Electric water pump???
#5
Le Mans Master
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It has been on for about 3 years without issue so far. The electric pump alone will not drop temps; however, a 160*F stat will. The main reason for installing an EWP is to free up HP.
#6
Race Director
Any problims with the instal, or tips I need to know... ?
#7
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What brand did you get, I'm on the fence, but thinking of getting a MIZAIR ...I plan on using it at the drag strip, to run the WP and manual switch for the fan ... This way I can shut the engine off, & run the fan & WP between runs, I have to get my engine temps from about 200 (right after a run) to 150 prior to my next run....
Any problims with the instal, or tips I need to know... ?
Any problims with the instal, or tips I need to know... ?
#9
What brand did you get, I'm on the fence, but thinking of getting a MIZAIR ...I plan on using it at the drag strip, to run the WP and manual switch for the fan ... This way I can shut the engine off, & run the fan & WP between runs, I have to get my engine temps from about 200 (right after a run) to 150 prior to my next run....
Any problims with the instal, or tips I need to know... ?
Any problims with the instal, or tips I need to know... ?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...p-install.html
The quick tips you need to know are:
1. You will need to buy the control relay seperately about $35.00 bucks
2. To get to the #22 fuse slot you will need to go through the firewall the firewall wire harnes is behind the battery. Remove the battery
3. You need 4 hands to install the pump if the engine is in the car. It is a PIA to keep the gaskets in place while trying to manuver the water pump into position.
4. I was installing fans at the same time and it gave me a bit more room to work with with the fans out.
Is it worth it.
I do road rally type runs my oil and water temps were through the roof before I made this change. Now they are in the green and holding.
I'd also suggest you look into the SacCity V3R if you are planning on racing your car. It now turns on the water pump and the fans at the same time to better cool the car after you shut down.
George
#11
i've seen various reports from dynos on all sorts of motors
seen claims of 5-35
my guess is, and of course it's a little conservative is that you may need maybe 5-10, i'm thinking more around 5 due to the alt draw
but there could be other variables involved as well, as in aids in more slow speed cooling, road course, reving ability, etc
#12
Advanced
Thread Starter
i'd like to know, especially if someone has back to back track numbers
i've seen various reports from dynos on all sorts of motors
seen claims of 5-35
my guess is, and of course it's a little conservative is that you may need maybe 5-10, i'm thinking more around 5 due to the alt draw
but there could be other variables involved as well, as in aids in more slow speed cooling, road course, reving ability, etc
i've seen various reports from dynos on all sorts of motors
seen claims of 5-35
my guess is, and of course it's a little conservative is that you may need maybe 5-10, i'm thinking more around 5 due to the alt draw
but there could be other variables involved as well, as in aids in more slow speed cooling, road course, reving ability, etc
#13
as it chasis dyno or engine dyno?
and was the increase an average or just at peak, like say past 5500 rpms (meaning out of the normal street operating range)
without a doubt you're gonna free up some power, just what range
#14
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Thread Starter
i can believe it, but was the alt being driven at the same time to provide the power?
as it chasis dyno or engine dyno?
and was the increase an average or just at peak, like say past 5500 rpms (meaning out of the normal street operating range)
without a doubt you're gonna free up some power, just what range
as it chasis dyno or engine dyno?
and was the increase an average or just at peak, like say past 5500 rpms (meaning out of the normal street operating range)
without a doubt you're gonna free up some power, just what range
Seems to me that the alternator would have to work harder to provide the extra power to supply the water pump because I am sure it draws some amps when in full swing. However you also have the battery to help it out there so I am not really sure. I am sure there is benefit in power but how much is the real question at hand.
#15
Race Director
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Just adding an ewp isn't worth it imho. If you do it for the track gains it's because you can make a pass without the belt on. I've seen 17hp/22ftlbs gains doing so on the chassis dyno in the 400rwhp range. I imagine a more powerful motor would see an even larger gain, tho the faster you go the more power it takes to go faster. I've never seen anyone do a back to back test at the dragstrip, but in comparable weather a 10/11 sec car should see ~.1-.15 gain and 1-2mph as the power increase is across the board.
