Disabled my shift lock...finally.
02-04-2014, 01:48 PM
#21
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Fontana California
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I did this "fix" on my 2005 a couple of years ago.
I offered to help Sparky (ufso) to do the same "fix" to his 2005.
A mutual friend of Sparky and I was having the same problem with his 2007 A6.
After reading several forum posts about the 2006+ A6 shifter being different, I was not sure if we would be able to do the same "fix" with the 2007, but we were willing to give it a try.
Turns out ....the 2007 A6 shifter has the same solenoid controlled latch that fails in the 2005 A4 shifter and the "fix" was the same.
I'm using the word fix in quotes ("fix") because by doing this "fix" you are disabling the shifter lock mechanism which is considered a safety feature (do so at your own risk). The "correct" fix would be to spend a lot of money to replace the whole shifter assembly (that could fail again).
Two helpful hints that I didn't see anyone else post:
#1 - After you remove the radio surround, as seen here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...l-removal.html
You also need to remove the shifter boot housing, there are (2 prong) release tabs located on the shifter boot housing (one towards the dash side and the other towards the center console side). To release these tabs, you need to pinch them together while pulling up on the shift boot at the same time. We used 2 small flat head screw drivers at each side of the tab to push them together.
Here is a drawing I made to "hopefully" explain this better:
#2 – Make sure the orange shift indicator (the indicator that shows you what gear you are in when you shift gears) is working properly before you reassemble everything back together. The shift indicator connects to the shifter via a small round tab that is inserted into a hole in a plastic part located on the side of the shifter shaft. It will likely come un-done when you pull up on the shift boot. It’s easy to put back together, but it can also be easily overlooked during reassembly. The red arrow below shows where the shift indicator comes disconnected from the shifter.
I offered to help Sparky (ufso) to do the same "fix" to his 2005.
A mutual friend of Sparky and I was having the same problem with his 2007 A6.
After reading several forum posts about the 2006+ A6 shifter being different, I was not sure if we would be able to do the same "fix" with the 2007, but we were willing to give it a try.
Turns out ....the 2007 A6 shifter has the same solenoid controlled latch that fails in the 2005 A4 shifter and the "fix" was the same.
I'm using the word fix in quotes ("fix") because by doing this "fix" you are disabling the shifter lock mechanism which is considered a safety feature (do so at your own risk). The "correct" fix would be to spend a lot of money to replace the whole shifter assembly (that could fail again).
Two helpful hints that I didn't see anyone else post:
#1 - After you remove the radio surround, as seen here:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...l-removal.html
You also need to remove the shifter boot housing, there are (2 prong) release tabs located on the shifter boot housing (one towards the dash side and the other towards the center console side). To release these tabs, you need to pinch them together while pulling up on the shift boot at the same time. We used 2 small flat head screw drivers at each side of the tab to push them together.
Here is a drawing I made to "hopefully" explain this better:
#2 – Make sure the orange shift indicator (the indicator that shows you what gear you are in when you shift gears) is working properly before you reassemble everything back together. The shift indicator connects to the shifter via a small round tab that is inserted into a hole in a plastic part located on the side of the shifter shaft. It will likely come un-done when you pull up on the shift boot. It’s easy to put back together, but it can also be easily overlooked during reassembly. The red arrow below shows where the shift indicator comes disconnected from the shifter.
Thank you v8rx7com (Pete) for trying and fixing my shifter, and thank you too my friend Sparky for hosting the fix in your beautiful house. I thought too that A4 and A6 are different, but we were surprised that
it wasn't.. yes me and my friend were both happy camper.. thanks again Pete, you da man!!!!
Here's my 2007 A6 shifter before Pete snipped off the control latch..
11-26-2014, 01:01 PM
#22
Racer
Another BIG thanks for posting all the pictures and info on how to do this!! 
This forum is GREAT place! 
Been putting off doing this for awhile, but starting to get worried the putting forward pressure on the shifter would stopping working and leave me stranded. The only thing I did different was just to snip off the pawl instead of tying it back.
