Is the Dealer taking advantage? Please help!
11-16-2012, 06:50 PM
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Is the Dealer taking advantage? Please help!
Hello all,
I am very new to posting on this website, although I have frequently browsed this forum whenever I've had a question or a concern. Here's my issue. Key fobbers, unite.
My vehicle: 2008 Corvette C6/Manual
A few months back my single working key fob began to malfunction. The vehicle seemed to no longer pick up the signal of the key fob. Sometimes, hitting the unlock/lock button would not work. It turns out the key fob had a bad connector between the battery and the fob chip. I purchased a new key fob, and then "added" the key to the vehicle. Everything seemed to work fine.
A few days back, I went outside, and started my vehicle to let it warm up. After the vehicle was warmed up, I turned the vehicle off. When I was ready to leave, I went to re-start the vehicle and got the message "No fobs Detected"...However, the unlock/lock buttons on the key fob still functioned although it would not start the car.
Okay....In a nutshell, I tried replacing the battery, and switching the chip from the old key fob, as well as the batteries. Eventually, nothing worked---not even the unlock/lock controls. Inpatiently, I put the key fobs back together, and completed the 3 "10 minute time out" process to relearn the keys. When I inserted the key into the glove box glove, the car did not recognize the fob was there, and the "ready for fob" message remained.
Here's where things get Fishy.
(DAY 1)
A new Chevy dealership opened up around a mile away. I had the vehicle towed from my workplace to the dealership. I told them that I did not have the time to have the key programmed, and that I may need a new key. They said okay, and a day went by.
(DAY 2)
The next morning, A woman from service called me and said that my RCDLR is not responding, and would need to be replaced. She said that the tech could not communicate with the RCDLR. When I spoke to the tech, I asked him if that was necessary, and whether or not he tried the 30 minute process himself.
His answer: "No, I used my machine to check to see if the RCDLR was responding, and it was not. I didn't bother trying the 30 minute process because I didn't need to".
Reluctantly, I accepted the 660 dollar charge for the labor, diagnosis, and installation of a new RCDLR. I will now have to reprogram my vehicle, erasing my Flash tune
.
BUT THE STORY ISN'T OVER...
(DAY 3)
The woman from Service called me up, and said that the new RCDLR is in the car, but the tech is still unable to program my 1 functional key fob to the car. He already determined that one key fob is functional, and one is not (which I already knew). In any case, the woman asked me if I still had my "key fob #1 key", because I will need key fob #1 as well in order to actually program the keys!
IN SYNOPSIS...
They replaced the RCDLR and they still cannot program a key with the functional key fob they already have, and now they are telling me they need a "key fob #1" and that I can't program the car with a "key fob #2"....I thought the keys didn't have numbers until they were programmed to the car!! Is this true? Do I really need to purchase a "key fob #1", or is this a bunch of malarkey and they still can't program the car after replacing my RCDLR?
If their diagnosis is correct and I in fact do NOT need a key fob #1, could anyone provide me some documented proof/reference? It would be great to head over there with the proof (if any) that I did not need a key fob #1, which would certainly aggravate me considering they already replaced my RCDLR and have to reflash the car.
I want to thank you all in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully provide me with a concise knowledgable answer to this dilemma. I look forward to having one of my first questions answered in a forum, and hopefully I can contribute in the future!
I am very new to posting on this website, although I have frequently browsed this forum whenever I've had a question or a concern. Here's my issue. Key fobbers, unite.
My vehicle: 2008 Corvette C6/Manual
A few months back my single working key fob began to malfunction. The vehicle seemed to no longer pick up the signal of the key fob. Sometimes, hitting the unlock/lock button would not work. It turns out the key fob had a bad connector between the battery and the fob chip. I purchased a new key fob, and then "added" the key to the vehicle. Everything seemed to work fine.
A few days back, I went outside, and started my vehicle to let it warm up. After the vehicle was warmed up, I turned the vehicle off. When I was ready to leave, I went to re-start the vehicle and got the message "No fobs Detected"...However, the unlock/lock buttons on the key fob still functioned although it would not start the car.
Okay....In a nutshell, I tried replacing the battery, and switching the chip from the old key fob, as well as the batteries. Eventually, nothing worked---not even the unlock/lock controls. Inpatiently, I put the key fobs back together, and completed the 3 "10 minute time out" process to relearn the keys. When I inserted the key into the glove box glove, the car did not recognize the fob was there, and the "ready for fob" message remained.
Here's where things get Fishy.
