Floor jack accessories
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Floor jack accessories
Does any of you tech. guys use the crossbeam floor jack adapters? I believe Summit Racing made them. I was thinking of buying them and wanted to know if they do the job and are safe. I have a 98 C5.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Melting Slicks
I have one and it works great... (up front).. The extension pieces fully inserted just pickup the lower arm joint nicely. You WILL need to jack up the side of the car before you can get a low and long jack under the car from the front... Then I slide the cross beam under there and put in place on top of the lowered jack.. It makes a very stable lifting platform for the front.
For the rear I use my other (race jack) that I had on the side, and a 5/4x6" piece of trex composite lumber cut to just around 18" long.. works great.
That's my method for getting the whole car up on jack stands.
For the rear I use my other (race jack) that I had on the side, and a 5/4x6" piece of trex composite lumber cut to just around 18" long.. works great.
That's my method for getting the whole car up on jack stands.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
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St. Jude Donor '13
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have one and it works great... (up front).. The extension pieces fully inserted just pickup the lower arm joint nicely. You WILL need to jack up the side of the car before you can get a low and long jack under the car from the front... Then I slide the cross beam under there and put in place on top of the lowered jack.. It makes a very stable lifting platform for the front.
For the rear I use my other (race jack) that I had on the side, and a 5/4x6" piece of trex composite lumber cut to just around 18" long.. works great.
That's my method for getting the whole car up on jack stands.
For the rear I use my other (race jack) that I had on the side, and a 5/4x6" piece of trex composite lumber cut to just around 18" long.. works great.
That's my method for getting the whole car up on jack stands.
#6
Melting Slicks
You certainly can use it on the back... I like to keep my jacks "staged" assuming they aren't in the way.. this way if I need to raise things more I can quickly without having to line everything up again. They also 'backup' the jack stands for a little more safety. The two jack method is what I find works best while raising the whole car and I only have one cross beam adaptor.. If I had two... then I'd setup the other one for the rear end. I use it up front because the span is a little long for a lumber beam and it just feels more sturdy in that position. The rear end is easy to get to with the jack and the 18" long 5/4" Trex works great there. (I had cut a couple of these before I got the cross beam adaptor)...
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Tacoma, Wa/Surprise, Az
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I made mine out of steel tubing. I had a pair cut at the steel supply store so I could support both front and rear on jack stands. I could not find the low profile jack and adapters in the market at the time. I found Griot has a low profile jack, but may or may not have adapters, plus its expensive. I use short race ramps in front so i don't have to jack up each side.
#8
Racer
I have the crossbeam adapter from Summit. I did not like the way it fit on my floor jack, so I had it and my jack modified by my local welding shop. The pin on the beam slides into a sleeve onthe jack. MUCH safer. I can post pics later, when I get home, if you wish. You can't be too safe.
#9
Safety Car
Top two pics= I made this up out of angle iron (25" long) and welded two plates on the ends with rubber pads.
Bottom pic= For the front I bought a length of 2" by 10" and made a (screwed together) two layer thick drive up on ramp for both sides to drive up on so I could get another jack with the proper length 2" by 4" under the front to jack that end up. I also stapled some non-skid carpet to the bottom of the ramps so it would not slide on a smooth floor when you drive the car up on the ramps. I let the non-skid carpet stick out some on the end so the tire would be on the carpet before it hit the first board. Oh, notice the new front splash guards.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 03-15-2013 at 02:26 PM.
#10
Drifting
I've finally gotten a decent routine for putting the GS on 4 jackstands;
-Lift right front side & insert raceramp under the tire, do same to left side. Front of car is raised 10" & level.
-Jack up the rear of the car & put both jackstands in place
-Jack the front up as high as the rear & insert both front stands
-Remove raceramps. Done
Now I just need something better than a 2x4 for lifting under the cross member.
-Lift right front side & insert raceramp under the tire, do same to left side. Front of car is raised 10" & level.
-Jack up the rear of the car & put both jackstands in place
-Jack the front up as high as the rear & insert both front stands
-Remove raceramps. Done
Now I just need something better than a 2x4 for lifting under the cross member.
#11
Racer
I've finally gotten a decent routine for putting the GS on 4 jackstands;
-Lift right front side & insert raceramp under the tire, do same to left side. Front of car is raised 10" & level.
-Jack up the rear of the car & put both jackstands in place
-Jack the front up as high as the rear & insert both front stands
-Remove raceramps. Done
Now I just need something better than a 2x4 for lifting under the cross member.