This forum is GREAT place! Been putting off doing this for awhile, but starting to get worried the putting forward pressure on the shifter would stopping working and leave me stranded. The only thing I did different was just to snip off the pawl instead of tying it back.
12-02-2014, 09:07 AM
#24
Race Director
I still have to push the brake to start, but dont need to to put in gear, also dont need to put ignition switch in on position to move shifter to let car roll back or push in staging lanes or on a trailer
01-14-2015, 02:52 AM
#25
1st Gear
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How it Works
Well after reading this thread and a few more about this problem I decided what is needed is a clear description about how the park lockout actually works. (I read the service manual from pages 7-112 > 7-122 of Volume 3) Here is a summary:
First, there are 3 modules that are involved in the control of the park lockout. The Body Control Module (BCM), the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR), and the Transmission Control Module (TCM) plus the Break Light Switch, the Park Switch, and the (infamous) Shift Lock Control Solenoid (also referred to as the park lockout solenoid). Also, there is a serial data link that communicates signals between the BCM, the RCDLR, and the TCM required to activate the park lockout solenoid. All of these units must work properly to release the gear shift park lock. All the electrical system parts can be functioning correctly, but if the correct data signals are not sent nothing happens. Here is a summary of how it works:
1. The brake pedal activates the break switch. That sends a voltage to the brake pedal position sensor in the BCM. That causes a digital signal to be sent to the RCDLR. Inside the RCDLR is a lock control solenoid that supplies the ground for the park lockout solenoid after receiving the digital signal. (If the break light come on or the engine will start, there is nothing wrong with the break light switch.)
2. The TCM sends out a digital signal to indicate the gear selection. This signal is sent to the Shift Lever. The signal must be “Park” for the park lockout solenoid to function. (when it is shifted out of park the solenoid is deactivated so that it won’t waste power or overheat while driving)
3. The engine starts. The ignition circuit sends battery positive voltage to energize the park lockout solenoid.
Therefore there are 2 circuits that must be completed to activate the park lockout solenoid. The battery power by way of the ignition switch, and the ground by way of the break switch. With the TCM sensing the transmission is actually in park.
If all of that works correctly you can now shift out of park!
First, there are 3 modules that are involved in the control of the park lockout. The Body Control Module (BCM), the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR), and the Transmission Control Module (TCM) plus the Break Light Switch, the Park Switch, and the (infamous) Shift Lock Control Solenoid (also referred to as the park lockout solenoid). Also, there is a serial data link that communicates signals between the BCM, the RCDLR, and the TCM required to activate the park lockout solenoid. All of these units must work properly to release the gear shift park lock. All the electrical system parts can be functioning correctly, but if the correct data signals are not sent nothing happens. Here is a summary of how it works:
1. The brake pedal activates the break switch. That sends a voltage to the brake pedal position sensor in the BCM. That causes a digital signal to be sent to the RCDLR. Inside the RCDLR is a lock control solenoid that supplies the ground for the park lockout solenoid after receiving the digital signal. (If the break light come on or the engine will start, there is nothing wrong with the break light switch.)
2. The TCM sends out a digital signal to indicate the gear selection. This signal is sent to the Shift Lever. The signal must be “Park” for the park lockout solenoid to function. (when it is shifted out of park the solenoid is deactivated so that it won’t waste power or overheat while driving)
3. The engine starts. The ignition circuit sends battery positive voltage to energize the park lockout solenoid.
Therefore there are 2 circuits that must be completed to activate the park lockout solenoid. The battery power by way of the ignition switch, and the ground by way of the break switch. With the TCM sensing the transmission is actually in park.
If all of that works correctly you can now shift out of park!