(DAY 1)
A new Chevy dealership opened up around a mile away. I had the vehicle towed from my workplace to the dealership. I told them that I did not have the time to have the key programmed, and that I may need a new key. They said okay, and a day went by.
(DAY 2)
The next morning, A woman from service called me and said that my RCDLR is not responding, and would need to be replaced. She said that the tech could not communicate with the RCDLR. When I spoke to the tech, I asked him if that was necessary, and whether or not he tried the 30 minute process himself.
His answer: "No, I used my machine to check to see if the RCDLR was responding, and it was not. I didn't bother trying the 30 minute process because I didn't need to".
Reluctantly, I accepted the 660 dollar charge for the labor, diagnosis, and installation of a new RCDLR. I will now have to reprogram my vehicle, erasing my Flash tune
. BUT THE STORY ISN'T OVER...
(DAY 3)
The woman from Service called me up, and said that the new RCDLR is in the car, but the tech is still unable to program my 1 functional key fob to the car. He already determined that one key fob is functional, and one is not (which I already knew). In any case, the woman asked me if I still had my "key fob #1 key", because I will need key fob #1 as well in order to actually program the keys!
IN SYNOPSIS...
They replaced the RCDLR and they still cannot program a key with the functional key fob they already have, and now they are telling me they need a "key fob #1" and that I can't program the car with a "key fob #2"....I thought the keys didn't have numbers until they were programmed to the car!! Is this true? Do I really need to purchase a "key fob #1", or is this a bunch of malarkey and they still can't program the car after replacing my RCDLR?
If their diagnosis is correct and I in fact do NOT need a key fob #1, could anyone provide me some documented proof/reference? It would be great to head over there with the proof (if any) that I did not need a key fob #1, which would certainly aggravate me considering they already replaced my RCDLR and have to reflash the car.
I want to thank you all in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully provide me with a concise knowledgable answer to this dilemma. I look forward to having one of my first questions answered in a forum, and hopefully I can contribute in the future!
Last edited by Sal Mastropolo; 11-17-2012 at 03:00 PM.
11-17-2012, 08:44 AM
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Hello, bumping because maybe I wrote too much....
In short, do I need a "key fob #1" in order to reprogram the keys for my 2008 c6 base manual? The dealer says that even though they replaced my RCDLR, I will need to purchase a key fob #1 in order to drive away.
In short, do I need a "key fob #1" in order to reprogram the keys for my 2008 c6 base manual? The dealer says that even though they replaced my RCDLR, I will need to purchase a key fob #1 in order to drive away.
11-17-2012, 02:15 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
Reading your message, old guys like me get a little confused.
You talk about "programming the key", and "the key still locked..."
The metal key will unlock your trunk so you can get into the car if the fob system won't let you in, but the metal key is also used as part of the fob progrmming procedure. The metal key is not used at all to open the side doors or start the car.
Could you please use the "Edit" function and change your original post so all the terminology is correct? We need to be clear about locking or unlocking the doors & trunk with the fob, vs emergency unlocking the trunk with the key, vs using the key for re-programming, etc.
Sometimes, these electrons make my head hurt...
You talk about "programming the key", and "the key still locked..."
The metal key will unlock your trunk so you can get into the car if the fob system won't let you in, but the metal key is also used as part of the fob progrmming procedure. The metal key is not used at all to open the side doors or start the car.
Could you please use the "Edit" function and change your original post so all the terminology is correct? We need to be clear about locking or unlocking the doors & trunk with the fob, vs emergency unlocking the trunk with the key, vs using the key for re-programming, etc.
Sometimes, these electrons make my head hurt...
11-17-2012, 02:21 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
In partial answer to your second post, the fobs have the little number on the outside that helps you tell which is which, but they are electrically identical inside except for the electronic id number which allows the car to recognize which fob is being used.
My understanding is that we don't actually train the fob(s), we train the car to recognize the fobs.
Hopefully, wiser minds will join in the discussion.
My understanding is that we don't actually train the fob(s), we train the car to recognize the fobs.
Hopefully, wiser minds will join in the discussion.
11-17-2012, 02:34 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
I can't answer the specific fob question except to say that with some of our electrical issues, simply disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and allowing the ecu to reset can solve some problems. I'd disconnect the battery, wait, then start the fob programming like you did before. I don't have much confidence in the dealerships either, but this was a case of nowhere else for you to go.
11-17-2012, 03:03 PM
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Reading your message, old guys like me get a little confused.
