blown383z28

Well guys I’m pretty sure I have a new one for yea. First off its a 06 Z06, all the bolt-on’s, cam, heads, intake, RPS twin disk, etc. car made 59? At the wheels. I got the car out the other day for a little ride (I have put 25 miles on the car since I traded my 09 ctsv for it). I fired it up and let it warm up few minutes in the driveway (its still cold as hell in WI). I took off easy like I always do with my cars till everything else is warmed up. Drove around a few miles till I got to are “local drag road”. I left the stop sign normal, shifted to second and then continued to roll on to the throttle up to WOT. I shifted to 3rd and continued all the way through 4th gear (this was with shifting like a old man between gears and, lifting off the gas to shift). After topping off 4th I tried to go into 5th to start coasting down but it ground when I tried get it in. I then just left it in neutral and coasted down to the next road. When I got to the road I tried to get it into 2nd to make the corner and it dead headed. Wouldn’t do anything. No grinding (that I could hear), didn’t feel any vibrations, nothing on the shifter. Just felt like hitting a wall in the trans. I then went to try 1st gear, that did the same thing. At this point I was almost certain the clutch had locked the flywheel (my camaro did this a few years ago). I then shut the car off and just like I thought it went right into any gear. I figure at this point limp it home in second. I put the shifter in second pushed in the clutch and hit the start button. Car jumped forward VERY little and then stopped (thinking clutch broke free). NOW this is where it starts to get confusing! I put the shifter in the neutral position and I let the clutch out. Well the car started to move, yes with the shifter in the neutral position! I put the shifter back in second and it went right in. I then took off in second and continued home in second gear at about 25mph. I went about a 1/8 mile and I hear this bang/clunk come from the rear back half of the car. I stop and put car in neutral and let clutch out and open the door to hang my head under the car. At this point I swear I can hear a grinding noise coming from the trans (very hard to hear over the LOAD exhaust). I put car back in second and take off again for home. I get about 1/8 from home and I figure I’ll try some more gears b4 I pull in to the driveway. It goes right into 3rd and 4th. At this point I’m pulling into my driveway so I push the clutch in and put it back into second (goes in almost a “normal feeling”, didn’t hear it grind), and all of sudden the BACK TIRES LOCK UP! Just for a split second. And this is all happening with the clutch pushed in! By now I’m almost stopped so I put it in first and park it back in the shop.
It snowed again that next day so I couldn’t take it back out. I put the car on jack stands and ran through the gears on the stands. the shifting started out feeling ok but, after about 45sec to a minute of up shifting and down shifting it started to rougher and rougher going into second and third gear.
I was told the clutch was sent back in right b4 it got the car. It had one new disk put back in. I got the car with about 300 miles on the clutch. Stock trans.
ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA??!!

EVRose

I have no idea except what does you clutch fluid look like? Ever changed it?

blown383z28

i know the guy b4 me said he did change it.. but it does look a little dark.

Ferocious C6

So it engaged while you put it in neutral? Are you positive it was out of all gears?
It may be your slave cylinder going bad. How many miles?

FireRoc

I suspect there is more than one thing going on here.

First is the clutch is not releasing properly. Why is the question. First off, do you have a remote bleeder? When I put a Stage IV RPM Transmission in my 2005 C6 there was a note on the transmission that said the transmission warranty was void if a slave cylinder remote bleeder was used. When I questioned RPM Transmission on this, they said that they had found that remote bleeders can have air in them (due to the way they are routed) and this does not let the clutch dis-engage properly, thereby causing premature failure of the synchro's and shifting problems.

It could also be a pressure plate problem or the new disc was not installed properly. Or the slave cylinder itself may be leaking. I also had that problem. I have a RAM twic-disc in my car, and on the first installation we used a RAM slave cylinder. It was complete garbage. Over the course of last summer it started to leak so badly that the clutch pedal would go to the floor in less than 30 minutes while driving on the highway.

Second, I also think you also have a transmission issue. It could be a bent fork, or worn out pads on the forks or a problem with the synchro's/gears assembly on the main shaft. Something similar happened to a T56 in friend's 98 Camaro SS a number of years ago. It turned out to be the dog clutches broke on one of the gears (3rd as I recall).

I hate to say it, but I think a transmission and clutch tear down is in your future.

It will be interesting to hear what others have to say.

blown383z28

yea my buddy was with me and we both seen it. we both looked at each other the same time and gave the old WTF!? i have no idea how many miles are on the slave. i just got the car and it was all installed b4 that and the guy i got it from (mightymouse) didn’t drive it long when he had it. i think the guy that had it b4 him is the forum also. ill try to find his user name.

