C U IN REARVEIW

So no real performance pro's of a h/c/i set up over a F/I set up?

All2Easy

For me, I like cars that make power without FI.

A lot depends on how involved you want to be in driving the car. IMHO, H/C/I = a more visceral driving experience. My preference.....just saying.

veloz

exactly,,,ive been to many car cruise ins and get compliments on my cam sound all the time,,,even from the guys with superchargers...

MotoMike02

thats why im doing it as well

Joe_G

One thing not mentioned, is cost.

Your H/C setup with trick flows & headers is going to cost $6.5k ($2k for cam installed, $1.5k for headers installed, $3k for TF heads with new rockers). I think you can get a small blower setup installed for around the same or maybe a bit more, bigger blowers cost more.

You can figure on selling your blower used for about 1/2 new if you sell the car. You can also sell headers and heads for about 1/2 price of new but the de-installation costs are much higher. You will get more of your investment back when you sell if you go with a blower as you lose the money for the cam install. If you do your own work you can cut quite a bit from these prices, both the installation and de-installation.

A cammed car "comes on" at about 4500 rpm, you feel it. I've not driven a blower car so I can't say. Either case, traction becomes an issue so you have to run DR's if you really want traction off the line.

For me, nothing beats the sound of a cammed car so that is what I always go with. I sometimes get kids "blowing their noses at me" (exercising their blow off valves)...when I open my cutouts they back down every time.

And let's face it, when I cruise into the car show I turn heads. Blower sounds like a stock putt-putt. Mustangs sound better. Sad but true, maybe Chevy will make the c7 sound better stock.

FloydSummerOf68

Big cams sound awesome, no doubt, but that sound isn't going to do much good when your setup is maxed out around 500rwhp and the guy with the blower decides to up it to 650+

Many shops will install an A&A blower for between 6 and 6.5k tuned. Cost is going to be pretty even between both setups.

Joe_G

The difference between 650 and 500 rwhp on the street is more tire spin, leaving illegal street racing above 60 mph out of the discussion, where the additional hp would matter. My h/c setup has 50,000 miles on it, with one spring swap (easy) so they are reliable in daily driving. So would be a blower.

Really, sound is the only difference. Unless you are into racing dyno sheets.

Notice the OP says he is not taking it to the track. My answer might be different if he was.

FloydSummerOf68

Well any street racing under 60mph is also illegal, so we'd have to go on the assumption that no racing is happening period.

I'm going to assume the OP will probably romp on it once in a while and not just keep it under 60mph if he's considering a heads/cam/intake car or forced induction. I haven't ever "street raced" my car in the 6 years owning it, but I certainly have ripped on it through 2nd and 3rd when all alone. The difference you'll feel between 500 and 600rwhp is very apparent.

If the intent is only to do 0-60 it would be best to probably leave the car stock and swap gears and tire. A heads/cam setup or forced induction isn't going to start to suck your eyes into the back of your head until higher rpms anyway.

C U IN REARVEIW

I really don't want a car that that blows the tires off in any gear below 100mph....that's why I am thinking a s/c may not be necessary in this application. (but still contemplating) the car already has ported tb,fast 102 and LT's...so I will be just looking at custom cam,TF220's and having everything designed/ported by brian tooley! you are spot on with my style of driving....mainly cruising with a few 2&3rd gear rips when its safe to do so...

saplumr

My old Chevy II's all had high compression pistons with huge cams and I've had two blower cars. I love my blower car but did love the big N/A cars also. For pure adrenaline a blower car is tough to beat!l

veloz

well there is your answer...BTW a vendor here was advertising cam / tune upgrades for about $2K..not bad at all..you will love the sound of your car at idle, stop lights, car shows etc...i get more compliments on my car sound than for any other mod i have done to my car..and it runs too...it really is a beast above 4500 rpm...down right dangerous if i dont watch it..so go get it..

Joe_G

^^ I agree.

The difference of the TF heads will only matter for dyno sheets or last .1 on the drag strip.

Since you already have headers and fast a nice cam will give you 95% of the gain you are looking for, for only $2k.

That is a no brainer in my mind. Cam only and enjoy.

FloydSummerOf68

As long as you aren't one of these retards running a 285 runflat with your supercharger you won't blow the tires away under 100mph.

With my 345 Khumo XS I can roll into WOT at 40mph no problem.

Personally I'd only consider running either cam only or FI. Dollar for Dollar a set of good heads really sucks.


Edit - I took a while with my response because something came up, but I see the previous two guys also are recommending the same thing, ha ha.

Joe_G

My 345 Invos are getting sketchy in first gear and second gear on the street these days, I can't go wot in either gear. But they have 30,118 miles on them and are 3+ years old so I can't expect them to last forever.

JoesC5

Traction is a problem with both setups. I have a stock Z06(450 rwhp) and it spins the tries to 90 MPH(when I shift into 3rd gear). That's with TC on. It's sideways at 60 MPH in 1st gear.

FloydSummerOf68

My first gear is only used for getting to 2nd gear, lol. There is no hope of traction in 1st on my car.

Wish I had AWD My dad's 500AWHP 911 Turbo just hooks and books in any gear

old motorhead

Get a pd blower and enjoy. You CAN hook the power with the right tires. If you don't have the right tires, and you have half a brain, you CAN exercise some discretion with your right foot and apply as much pressure as your current tire setup can use. It's not that difficult.

The "heat" issue that the haters harp on is stupid. A pd blower heats the air when it's under boost. Any f/i system does. When it's not boosting, it doesn't run any hotter than a stock motor. I can drive around in 100 degree temps and the blower is the coolest thing under the hood. It has it's own radiator......

Devilish34

A&A V3 5300ish, Meth 700 ish, SD tune 600ish, install free DIY = 604/528

Devilish34

Hows the surge?
And there is nothing like the sound of a BOV...



To the OP IMO for a DD with good street manners I'd do a blower over a cam. My last car had a cam and and no this one has a blower.. I like the blower better bc the car is quiet and drives like stock but always has the power on demand..

SK360

I had a H/C/I with stall combo on my 05 GTO. I loved/hated it. Drivability was meh, sound was good. Reliability was meh. Chewed up LS7 lifters and a cam eventually. Going to a stock car had me in love again.

The vette is getting a ECS Paxton Novi kit without question.