pulling LS3 and replacing pistons
05-16-2013, 11:51 PM
#41
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Here's the deal and why I answered the way I did
1. You asked if the factory manual is useful
Unless you walk around with all the clearance, torque specs etc in your head, yea, it's useful.
2. What were the hardest parts? any surprises?
It's an LS, nothing is hard or gives surprises
3. Did you have to make/buy special/custom tools?
If you have a factory manual then you would have these answers to every part you work on
To me, these all appear to be rookie questions from a novice and I think others took it the same way, hence all the 'send it out' replies.
My method is research, and it doesn't include forums .....
1. You asked if the factory manual is useful
Unless you walk around with all the clearance, torque specs etc in your head, yea, it's useful.
2. What were the hardest parts? any surprises?
It's an LS, nothing is hard or gives surprises
3. Did you have to make/buy special/custom tools?
If you have a factory manual then you would have these answers to every part you work on
To me, these all appear to be rookie questions from a novice and I think others took it the same way, hence all the 'send it out' replies.
My method is research, and it doesn't include forums .....
05-17-2013, 11:59 AM
#43
Safety Car
As far as impossible to accomplish, I haven't had that problem in 30+ years, just more stuff to take off to get at it.
The crux of my point is that the answers to his questions are in the manual.
05-17-2013, 12:01 PM
#44
Safety Car
05-17-2013, 01:37 PM
#45
05-19-2013, 11:25 PM
#47
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.... You are insane OP. No one has said any of this stuff. My suggestion was that if you were going through this much trouble why not have the block cleaned up and the new rotating assembly balanced? Sure it might be fine not doing it but who knows once you weigh your new piston/rod's.
I wrench on my own **** and had pulled the transmission/heads/cam on my 05 GTO more times then I care to recall. You seem to be ready to jump and call anybody out, nobody cares about your tubular header. Seriously.
I wrench on my own **** and had pulled the transmission/heads/cam on my 05 GTO more times then I care to recall. You seem to be ready to jump and call anybody out, nobody cares about your tubular header. Seriously.
my work here is done
05-19-2013, 11:28 PM
#48
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I lied! 
I was 69 when I did it, not 68. I'm 71 now, so give an old fart a little slack for the grey cell hiccup. 
The engine can be pulled and replaced from the top without dropping the front cradle, but you can't do it with the IM installed. Be sure to install the oil pressure sender and connect/position as much wiring as possible around the back, prior to re-installing the IM.
My biggest problem was getting the radiator seperated from the condenser, until I opted to just disconnect and dump the freon. I think some other people hang the whole mess over the fender until they can unbolt the compressor. I opted to get it all out of the way and recharge the AC when I was done.
It's a lot easier when the torque tube and rear cradle is out for the install. If you have a need/desire to do anything toward the back, then pull the rear first and the engine becomes real easy.
This pretty much explains the reason for the swap.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...e-contest.html
My engine locked up and I couldn't rotate the crank to access the bolt on the driveshaft that allows the torque tube to come off until the engine was free out the top. I already had a 3600 TC on hand and had planned on swapping that, so the rear was coming out anyway.
I was 69 when I did it, not 68. I'm 71 now, so give an old fart a little slack for the grey cell hiccup. The engine can be pulled and replaced from the top without dropping the front cradle, but you can't do it with the IM installed. Be sure to install the oil pressure sender and connect/position as much wiring as possible around the back, prior to re-installing the IM.
My biggest problem was getting the radiator seperated from the condenser, until I opted to just disconnect and dump the freon. I think some other people hang the whole mess over the fender until they can unbolt the compressor. I opted to get it all out of the way and recharge the AC when I was done.
It's a lot easier when the torque tube and rear cradle is out for the install. If you have a need/desire to do anything toward the back, then pull the rear first and the engine becomes real easy.
This pretty much explains the reason for the swap.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...e-contest.html
My engine locked up and I couldn't rotate the crank to access the bolt on the driveshaft that allows the torque tube to come off until the engine was free out the top. I already had a 3600 TC on hand and had planned on swapping that, so the rear was coming out anyway.
also really weird...the engine looks very old fashioned with all its plastic off....
i cringed when i read "this is what poured out of the intake" in the carnage thread
05-19-2013, 11:30 PM
#49
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Here's the deal and why I answered the way I did
1. You asked if the factory manual is useful
Unless you walk around with all the clearance, torque specs etc in your head, yea, it's useful.
2. What were the hardest parts? any surprises?
It's an LS, nothing is hard or gives surprises
3. Did you have to make/buy special/custom tools?
If you have a factory manual then you would have these answers to every part you work on
To me, these all appear to be rookie questions from a novice and I think others took it the same way, hence all the 'send it out' replies.
My method is research, and it doesn't include forums .....
1. You asked if the factory manual is useful
Unless you walk around with all the clearance, torque specs etc in your head, yea, it's useful.
2. What were the hardest parts? any surprises?
It's an LS, nothing is hard or gives surprises
3. Did you have to make/buy special/custom tools?
If you have a factory manual then you would have these answers to every part you work on
To me, these all appear to be rookie questions from a novice and I think others took it the same way, hence all the 'send it out' replies.
My method is research, and it doesn't include forums .....
i've had FSM's for lots of cars and they are frequently error prone, indecipherable, or just plain wrong. sometimes it takes a combination of chiltons, haynes, FSM and some online research to "triangulate" and get the proper answers
05-19-2013, 11:32 PM
#50
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05-19-2013, 11:38 PM
#51
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i've had FSM's with clearly incorrect units for specifications and sometimes just bizarre procedures that dont make any sense...
maybe they are trying to force you to think things through very very carefully hahaha
05-20-2013, 12:08 AM
#52
Tolero Apto Victum
OP: While every thing is apart, are you going to replace the "stock" crank pulley with an after market item, ie ATI unit?
http://store.katechengines.com/ati-s...ts-v-p230.aspx & http://store.katechengines.com/bille...sioner-p2.aspx
http://store.katechengines.com/ati-s...ts-v-p230.aspx & http://store.katechengines.com/bille...sioner-p2.aspx
05-20-2013, 05:24 PM
#54
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09
piece of cake.
and i've never built any kind of tubalur manifold, but did drive a dodge shadow with the 2.2T engine, could change head gaskets in 30 mins.
-Carl
and i've never built any kind of tubalur manifold, but did drive a dodge shadow with the 2.2T engine, could change head gaskets in 30 mins.
-Carl