#16
i think one other positive could be a possible increase in MPGs for street use
while there is a drain from the alt, i believe it's only 7amps?
and a positive for the track would be the ability to run without the accessory belt provided you have a decent battery for the run, so i could see the HP/TQ/ET/MPG gains, and don't mind not having power steering
i will admit, they are "slick" looking indeed
i do remember in the 80s when i started using electric fans, people would say it can't be done....
seems the same with electric water pumps, (even the same was said about electric fuel pumps)
while there is a drain from the alt, i believe it's only 7amps?
and a positive for the track would be the ability to run without the accessory belt provided you have a decent battery for the run, so i could see the HP/TQ/ET/MPG gains, and don't mind not having power steering
i will admit, they are "slick" looking indeed
i do remember in the 80s when i started using electric fans, people would say it can't be done....
seems the same with electric water pumps, (even the same was said about electric fuel pumps)
#17
Race Director
Just adding an ewp isn't worth it imho. If you do it for the track gains it's because you can make a pass without the belt on. I've seen 17hp/22ftlbs gains doing so on the chassis dyno in the 400rwhp range. I imagine a more powerful motor would see an even larger gain, tho the faster you go the more power it takes to go faster. I've never seen anyone do a back to back test at the dragstrip, but in comparable weather a 10/11 sec car should see ~.1-.15 gain and 1-2mph as the power increase is across the board.
My racing buddy has that set up and can cool the engine temp from 200 deg, to 150 in 5-7 min... & in "Bracket" racing or 11.50 Index racing "CONSISTENCY" in the MAIN WORD !!!
& I think by being able to leave the start line at the same temp run after run its a big advantage, especially in HOT weather and if you are going rounds, & have less & less time between runs !!
JMO
Last edited by jpee; 01-08-2013 at 09:28 PM.
#18
Race Director
I would be "MORE" interested in the ability to "cool" the engine right after a run (I only do 1/4 mile) So if I make a run, I can shut it off in the staging lane, & run the electric WP / & the electric fan...WITH THE ENGINE OFF
My racing buddy has that set up and can cool the engine temp from 200 deg, to 150 in 5-7 min... & in "Bracket" racing or 11.50 Index racing "CONSISTENCY" in the MAIN WORD !!!
& I think by being able to leave the start line at the same temp run after run its a big advantage, especially in HOT weather and if you are going rounds, & have less & less time between runs !!
JMO
My racing buddy has that set up and can cool the engine temp from 200 deg, to 150 in 5-7 min... & in "Bracket" racing or 11.50 Index racing "CONSISTENCY" in the MAIN WORD !!!
& I think by being able to leave the start line at the same temp run after run its a big advantage, especially in HOT weather and if you are going rounds, & have less & less time between runs !!
JMO
#19
I would be "MORE" interested in the ability to "cool" the engine right after a run (I only do 1/4 mile) So if I make a run, I can shut it off in the staging lane, & run the electric WP / & the electric fan...WITH THE ENGINE OFF
My racing buddy has that set up and can cool the engine temp from 200 deg, to 150 in 5-7 min... & in "Bracket" racing or 11.50 Index racing "CONSISTENCY" in the MAIN WORD !!!
& I think by being able to leave the start line at the same temp run after run its a big advantage, especially in HOT weather and if you are going rounds, & have less & less time between runs !!
JMO
My racing buddy has that set up and can cool the engine temp from 200 deg, to 150 in 5-7 min... & in "Bracket" racing or 11.50 Index racing "CONSISTENCY" in the MAIN WORD !!!
& I think by being able to leave the start line at the same temp run after run its a big advantage, especially in HOT weather and if you are going rounds, & have less & less time between runs !!
JMO