You talk about "programming the key", and "the key still locked..."
The metal key will unlock your trunk so you can get into the car if the fob system won't let you in, but the metal key is also used as part of the fob progrmming procedure. The metal key is not used at all to open the side doors or start the car.
Could you please use the "Edit" function and change your original post so all the terminology is correct? We need to be clear about locking or unlocking the doors & trunk with the fob, vs emergency unlocking the trunk with the key, vs using the key for re-programming, etc.
Sometimes, these electrons make my head hurt...
You talk about "programming the key", and "the key still locked..."
The metal key will unlock your trunk so you can get into the car if the fob system won't let you in, but the metal key is also used as part of the fob progrmming procedure. The metal key is not used at all to open the side doors or start the car.
Could you please use the "Edit" function and change your original post so all the terminology is correct? We need to be clear about locking or unlocking the doors & trunk with the fob, vs emergency unlocking the trunk with the key, vs using the key for re-programming, etc.
Sometimes, these electrons make my head hurt...
Did my best to edit the post
In short, the dealer immediately told me that my key seemed to function fine, and that I needed to replace the RCDLR....After I paid the $660 dollars to have that replaced, they told me I needed to purchase ANOTHER key fob, because the functioning one that they have is actually key fob #2, and they need to purchase key fob #1...
I feel like they didn't need to replace the entire RCDLR on my car...but they did, and the car still won't program with the functioning keyfob that they have..leading me to believe the issue is caused due to a battery issue...I even saw the "battery" meter right
the $660 to get the RCDLR.....
11-17-2012, 03:48 PM
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
I'll take a stab at it (because Jim already has and identified a problem---terminology being one) and because I have an '08. There is a "fob" and there is a metal key. They are completely different.
When you pulled apart fob 1 (I presume it is fob 1, altho the dealer seems to indicate you do not have a fob 1), you first replaced the battery. Then, when that didn't work, I think you state that you took the guts out and put it in a new fob (see the reason for the terminology? you didn't put it in a "key" or a key fob).
If you ask me, there are many things that could be wrong.
1) there may, as you state, be something wrong with the batt. and chip interface;
2) there may be something wrong with the batt, new or old one---there have been issues with some of the replacement batts. that have the "grid pattern" on the rear (do a search or I can find it and include it if it's not easily found);
3) there may be something wrong with what you did --- switching over the internals from one fob to another especially if you touched the chip with your fingers.
Doing #3 may have thrown things off at the dealer making them think that the RCDLR was faulty. I don't know if that's true or not.
I do know that my fobs (both of them, this summer when I replaced the batts.) practically fell apart, chip, batt., everything, when I pulled them apart. I had a bunch of pieces lying on the table!
At this point, I don't know or understand enough about fobs and RCDLRs to know if a new one is/was needed or not. But based on what you did, it may be all you needed was a new fob (about $65-$95 I think I read somewhere in CF), a different batt. (about $4), or somehow putting back together the original fob and batt so that they worked, assuming that they even COULD work. By now, however, it may be that the dealer is correct in what you need. I just don't know; maybe someone else will comment.
As an added comment, the car came with two working fobs. From your original post, I can only assume that you do not have both. But as Jim said, there is a fob 1 and fob 2, and the numbers are on the outside plastic case in very small, raised numbers.
When you pulled apart fob 1 (I presume it is fob 1, altho the dealer seems to indicate you do not have a fob 1), you first replaced the battery. Then, when that didn't work, I think you state that you took the guts out and put it in a new fob (see the reason for the terminology? you didn't put it in a "key" or a key fob).
If you ask me, there are many things that could be wrong.
1) there may, as you state, be something wrong with the batt. and chip interface;
2) there may be something wrong with the batt, new or old one---there have been issues with some of the replacement batts. that have the "grid pattern" on the rear (do a search or I can find it and include it if it's not easily found);
3) there may be something wrong with what you did --- switching over the internals from one fob to another especially if you touched the chip with your fingers.
Doing #3 may have thrown things off at the dealer making them think that the RCDLR was faulty. I don't know if that's true or not.
I do know that my fobs (both of them, this summer when I replaced the batts.) practically fell apart, chip, batt., everything, when I pulled them apart. I had a bunch of pieces lying on the table!
At this point, I don't know or understand enough about fobs and RCDLRs to know if a new one is/was needed or not. But based on what you did, it may be all you needed was a new fob (about $65-$95 I think I read somewhere in CF), a different batt. (about $4), or somehow putting back together the original fob and batt so that they worked, assuming that they even COULD work. By now, however, it may be that the dealer is correct in what you need. I just don't know; maybe someone else will comment.