I don’t think a bad slave wouldn’t cause the trans to make noises and the back tires to lock up..??

when i had it on the jack stands i also put the car in gear with the clutch pushed all the way in and reved the motor. the tires didn’t move one inch. that is telling me the clutch is fully disengaging.

blown383z28

Yes FireCor, i agree 100%. I too say it is two problems. I’m thinking the clutch was getting hot on the pull I did and was hanging up a little when I was shifting. Something broke off in the trans (whatever that is) when I was shifting and after I slowed down to make the turn the clutch was still locked to the flywheel. It then broke free. When I was driving it home slow and made the clunk it was that broken part flying around and got caught in something. And then when I was pulling into my driveway and the tires locked up I’m guessing that or them parts got caught again. Which bound something up for a split second. I trust the last guy that worked on the car. I’m convinced it was nothing he did wrong on the install. I’m thinking the clutch wasn’t fully broke in and was slipping. It does have a remote bleeder. I’m going to change the fluid b4 I try to drive it again. If I use a mighty vac pump would you still be worried about air?

Joe_G

Given the symptoms and the fact that your drivetrain has been out, I suspect a different problem.

It could be as simple as your shifter box being loose - remove the console and align the shifter (you can search for the procedure, it's easy). If that checks out ok, then the connection from your shifter to the transmission may be loose or out of alignment. You shoud be able to reach up and check that too from under the car, but it's not a fun time. Easier if you have a lift. There are pictures online of a corvette chassis that would show you the exact location of the allen bolt connector.

I'd try both of those in that order before you do anything with the clutch. Doesn't sound like a clutch issue to me. If these don't work it sounds like the tranny broke but that's rare.

blown383z28

Thanks for the reply Joe. That is on my list to check. That’s pretty much what the last owner told me to check also. He said he’s pretty sure he put lock tight on all that stuff.

Joe_G

I am leaning on the shifter box...it's attached to the torque tube with two allen bolts and the shift rod has one also that ties the shifter to the rod.

Don't drop the allen bolts or you'll be removing your exhaust & those 100 bolts holding up the close out panel below the car!

FireRoc

I would think that should help, but I cannot say for sure.

When mine went back together, even though I had the remote bleeder setup from the RAM slave, it DID NOT go back in. I was not going to jeopardize the transmission warranty.

Shifter box/rod alignment sounds like a good place to start.

blown383z28

Well guys got a little more checking done on the Z. I changed the clutch fluid (with mighty vac). Took center console out and checked the shift linkage and realigned it (everything looked good even b4 I did the re-aligning). Tried to take it for a ride… pulled out of the driveway and tried to shift into 2nd. I did some grinding and wouldn’t even go in. tried to go back into 1st and it did the same thing. I stopped and got it in 1st again and took off. I then went right into 3rd (felt a little rough). Went fine into 4th. We then listened a little closer and could hear some grinding noise coming from the rear while we were driving. Got the stop sign and put it back into 1st. took off and got almost around the corner and the back tires almost locked up again. Motor loaded hard and we slowed right down. I pushed the clutch in and it went away. I shifted to 3rd and drove it home. When I got home jacked it up and figured I would drain the oil. I grabbed a clean ice cream bucket and let it drain. I pulled it out and the oil was a dark dark red with a silver look to it. Another thing that bothered me was with the ice cream bucket it only filled it up about 2-2.5 inches of the bucket (not sure if the buckets are one gallon or 5 quarts)? But that don’t seem like a lot of oil?? So anyway im back to thinking it’s a bad trans?? I didn’t get it on my hoist yet to check the rear linkage. From what ive been reading you really can’t check it because it’s in the housing yet??

Joe_G

You can reach the coupler in top of the trans but it sounds like the trans is bad to me.

Ferocious C6

Drain the transmission fluid, see if there are shavings in the fluid.

blown383z28

I did drain the oil. put in in a clean white gallon (or 5quart) pail and it was DARK red and looked silver.. I’ll run a magnet through it tonight. how much should be in the trans?? Like it said it only put about 2 inches of oil in that 5quart bucket..?

blown383z28

the oil out of the bucket filled up a 1 quart jug.... i asked the guy that had it b4 me and he said he never looked or changed it... there is not one drop on the ground.. im guessing this is what wreaked the trans? anyone else seen the out come of low oil in a trans?

Joe_G

Looks like we are learning about it now... Keep us posted.

blown383z28

well this is it.... welded/melted the front bearing on the input shaft. And some how in god's name the rest of it looks brand new!!! Don’t ask me how! can’t find one gear, synco, etc that has any sign of damage! not even hot spots! I’m ordering a new bearing and putting her back together (with the right about of oil)

cruiser1

Sorry for the misfortune but glad that's all it was. Think we all learned something here!

blown383z28

thanks.

Anyone know or know where I can get a part # for that bearing?? Im hoping my local bearing place can run the # and have one instock..