01-14-2015, 08:53 AM
#26
Race Director
Well after reading this thread and a few more about this problem I decided what is needed is a clear description about how the park lockout actually works. (I read the service manual from pages 7-112 > 7-122 of Volume 3) Here is a summary:
First, there are 3 modules that are involved in the control of the park lockout. The Body Control Module (BCM), the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR), and the Transmission Control Module (TCM) plus the Break Light Switch, the Park Switch, and the (infamous) Shift Lock Control Solenoid (also referred to as the park lockout solenoid). Also, there is a serial data link that communicates signals between the BCM, the RCDLR, and the TCM required to activate the park lockout solenoid. All of these units must work properly to release the gear shift park lock. All the electrical system parts can be functioning correctly, but if the correct data signals are not sent nothing happens. Here is a summary of how it works:
1. The brake pedal activates the break switch. That sends a voltage to the brake pedal position sensor in the BCM. That causes a digital signal to be sent to the RCDLR. Inside the RCDLR is a lock control solenoid that supplies the ground for the park lockout solenoid after receiving the digital signal. (If the break light come on or the engine will start, there is nothing wrong with the break light switch.)
2. The TCM sends out a digital signal to indicate the gear selection. This signal is sent to the Shift Lever. The signal must be “Park” for the park lockout solenoid to function. (when it is shifted out of park the solenoid is deactivated so that it won’t waste power or overheat while driving)
3. The engine starts. The ignition circuit sends battery positive voltage to energize the park lockout solenoid.
Therefore there are 2 circuits that must be completed to activate the park lockout solenoid. The battery power by way of the ignition switch, and the ground by way of the break switch. With the TCM sensing the transmission is actually in park.
If all of that works correctly you can now shift out of park!
First, there are 3 modules that are involved in the control of the park lockout. The Body Control Module (BCM), the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR), and the Transmission Control Module (TCM) plus the Break Light Switch, the Park Switch, and the (infamous) Shift Lock Control Solenoid (also referred to as the park lockout solenoid). Also, there is a serial data link that communicates signals between the BCM, the RCDLR, and the TCM required to activate the park lockout solenoid. All of these units must work properly to release the gear shift park lock. All the electrical system parts can be functioning correctly, but if the correct data signals are not sent nothing happens. Here is a summary of how it works:
1. The brake pedal activates the break switch. That sends a voltage to the brake pedal position sensor in the BCM. That causes a digital signal to be sent to the RCDLR. Inside the RCDLR is a lock control solenoid that supplies the ground for the park lockout solenoid after receiving the digital signal. (If the break light come on or the engine will start, there is nothing wrong with the break light switch.)
2. The TCM sends out a digital signal to indicate the gear selection. This signal is sent to the Shift Lever. The signal must be “Park” for the park lockout solenoid to function. (when it is shifted out of park the solenoid is deactivated so that it won’t waste power or overheat while driving)
3. The engine starts. The ignition circuit sends battery positive voltage to energize the park lockout solenoid.
Therefore there are 2 circuits that must be completed to activate the park lockout solenoid. The battery power by way of the ignition switch, and the ground by way of the break switch. With the TCM sensing the transmission is actually in park.
If all of that works correctly you can now shift out of park!
05-03-2015, 03:16 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Mechanical override
I drilled a small hole in the pawl and ran a wire to the inside if the center console, right by the power outlet. This allows the locking mechanism to function as designed, but gives me a mechanical override to move the pawl whenever needed.
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FrankPC (08-24-2016)
06-06-2015, 06:35 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
While doing this fix I broke the orange shift indicator... Any ideas on how to find a replacement? I cant find anywhere just the orange plastic part.
Last edited by Wildmanht; 06-06-2015 at 11:22 PM.
06-22-2015, 08:10 PM
#31
It's been getting worse and worse and after being stuck for half an hour on Saturday I decided enough is enough and disabled the shift lock on Sunday. Took about an hour. Did not have to take the console all the way off. Only disconnected the active handling switch harness and the passenger seat belt light then propped the console up on the e-brake handle. The red thing is propping the shifter cover up.
Here's an updated picture.
Here's an updated picture.