As an added comment, the car came with two working fobs. From your original post, I can only assume that you do not have both. But as Jim said, there is a fob 1 and fob 2, and the numbers are on the outside plastic case in very small, raised numbers.
Last edited by AORoads; 11-17-2012 at 03:50 PM.
11-17-2012, 03:54 PM
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St. Jude Donor '13
Hello all,
I am very new to posting on this website, although I have frequently browsed this forum whenever I've had a question or a concern. Here's my issue. Key fobbers, unite.
My vehicle: 2008 Corvette C6/Manual
A few months back my single working key fob began to malfunction. The vehicle seemed to no longer pick up the signal of the key fob. Sometimes, hitting the unlock/lock button would not work. It turns out the key fob had a bad connector between the battery and the fob chip. I purchased a new key fob, and then "added" the key to the vehicle. Everything seemed to work fine.
A few days back, I went outside, and started my vehicle to let it warm up. After the vehicle was warmed up, I turned the vehicle off. When I was ready to leave, I went to re-start the vehicle and got the message "No fobs Detected"...However, the unlock/lock buttons on the key fob still functioned although it would not start the car.
Okay....In a nutshell, I tried replacing the battery, and switching the chip from the old key fob, as well as the batteries. Eventually, nothing worked---not even the unlock/lock controls. Inpatiently, I put the key fobs back together, and completed the 3 "10 minute time out" process to relearn the keys. When I inserted the key into the glove box glove, the car did not recognize the fob was there, and the "ready for fob" message remained.
Here's where things get Fishy.
(DAY 1)
A new Chevy dealership opened up around a mile away. I had the vehicle towed from my workplace to the dealership. I told them that I did not have the time to have the key programmed, and that I may need a new key. They said okay, and a day went by.
(DAY 2)
The next morning, A woman from service called me and said that my RCDLR is not responding, and would need to be replaced. She said that the tech could not communicate with the RCDLR. When I spoke to the tech, I asked him if that was necessary, and whether or not he tried the 30 minute process himself.
His answer: "No, I used my machine to check to see if the RCDLR was responding, and it was not. I didn't bother trying the 30 minute process because I didn't need to".
Reluctantly, I accepted the 660 dollar charge for the labor, diagnosis, and installation of a new RCDLR. I will now have to reprogram my vehicle, erasing my Flash tune.
BUT THE STORY ISN'T OVER...
(DAY 3)
The woman from Service called me up, and said that the new RCDLR is in the car, but the tech is still unable to program my 1 functional key fob to the car. He already determined that one key fob is functional, and one is not (which I already knew). In any case, the woman asked me if I still had my "key fob #1 key", because I will need key fob #1 as well in order to actually program the keys!
IN SYNOPSIS...
They replaced the RCDLR and they still cannot program a key with the functional key fob they already have, and now they are telling me they need a "key fob #1" and that I can't program the car with a "key fob #2"....I thought the keys didn't have numbers until they were programmed to the car!! Is this true? Do I really need to purchase a "key fob #1", or is this a bunch of malarkey and they still can't program the car after replacing my RCDLR?
If their diagnosis is correct and I in fact do NOT need a key fob #1, could anyone provide me some documented proof/reference? It would be great to head over there with the proof (if any) that I did not need a key fob #1, which would certainly aggravate me considering they already replaced my RCDLR and have to reflash the car.
I want to thank you all in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully provide me with a concise knowledgable answer to this dilemma. I look forward to having one of my first questions answered in a forum, and hopefully I can contribute in the future!
I am very new to posting on this website, although I have frequently browsed this forum whenever I've had a question or a concern. Here's my issue. Key fobbers, unite.
My vehicle: 2008 Corvette C6/Manual
A few months back my single working key fob began to malfunction. The vehicle seemed to no longer pick up the signal of the key fob. Sometimes, hitting the unlock/lock button would not work. It turns out the key fob had a bad connector between the battery and the fob chip. I purchased a new key fob, and then "added" the key to the vehicle. Everything seemed to work fine.
A few days back, I went outside, and started my vehicle to let it warm up. After the vehicle was warmed up, I turned the vehicle off. When I was ready to leave, I went to re-start the vehicle and got the message "No fobs Detected"...However, the unlock/lock buttons on the key fob still functioned although it would not start the car.
