OBX headers/xpipe
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: VA Beach VA
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good info guys, thanks. The o2 extensions came in on Friday, and the headers should be in on Monday. I might live dangerously and pull the manifolds tomorrow so I can just get down on it when it comes. Hopefully, I get the right part. Is coating them a must? Or will I be good with the plug covers? I didn't have any issues on my c5z
#26
I have bought 3 different sets of OBX's for 3 different vehicles and had zero issues with any until the last set I got. The set for my LS2 drivers side flange was jacked. Was warped and did not seal properly. So, make sure you check this out... Of course it wasn't until I started it up that I discovered the exhaust leak at the head. Not cool.
#27
Good info guys, thanks. The o2 extensions came in on Friday, and the headers should be in on Monday. I might live dangerously and pull the manifolds tomorrow so I can just get down on it when it comes. Hopefully, I get the right part. Is coating them a must? Or will I be good with the plug covers? I didn't have any issues on my c5z
If you do go that route, look into swaintech white lightning coating; its much thicker than the stuff the other companies use
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: VA Beach VA
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got my *** kicked today. Pulled the xpipe no problem, finally got out the driver side manifold, but the passenger side -is still in the car. It's stuck pulling from the top, stuck pulling from bottom. Did u guys try to unbolt the cats from the manifold(making it a 2 piece). I tried, seemed like they were stripping so I gave up. Thinking of dremeling off 2 of the 4 studs tomorrow so I can slide it out of the bottom(on the nut side, as to not break integrity). What a pain. The install should be a lot easier, I hope.
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: VA Beach VA
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got it! Just looked at an article for c6 Z06, not c6. The two oil sump lines need to be disconnected, as well as the starter cables(which I did). Gonna get my Jim Beam on now, and hit it hard in the morning.
#30
Race Director
Awesome notes, I'm watching from a distance, mine should arrive in a week or so
#33
Race Director
When you get the mid pipe back on, please let me know how much clearance there is from the top of the mid pipe to the Tunnel Plate.
Is there 1.0" gap or more etc?
Also, how long is the Tunnel plate?
Is there 1.0" gap or more etc?
Also, how long is the Tunnel plate?
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: VA Beach VA
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4 hours today...still cant manage to get that passenger side manifold out. removed the starter, those sump lines...EFF this. im cutting the downpipe off. i wanted to keep it in good condition in case VA state inspectors wont pass me with headers, but oh well. i have 12 mos.
#35
Drifting
dude just get a breaker bar and turn the nuts that mate the cats with the manifold, they will snap, I guarantee it. you may want to use a half inch breaker bar I broke the 3-8 one.
#36
Melting Slicks
soak the top and bottom of each bolt with pb blaster for a few hours. you will need to keep them wet. then when you start to try removing the bolts or nuts try tightening them a little first then try loosening them.this is what I had to do to remove mine.
good luck!
good luck!
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: VA Beach VA
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did it, cut the down pipe but ITS OUT!! Now that they're out, I'll work on those bolts at a later date, and take the down pipe to an exhaust shop to re weld. Had to close up shop as it got dark.
-drivers side is mostly in(not all bolts in)
-since I removed the starter and some chasis grounds, I'm looking for some wiring pics(always label!) as I don't recall exactly where they all go.
-question? Do I need rear o2 extensions as well?? Will I have to drill holes in the tunnel plate for the rerouting of wires?
-this has been the biggest bitch. Even the 4 day cam/valve spring installation in my c5z wasn't this bad. It better sound like a champ.
-drivers side is mostly in(not all bolts in)
-since I removed the starter and some chasis grounds, I'm looking for some wiring pics(always label!) as I don't recall exactly where they all go.
-question? Do I need rear o2 extensions as well?? Will I have to drill holes in the tunnel plate for the rerouting of wires?
-this has been the biggest bitch. Even the 4 day cam/valve spring installation in my c5z wasn't this bad. It better sound like a champ.
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: VA Beach VA
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#39
Melting Slicks
I did it, cut the down pipe but ITS OUT!! Now that they're out, I'll work on those bolts at a later date, and take the down pipe to an exhaust shop to re weld. Had to close up shop as it got dark.
-drivers side is mostly in(not all bolts in)
-since I removed the starter and some chasis grounds, I'm looking for some wiring pics(always label!) as I don't recall exactly where they all go.
-question? Do I need rear o2 extensions as well?? Will I have to drill holes in the tunnel plate for the rerouting of wires?
-this has been the biggest bitch. Even the 4 day cam/valve spring installation in my c5z wasn't this bad. It better sound like a champ.
-drivers side is mostly in(not all bolts in)
-since I removed the starter and some chasis grounds, I'm looking for some wiring pics(always label!) as I don't recall exactly where they all go.
-question? Do I need rear o2 extensions as well?? Will I have to drill holes in the tunnel plate for the rerouting of wires?
-this has been the biggest bitch. Even the 4 day cam/valve spring installation in my c5z wasn't this bad. It better sound like a champ.