06-22-2015, 10:47 PM
#32
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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If it's only an hour's job, maybe I'll jump on it if we get some nice weather soon. Not enough room in the barn where I keep it so I'll have to do it outside.
Attachment 48333511
06-24-2015, 02:26 PM
#33
Team Owner
Nice job EV... I had an old Blazer that must have worked in reverse because I unplugged the electrical connector for the solenoid and that disabled the system for me.
Last edited by cclive; 06-24-2015 at 02:32 PM.
07-07-2015, 08:40 PM
#35
Race Car Tech
The difference will be:
The shifter will be able to shift out of Park without pushing the brake pedal when the car is started, or in ACC mode.
Most people have it engrained in their brains, to push the brake pedal if shifting out of Park anyway, so it's almost a non issue.
I have the locking pawl tied back, and I still push the brake pedal on instinct when starting the car and keep the brake pedal pushed in until it's in Reverse or Drive.
Hope this answers your concerns.
07-08-2015, 09:56 AM
#36
Le Mans Master
Yes, it will still lock in Park with the ignition off. The car will still not start without first pushing the brake pedal.
The difference will be:
The shifter will be able to shift out of Park without pushing the brake pedal when the car is started, or in ACC mode.
Most people have it engrained in their brains, to push the brake pedal if shifting out of Park anyway, so it's almost a non issue.
I have the locking pawl tied back, and I still push the brake pedal on instinct when starting the car and keep the brake pedal pushed in until it's in Reverse or Drive.
Hope this answers your concerns.
The difference will be:
The shifter will be able to shift out of Park without pushing the brake pedal when the car is started, or in ACC mode.
Most people have it engrained in their brains, to push the brake pedal if shifting out of Park anyway, so it's almost a non issue.
I have the locking pawl tied back, and I still push the brake pedal on instinct when starting the car and keep the brake pedal pushed in until it's in Reverse or Drive.
Hope this answers your concerns.
07-08-2015, 09:51 PM
#37
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2014
Location: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
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This "de-complicating" of a GM tumor is a no-brainer for me, I just need to find the time.
But I'm sure I'll find the time if my shifter locks up on me somewhere and I have to pay $$ to get the car trucked back home.
But I'm sure I'll find the time if my shifter locks up on me somewhere and I have to pay $$ to get the car trucked back home.
07-18-2015, 03:57 PM
#38
Melting Slicks
My 09 A6 is beginning to refuse to shift out of Park occasionally. It usually will operate after several tries. This is very disappointing as a recent owner. I had a 00 Z28 that had a GM designed in flaw in the BCM that would cause the radio and power windows to stop working. I had to dig the stupid thing out myself and re-solder the PC board in the BCM to get everything working again. Chevrolet would only replace the entire assembly, which required re-programming of the unit so that the chipped ignition key would still work. When it first happened, I assumed something was wrong with the radio. I got on a Camaro forum and they were all talking about this well known problem. Why does Chevy 1) design these components so poorly and 2) not step forward with corrective remedies that don't involve replacing full assemblies at huge cost to the customer. My understanding is that the Chevy dealer would fix this by replacing the entire shifter at a cost of $400-$600 (and that might just be the parts). That is abysmal! They create a sub-standard design and then charge the person they sold it to for correcting (if you regard replacing the damn thing with the same crappy designed part a correction) the problem. It's kind of like selling you a car with sub-standard tires and then charging you to replace failed tires with new, sub-standard, ones.
11-12-2015, 11:57 PM
#39
Pro
Great info! I'm planning to do this soon as I have had my 05 for a month now and it has already done this to me several times.
Question: Any tips on how to safely pry up console without breaking anything?
Thanks everyone for great info and pics
Question: Any tips on how to safely pry up console without breaking anything?
Thanks everyone for great info and pics
11-13-2015, 07:57 AM
#40
Race Director
Prying the trim piece loose really isn't the challenge. It's going to be all of the electrical switch connectors in back that all seem to have varying means of unlocking from the wiring harnesses. I did my 07 A6 vert a month ago and that was my great frustration.