-Lift right front side & insert raceramp under the tire, do same to left side. Front of car is raised 10" & level.
-Jack up the rear of the car & put both jackstands in place
-Jack the front up as high as the rear & insert both front stands
-Remove raceramps. Done
Now I just need something better than a 2x4 for lifting under the cross member.
#12
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Tacoma, Wa/Surprise, Az
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The jack depicted is the same one i use. The tubing I use is 4 x 6 rectangular steel about 18 inches long, long enough to slide two jack stands on either side of the jack. I marked the center line of the steel beams so I could tell when it was centered on the jack pad. I like the jack pass on this model, it's wide, flat and has a rubber center pad. There is no perceptible flex in the steel beam. I tried the home made ramp made from 2x12 also in the picture, with whatever backing plate material I used, it would slide on my Race Deck flooring. Rave Ramps
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Tacoma, Wa/Surprise, Az
Posts: 2,853
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Typing on cell phones needs to evolve...Race Ramps makes short ramps to get the front of the car high enough for the jack and beam to slide under. The height of the ramps is about the same as it was with the 2x12's, and works well with that particular jack.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Top two pics= I made this up out of angle iron (25" long) and welded two plates on the ends with rubber pads.
Bottom pic= For the front I bought a length of 2" by 10" and made a (screwed together) two layer thick drive up on ramp for both sides to drive up on so I could get another jack with the proper length 2" by 4" under the front to jack that end up. I also stapled some non-skid carpet to the bottom of the ramps so it would not slide on a smooth floor when you drive the car up on the ramps. I let the non-skid carpet stick out some on the end so the tire would be on the carpet before it hit the first board. Oh, notice the new front splash guards.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have the crossbeam adapter from Summit. I did not like the way it fit on my floor jack, so I had it and my jack modified by my local welding shop. The pin on the beam slides into a sleeve onthe jack. MUCH safer. I can post pics later, when I get home, if you wish. You can't be too safe.
Thanks
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Top two pics= I made this up out of angle iron (25" long) and welded two plates on the ends with rubber pads.
Bottom pic= For the front I bought a length of 2" by 10" and made a (screwed together) two layer thick drive up on ramp for both sides to drive up on so I could get another jack with the proper length 2" by 4" under the front to jack that end up. I also stapled some non-skid carpet to the bottom of the ramps so it would not slide on a smooth floor when you drive the car up on the ramps. I let the non-skid carpet stick out some on the end so the tire would be on the carpet before it hit the first board. Oh, notice the new front splash guards.
#17
Racer
Here is what I have. I stole most of this idea from Vet, another CF member. But I had the pin and sleeves welded on for greater safety. It all fits together perfectly. Also, flat top jackstands go under the crossbeam before I crawl under there. Not cheap, but I have to consider my safety first.
There are two different lengths, one for the front and one for the back.
Here is a link to Vet's post
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-c6-pics.html
There are two different lengths, one for the front and one for the back.
Here is a link to Vet's post
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-c6-pics.html
Last edited by JJPonzini; 03-15-2013 at 09:48 PM.
#18
Safety Car
It's 4" channel, my mistake using the word "angle iron".
No big deal but if "I" had it to do over again I would see what is available in aluminum at the scrap yard to do the job so it would be lighter.
PS: The non-skid carpet really needs to stick out further but that was all (longest length) I had at the time. Before you staple the carpet on to the bottom of the board place the ramp in front of the tire and measure how far back from the ramp it takes to get to the rear of the tire contact surface to make the carpet cut.
No big deal but if "I" had it to do over again I would see what is available in aluminum at the scrap yard to do the job so it would be lighter.
PS: The non-skid carpet really needs to stick out further but that was all (longest length) I had at the time. Before you staple the carpet on to the bottom of the board place the ramp in front of the tire and measure how far back from the ramp it takes to get to the rear of the tire contact surface to make the carpet cut.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 03-16-2013 at 02:58 PM.
#20
Safety Car
Forgotten Pic
This is showing the (tapped for screws) support pads so that the rubber can be replaced easily with whatever you can come up with cut to size. Also if your jack does not have a 1" bolt to hold the fixture on the jack like mine but just a hole than you could weld on a piece of round stock or tack a large nut over the hole in the channel and use a large & adjustable bolt for your peg.
Due to this thread I decided on "two" new lifting pads (front & rear) made out of "ALUMINUM" 4" channel.
Due to this thread I decided on "two" new lifting pads (front & rear) made out of "ALUMINUM" 4" channel.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 03-18-2013 at 11:35 PM.