Is the pfadt street alignment really that different?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Is the pfadt street alignment really that different?
Just as the title asks? I'm getting the car aligned in the next week (lowered) and have been reading the pfadt setup will give longer tire wear over the stock grand sport.
Any one have experience with both? Pros or cons to either I might have missed?
I'm sure this has been covered a million times, I guess I'm just looking for quick confirmation
Any one have experience with both? Pros or cons to either I might have missed?
I'm sure this has been covered a million times, I guess I'm just looking for quick confirmation
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
How much does the handling suffer if at all with the pfadt setup? The only track time I see is the drag strip.
I do like taking corners when i can though
I do like taking corners when i can though
#4
Team Owner
I don't think "different" is the issue. "Specific and exact" without a plus/minus range is the issue. If you just communicate with your alignment tech what you want and you want to go by the Pfadt specs exactly I'm confident you will be happy with everything.
Note: The Pfadt Toe specs are shown as "negative" (-) which in their case means "toe in". That "may be" opposite what some technicians customarily say so just make it clear to your technician.
Note: The Pfadt Toe specs are shown as "negative" (-) which in their case means "toe in". That "may be" opposite what some technicians customarily say so just make it clear to your technician.
#5
OP, your car could have the exact Pdaft alignment specs you want, for all we know. The issue is what Rick T said: the tolerances. GS camber specs are -0.45+/- 0.60º; that's absolutely ridiculous. That means your car could have from +0.15 to -1.05º camber, and still be within freaking spec. Having said that, most GSs seem to be aligned towards the aggressive side of that spec. But most importantly, most GSs seem to have the right alingment from the factory, so before screwing with yours, make sure you have an alignment issue before even considering messing with it. Many folks have regretted doing that. They reported significantly handling degradation and excessive outward tire wear from decreasing camber. In addition, if you have the Gen2 tires, being asymmetric doesn't really tell you the real alignment story. But unless you see excessive inner tire wear, I wouldn't touch it. My Gen2s are wearing very evenly, with mostly 20% of the mileage hard cornering on mountain roads, and 80% slab. And car handles like a dream, so won't touch the alignment. A friend of mine with an '11 GS realigned the car to supposedly get more tire life, and got the opposite, plus crappy handling. He realigned it to factory specs, but says it doesn't feel like new. He forgot to ask the shop to record the existing figures before touching anything. He's pretty pissed that he messed with it to begin with. Good luck.
#6
Drifting
The PFADT street specs work great.
The tolerances from the factory are what is messed up. I have seen cars with -.2 on one side and -1.4 on the other, with a bunch of negative toe and eaten up tires.
Toe is your enemy if you want good wear. You only want about 1/32"-1/16" total toe in on the front for the street. Can run a bunch of camber if toe is kept in check.
The tolerances from the factory are what is messed up. I have seen cars with -.2 on one side and -1.4 on the other, with a bunch of negative toe and eaten up tires.
Toe is your enemy if you want good wear. You only want about 1/32"-1/16" total toe in on the front for the street. Can run a bunch of camber if toe is kept in check.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I should probably clarify better...
I HAVE to get an alignment, I lowered it. So I'm just curious if I should go with the pfadt setup, or just let the shop do their thing. They did my g8 after I put it on coilovers so I have experience with them already.
Since it was brought up too, I have the garbage gen 1 tires.
I'd like them to last as long as possible, but I also know I'll probably swap em before they are totally gone.
I HAVE to get an alignment, I lowered it. So I'm just curious if I should go with the pfadt setup, or just let the shop do their thing. They did my g8 after I put it on coilovers so I have experience with them already.
Since it was brought up too, I have the garbage gen 1 tires.
I'd like them to last as long as possible, but I also know I'll probably swap em before they are totally gone.
#9
Should have started with that . Just make sure your shop of choice has both the ability AND patience to do a precise alignment job, and you should be fine. And by 'precise' I mean pretty close, since it's almost impossible to do it perfectly. But not nearly as ridiculous as the stock tolerance. But ask in advance. Good luck.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Should have started with that . Just make sure your shop of choice has both the ability AND patience to do a precise alignment job, and you should be fine. And by 'precise' I mean pretty close, since it's almost impossible to do it perfectly. But not nearly as ridiculous as the stock tolerance. But ask in advance. Good luck.
#11
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '13
The PFADT street specs work great.
The tolerances from the factory are what is messed up. I have seen cars with -.2 on one side and -1.4 on the other, with a bunch of negative toe and eaten up tires.
Toe is your enemy if you want good wear. You only want about 1/32"-1/16" total toe in on the front for the street. Can run a bunch of camber if toe is kept in check.
The tolerances from the factory are what is messed up. I have seen cars with -.2 on one side and -1.4 on the other, with a bunch of negative toe and eaten up tires.