Okay....In a nutshell, I tried replacing the battery, and switching the chip from the old key fob, as well as the batteries. Eventually, nothing worked---not even the unlock/lock controls. Inpatiently, I put the key fobs back together, and completed the 3 "10 minute time out" process to relearn the keys. When I inserted the key into the glove box glove, the car did not recognize the fob was there, and the "ready for fob" message remained.
Here's where things get Fishy.
(DAY 1)
A new Chevy dealership opened up around a mile away. I had the vehicle towed from my workplace to the dealership. I told them that I did not have the time to have the key programmed, and that I may need a new key. They said okay, and a day went by.
(DAY 2)
The next morning, A woman from service called me and said that my RCDLR is not responding, and would need to be replaced. She said that the tech could not communicate with the RCDLR. When I spoke to the tech, I asked him if that was necessary, and whether or not he tried the 30 minute process himself.
His answer: "No, I used my machine to check to see if the RCDLR was responding, and it was not. I didn't bother trying the 30 minute process because I didn't need to".
Reluctantly, I accepted the 660 dollar charge for the labor, diagnosis, and installation of a new RCDLR. I will now have to reprogram my vehicle, erasing my Flash tune
. BUT THE STORY ISN'T OVER...
(DAY 3)
The woman from Service called me up, and said that the new RCDLR is in the car, but the tech is still unable to program my 1 functional key fob to the car. He already determined that one key fob is functional, and one is not (which I already knew). In any case, the woman asked me if I still had my "key fob #1 key", because I will need key fob #1 as well in order to actually program the keys!
IN SYNOPSIS...
They replaced the RCDLR and they still cannot program a key with the functional key fob they already have, and now they are telling me they need a "key fob #1" and that I can't program the car with a "key fob #2"....I thought the keys didn't have numbers until they were programmed to the car!! Is this true? Do I really need to purchase a "key fob #1", or is this a bunch of malarkey and they still can't program the car after replacing my RCDLR?
If their diagnosis is correct and I in fact do NOT need a key fob #1, could anyone provide me some documented proof/reference? It would be great to head over there with the proof (if any) that I did not need a key fob #1, which would certainly aggravate me considering they already replaced my RCDLR and have to reflash the car.
I want to thank you all in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully provide me with a concise knowledgable answer to this dilemma. I look forward to having one of my first questions answered in a forum, and hopefully I can contribute in the future!
Did my best to edit the post
In short, the dealer immediately told me that my key seemed to function fine, and that I needed to replace the RCDLR....After I paid the $660 dollars to have that replaced, they told me I needed to purchase ANOTHER key fob, because the functioning one that they have is actually key fob #2, and they need to purchase key fob #1...
I feel like they didn't need to replace the entire RCDLR on my car...but they did, and the car still won't program with the functioning keyfob that they have..leading me to believe the issue is caused due to a battery issue...I even saw the "battery" meter rightthe $660 to get the RCDLR.....
In short, the dealer immediately told me that my key seemed to function fine, and that I needed to replace the RCDLR....After I paid the $660 dollars to have that replaced, they told me I needed to purchase ANOTHER key fob, because the functioning one that they have is actually key fob #2, and they need to purchase key fob #1...
I feel like they didn't need to replace the entire RCDLR on my car...but they did, and the car still won't program with the functioning keyfob that they have..leading me to believe the issue is caused due to a battery issue...I even saw the "battery" meter right
the $660 to get the RCDLR.....It is also easier to understand if you avoid using the word "keyfob" at all, just say "key" or "fob" unless you (or the dealer) literally mean the complete assembly- the fob with a metal key stored inside of it.
Really, I'm not trying to beat up on you. But this is a complicated situation and I'm still trying to understand what has happened so far.
11-17-2012, 05:47 PM
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I see what you are saying. Unfortunately I do not type about these things enough to be able to note the differences at first glance...
In short, the dealer immediately told me that my FOB seemed to function fine, and that I needed to replace the RCDLR....After I paid the $660 dollars to have that replaced, they told me I needed to purchase ANOTHER key fob, because the functioning one that they have is actually Fob #2, and they need to purchase Fob #1...
I feel like they didn't need to replace the entire RCDLR on my car...but they did, and the car still won't program with the functioning fob that they have..leading me to believe the issue is caused due to a battery issue...I even saw the "battery" meter rightthe $660 to get the RCDLR.....
All about the fobs. The Key does it's job. Opens the trunk, turns on the memory, Fob learn function...Again, they are insisting that I needed to Replace the RCDLR because when trying to program the fob, the message "ready for fob 1" never dissappeared, and after 5 minutes it simply shut off as if it never found the fob in the glove spot.
