loaner tool works or do i need to get the rod tool?

Outside of adding a supercharger does pinning the crank add any insurance for the pulley coming off in NA applications?

ANGRY Z

If I'm not mistaken, the HB installer tool from Harbor Freight and Autozone will get the job done. Its been awhile since I have done one. Pinning the crank does only one thing: It keeps the HB from spinning on the snout, due to high loads, such as those produced when driving a supercharger. Surely wont hurt anything, even if you stay NA.

DubsAndSubs

I had my back wheels on the ground, trans in 6th, and wife holding the brakes, and was able to easily torque the bolt to 250.

mfoti

Ok, i have the installer tool to get the pulley back on. However, should i be worried about using the old bolt to "seat" the pulley at 240 ft-lbs? Should a buy an ARP bolt to do that? How do people end up breaking this bolt off? It seems to have happened more than once on this forum. Should i be concerned?

LD85

Autozone has an install tool Looks like the one in this, 2nd from bottom pic, also I bought a ARP bolt for my C4

mfoti

Yup.. that is what i have. I have a brand new GM bolt but now i am afraid of using the old bolt to seat the pulley at 240 ft-lbs. I have heard of at least 2 cases where the old bolt broke in the crank. Should i be safe and just get the ARP bolt? Is the ARP bolt stronger?

Unreal

Once the damper is on far enough with the install tool, just use the new bolt and go until it torques. Pretty simple. No need to reuse the old bolt for anything.

LD85

One the damper is seated, all you are doing is holding it in place with the new bolt, no worries.

irok

the old bolt is supposed to be used to seat the hb.remove old bolt and check depth once hb installed.should be between 2.40 and 4.48mm outside edge of hb to end of crank snout. the reason you use the old bolt is because the new GM bolt can not be reused.you just wasted it if you reused to check the depth.you will never break the GM bolt torqueing it to 240 lbs/ft. the ARP bolt can be reused but the proper method is to use your original old bolt.how are you rocket scientists checking your hb depth without removing your old bolt?seems a shame to do this job and have to do over once you start the car and find out the hb not properly seated

LD85

If you use the install tool with the bearing, you can take the threaded stud out and measure then put it back in if you need to drive it deeper, or you can use a straight edge to align the ribbed pulleys by laying the ruler inside the pulley(s).

I've never installed one on a C6, but it sounds pretty basic to me,

mfoti

Makes sense. So how are people breaking off bolts in the crank? How does that happen? They did it somehow and I don't want to make the same mistake.

LD85

A bolt can break off by bottoming out the bolt, if there is a shoulder on the crank, or a shoulder in the hub ID, then it will only go on that far.

irok

its much easier to do the job properly once. check your factory service manual

irok

by not using a torque wrench. the proper bolt can not bottom out on anything and you can not break a properly lubricated ARP or GM hb bolt by torqueing to 240 lbs/ft

mfoti

Thanks. I am buying the ARP bolt. Simplifies the procedure. Tighten to 240 ft-lbs.

mfoti

So I have a new GM bolt and a new ARP bolt in hand. Which one would you use? I know the ARP is reusable but which one is less likely to come lose? Should i go with torque to yield GM or steady 240 ft.-lbs on the ARP?

AND.. would you use loctite or ARP lube? Anyone ever read up on torquing cycles on the ARP website?

msd127

if you go with arp bolt (which i did) the arp folks say use lube only, no loctite.