Toe is your enemy if you want good wear. You only want about 1/32"-1/16" total toe in on the front for the street. Can run a bunch of camber if toe is kept in check.
I use a little toe-in at the rear also, but we're splitting hairs there.
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
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I use pfadt's street/track alignment with minimal toe front and rear without problems. The tires seem to wear evenly across the tread so far. I've got 5mm left on all 4. The "junk" G1 tires worked well on the track at last year's hpde, this year I'm at a different track so the jury is still out.
One point to keep in mind, well a couple actually, we have rubber in the upper and lower control arms which makes it difficult for any alignment to remain good. The other is if you attend hpde events you might want to keep in mind the stock camber adjusters can slip - sometimes a lot. I installed pfadt's camber kit on my GS last year, had the alignment check prior to this years hpde season and the alignment was off - due to the rubber in the chassis components and maybe a different shop, regardless though the alignment was off.
One point to keep in mind, well a couple actually, we have rubber in the upper and lower control arms which makes it difficult for any alignment to remain good. The other is if you attend hpde events you might want to keep in mind the stock camber adjusters can slip - sometimes a lot. I installed pfadt's camber kit on my GS last year, had the alignment check prior to this years hpde season and the alignment was off - due to the rubber in the chassis components and maybe a different shop, regardless though the alignment was off.
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Don't plan on racing at any events, the car is my dd
I call the tires junk because they are. They won't balance and I'm sure are out of round. To me that makes a tire junk...
I call the tires junk because they are. They won't balance and I'm sure are out of round. To me that makes a tire junk...
#14
Melting Slicks
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Hpde isn't racing and mine is also a dd. If my tires were that bad, I'd replace them asap or find a shop that can balance them or troubleshoot the problem. The advanced shops can do a load force balance which seems to work well. Tires and brakes, your life rides on them.
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hpde isn't racing and mine is also a dd. If my tires were that bad, I'd replace them asap or find a shop that can balance them or troubleshoot the problem. The advanced shops can do a load force balance which seems to work well. Tires and brakes, your life rides on them.
Not much I can do there. However I do want my alignment in check before I shop for tires
#18
Race Director
I did the Pfdat street spec alignment and definitely noted the car did not corner as sticky as my OEM alignment.
I haven't noticed any wear problems, but I almost want to go back to my old alignment because I really liked the original stickiness.
I haven't noticed any wear problems, but I almost want to go back to my old alignment because I really liked the original stickiness.
#19
Drifting
I personally think it makes a world of difference if you drive the car alot and are in tune with how it behaves in different situations. I feel my alignment bridged the gap between going all out and just putting along to work. Here's a bit from a recent thread about my tire/alignment journey.
Link to thread: My GS Alignment @ 11k miles tires thread with wear pictures
My alignment was done at 1,500 miles when I got back from picking it up in Dec. Right now I'm at 11,000 miles and I know its about time for new tires. I don't do burn-outs and I'm mostly conservatively during the week to and from work, but I do push the car on the weekends. I've listed some notable driving excursions below and I appreciate any advice given. The only thing interesting I've noticed so far is how the edges on both fronts are wearing, I assume it is from taking corners quickly and exploring my car's braking capabilities .
With these tires I have:
First Alignment Print-out @ approx 1,500 mles
With these tires I have:
- Driven from Bowling Green,KY --> Cincinnati,OH --> back through Raleigh, NC (~1500 miles)
- Driven from Raleigh,NC --> Moss Point, Ms (~2,000 miles)
- Parade Laps at VIR (At moderate but fun pace)
- Drove 75% of the Blue Ridge Parkway in NC (~600 miles day in one day)
- The Dragon's Tail 6x on two different occasions 4x at a brisk pace
- Cherohala Skyway (Similar to the tail but with longer curves)
First Alignment Print-out @ approx 1,500 mles
#20
Melting Slicks
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At least that is how I understand how this works.
Look closely at the side of your tire out near the tread. You'll see some scrub markers that look like this ^. Those indicate to me how far the tire is rolling when cornering. Under normal driving conditions you will never come close to seeing tire scrub any where close to the top of the arrow. At hpde, I have to drop tire pressures 4 to 5 psi (varies outside to inside for predominantly left or right hand turns at a track) then as the tires warm up the pressure comes back to about 30psi and when I am done for the round I check the ^'s to see where the tire is scrubbing, measure the pressures and balance them all to 30. I want the scrub marks at the top of the ^.
The point of all of this is I think the GY gen 1 Supercars are actually pretty decent tires when used correctly. They are certainly driveable to 7/10's - 8/10's of the car's capability. To find out what that level of performance is I highly suggest you attend an hpde event and get a ride with an instructor that can take the car to 7/10's to see what its like. NOWAY would I suggest driving a C-6 on the street at that level.