Now, they are insisting that I purchase ANOTHER fob, even though they are telling me that my existing fob works fine. They insist that I need a fob #1, and that mine is fob#2....I feel like they made me order the RCDLR in error, and that telling me to purchase another fob when I already have one is adding salt to the wound. ....
In short, the dealer immediately told me that my FOB seemed to function fine, and that I needed to replace the RCDLR....After I paid the $660 dollars to have that replaced, they told me I needed to purchase ANOTHER key fob, because the functioning one that they have is actually Fob #2, and they need to purchase Fob #1...
I feel like they didn't need to replace the entire RCDLR on my car...but they did, and the car still won't program with the functioning fob that they have..leading me to believe the issue is caused due to a battery issue...I even saw the "battery" meter rightthe $660 to get the RCDLR.....
All about the fobs. The Key does it's job. Opens the trunk, turns on the memory, Fob learn function...Again, they are insisting that I needed to Replace the RCDLR because when trying to program the fob, the message "ready for fob 1" never dissappeared, and after 5 minutes it simply shut off as if it never found the fob in the glove spot.
Now, they are insisting that I purchase ANOTHER fob, even though they are telling me that my existing fob works fine. They insist that I need a fob #1, and that mine is fob#2....I feel like they made me order the RCDLR in error, and that telling me to purchase another fob when I already have one is adding salt to the wound. ....
11-17-2012, 06:58 PM
#10
Team Owner
Now, they are insisting that I purchase ANOTHER fob, even though they are telling me that my existing fob works fine. They insist that I need a fob #1, and that mine is fob#2....I feel like they made me order the RCDLR in error, and that telling me to purchase another fob when I already have one is adding salt to the wound. ....
As has been explained, there is no difference in the FOB's regardless of the number stamped on the bottom. Functionally they become #1, #2, etc, based on the order they are programmed to the car, not based on the number stamped on the case.
Edit: Oh, and no, I don't have anything to offer as proof to take to the dealer.
Last edited by RicK T; 11-17-2012 at 07:02 PM.
11-24-2012, 09:48 AM
#11
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Just wanted to give a closing update for anyone dealing with the same issue. After facing almost 1,000 dollars in total charges for replacing my RCDLR and Key fob/diagnosis, I lost my temper at the tech for not trying a new key fob on my old RCDLR before installing a new one...
So...
They put the old RCDLR in, used a new key fob and it worked!! Price to fix went from around $950 to 0, since the key fob was covered under warranty. Exciting!
On the down side, there were bolts missing from under my car which I replaced (they fixed my exhaust valve) bolts missing from my front right caliper cover which fell off, and my rocker panels were completely crushed. Showed dealer before-pics of the car without crushed rockers, and so now they have to replace them and paint them. In the end it wasn't all bad.
So...
They put the old RCDLR in, used a new key fob and it worked!! Price to fix went from around $950 to 0, since the key fob was covered under warranty. Exciting!
On the down side, there were bolts missing from under my car which I replaced (they fixed my exhaust valve) bolts missing from my front right caliper cover which fell off, and my rocker panels were completely crushed. Showed dealer before-pics of the car without crushed rockers, and so now they have to replace them and paint them. In the end it wasn't all bad.
11-24-2012, 01:55 PM
#12
Safety Car
I know that this wasn't an issue in this case but I wanted to offer a reminder to new folks with these cars. You will almost certainly have issues with the fobs being seen by the car if you have the fob in your pocket alongside your phone. I know my car won't start (won't see the fob) if my iPhone and the fob are in the same pocket
Just a reminder/FYI.
Z//
Just a reminder/FYI.
Z//
11-24-2012, 07:38 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
WOW! What a cluster this was for you. I am just glad it all got worked out in the end and for $0 FTW. I just replaced the battery in my fob last week when it suddenly would not open or lock the car. First, I took the FOB to the dealer and they tested it saying some keys worked and others did not; the battery was not an issue so they said. They offered me to pay north of $200 for a new fob plus additional programming fees for it and I declined. I went home and magically found the correct CR2032 battery (IIRC) in my toolbox, pried the fob open (I swore I broke the damn thing but did not apparently) and switched out the batteries and then put it all back together summarily. VOILA...I could unlock my car from Orlando now if I wanted to. The message I took home was that many times the dealer just doesn't know what the hell is going on sometimes...or were they trying to take advantage of me? Not saying, just asking.