GrinderZ06

Since I plan to do more HPDE's I decided to change the heads on my Z06 (trying to avoid a dropped valve) and while in there I figure why not change the cam.

I''ve done head/cam swaps on plenty of cars in the past, never a C6. I figure, WTH it can't be that bad, I'll do it myself!

So yesterday I started tearing her down, and tearing, and tearing! After removing the heads and intake I realized I would need to either remove the rack & pinion or drop the front cradle in order to remove the crank balancer

Once I removed the balancer and the timing chain cover, I realized the oil pump would not come off unless the oil pan was loosened. So I'm loosening the oil pan only to find that the oil cooler and dry sump lines need to be removed to reach the oil pan bolts

I finally got the cam out just today....11 hours total to get the heads off and cam out!! I hope I can reassemble this thing.

dennis50nj

you made it that far the rest is cake

Gabbiani

The steering rack really is the worst part. Heads alone on our cars aren't bad at all.

Headers/plugs/wires etc are far easier than 4th gens.

Bill Curlee

If it were me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I would purchase a set of ARP Head studs. You will thank me after you finish the reinstallation!

GrinderZ06

You're right, the heads are not that bad but the cam makes up for it! LOL!

GrinderZ06

Bill, what's the advantage of the ARP studs? I just ordered new GM head bolts, but if there's a compelling reason for the ARP's I'll get them.

blkbrd69

You dont have to pull lines, use a swivel socket "Snap on works best" and just loosen rears to about 1/8" on front. This will allow you to pry pan down 1/16" on front for clearance.

I use a couple of 1/16" shims on either side of pan to hold it down and use a shim under oil pump to keep from tearing gasket upon installation.

ARP head bolts are very nice.