Originally Posted by truckplay

there has to be a weird harmonic imbalance in the crank shaft or transmission. I would think the odds of 2 bad torque tubes has to be real low.

Originally Posted by gsbryant

It can't be m2w causing that right as it doesn't have anything to do with either the torque tube or torque convertor directly, or does it throw the whole system out of a harmonic balance?

Originally Posted by Joe_G

All the m2w does is open the fuse and open your exhaust flaps. No way it could be affecting your torque tube.

I wonder if the mounting flanges of your ring gear or torque converter were built slightly out of spec/round. That's the only thing I can think of that would cause this two times in a row.

Is it the forward bearing or rear bearing that goes out?

What are the symptoms when it goes out? Is there vibration even when you got the new tube before the bearing went out?

Originally Posted by RicK T

They aren't reusing the drive shaft are they? Just asking for clarity. TIA

Originally Posted by gsbryant

I believe they are asking for the entire assembly as the first order was only the tube with nothing in it. That was the reason for the delay in getting my car.

Wouldn't the entire assembly also include a new drive shaft?

I will have to ask them and make sure... Thank you

Originally Posted by gsbryant

I was asked what indicated I had this problem.
Best way to describe it is your car will begin to sound like a Model T and have metallic scraping and knocking noises which are consistent with the engine speed. Mostly you hear them near a wall like a drive through, but you can also feel it when at idle or braking. It is a separate sound from the injector tick and louder. The problem can be induced more prevalently according to the dealer power braking.

Originally Posted by hydbyj

i own a 2009 base corvette with the A6 automatic. i wasn't satisfied with the performance ie. 430 hp...it felt like a lucky to reach 300hp. i had it tuned and installed a cam and 3.42 gears. Chuck cow did a fantastic job, the car was transformed to a rocket. i took it to the track to see what my time slips would be, after the third pass i felt a vibration and stopped. it (the vibration) got progressively worse. find out the propeller shaft which is inside the torque tube was twisted. it required replacing the entire assembly. the torque tube itself is just a housing with no moving parts....the propeller shaft is a driveshaft that if out of balance will cause vibrations and the scraping noises you describe. on either end of the propeller shaft are two rubber and braided material that replaces what used to be universal joints, these also can fail.to replace the torque tube only is about as stupid a procedure i can imagine. it is the moving parts inside that matters. the original propeller shaft is supposed to be capable of handling up to 1100 hp. my car was nowhere near that and failed. hope this helps to clarify your situation.

jerry

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:

Originally Posted by gsbryant View Post
I was asked what indicated I had this problem.
Best way to describe it is your car will begin to sound like a Model T and have metallic scraping and knocking noises which are consistent with the engine speed. Mostly you hear them near a wall like a drive through, but you can also feel it when at idle or braking. It is a separate sound from the injector tick and louder. The problem can be induced more prevalently according to the dealer power braking.
Here's more on the subject from Chuck CoW:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1582774982-post9.html

Originally Posted by RicK T

Here's more on the subject from Chuck CoW:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1582774982-post9.html

Originally Posted by gsbryant

I have a 2011 Grand Sport with 30k and will have the 2nd torque tube installed next week since owning the car. I don't race it, burn the tires, and actually haven't even had the car over 95 mph. The only mods are mild to wild, and added Eastwood sound deadener throughout the car. My question is if mild to wild would be having any impact on the bearings failing due to the vibration added. I'd be surprised if that was the cause but I'm wanting to know if anyone out there thinks it's a possibility. I've searched the forum and haven't seen any discussions related to m2w. Any other suggestions to ask the dealer to look into are welcome. I'm frustrated this seems to be recurring. My car is in the shop on average for this problem up to 2 weeks each time. This has been due to parts being ordered and delays in shipping mostly. They always replace the torque tube entirely over bearing replacement. They said the labor to tear it apart to replace the bearings would be more than the assembly just being replaced as a unit.

Originally Posted by Chuck CoW

Thank you guys.


Yes, these torque tubes and isolators (guibos) do go bad. Typically, the outer housing or "complete torque tube" does not need replacing
provided the inner shaft has not caused major damage inside the other
when it fails.

Both shaft and guibos need to be replaced at the same time and a shaft that "looks" straight usually is NOT.

A "SLIGHT" bend will turn intro a noise making monster if you try to reuse a shaft that's no good.

A complete housing (and tube) replacement at the dealer an covers more problems with one part, but regardless you need

someone familiar with how these work or you'll end up wit the same problem time after time.

Don't feel foolish having to ask for help a second time....I've seen a few cars bite my hand more than once!

Fix it right the first time.
Chuck CoW