Hood heat extract brackets
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Hood heat extract brackets
Has anybody ever seen something like these hood heat extract brackets. There's a company in Germany that sells these, called TIKT.
http://dev.tikt.de/wp/?page_id=225
They are supposed to work very well on the track, a reduction of 10 degrees Celsius for the water and oil temps is stated, price is a bit steep though.
I'm wondering if there's a more friendly priced alternative, maybe someone in the US made something similar ?
Fred
http://dev.tikt.de/wp/?page_id=225
They are supposed to work very well on the track, a reduction of 10 degrees Celsius for the water and oil temps is stated, price is a bit steep though.
I'm wondering if there's a more friendly priced alternative, maybe someone in the US made something similar ?
Fred
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Spacers probably will work, but I was hoping for a solution in the line of this, only not as expensive, I mean it's 230 Euro = 289 Dollar
#6
Tech Contributor
The base of the windshield is a high pressure zone (recall cowl induction hoods and that's where your cabin air comes from). Are you sure this mod will do what you want it to do?
I've actually seen my hood rise up going down the track when I didn't latch it by mistake....it will rise about 3"-4" on its own if you don't latch it...not more that that.
I've actually seen my hood rise up going down the track when I didn't latch it by mistake....it will rise about 3"-4" on its own if you don't latch it...not more that that.
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
Posts: 16,555
Received 2,061 Likes
on
1,505 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Even cheaper, like $0, is removing the rubber seal at the back. It's not quite as effective, but doesn't change the appearance one bit.
Longer bolts and stacks of washers on the current latches will work as well.
I've used that trick since the late '50's, so it's nothing new.
Longer bolts and stacks of washers on the current latches will work as well.
I've used that trick since the late '50's, so it's nothing new.
#8
Track Junky
Any track guys remove the rear engine compartment seal?
#9
Melting Slicks
There is a thread right now in the Z06 section titled "NACA duct", with many of these same questions.
Some of stated that at high speeds this venting will cause some lift. Kind of makes sense: high pressure zone is going to draw under the hood and wreck some of the natural down force of the car. However, it will help with some cooling.
I removed the weatherstrip for street use, and yes it helps with cooling,
Some of stated that at high speeds this venting will cause some lift. Kind of makes sense: high pressure zone is going to draw under the hood and wreck some of the natural down force of the car. However, it will help with some cooling.
I removed the weatherstrip for street use, and yes it helps with cooling,
#10
Track Junky
Any track guys remove the rear engine compartment seal?
#12
Safety Car
http://www.tikt.de/wp/?page_id=225
Here's the home page (for the Corvette stuff):
http://www.tikt.de/wp/
Here's their contact page:
http://www.tikt.de/wp/?page_id=75
Don't worry about the language issue. They can deal with it.
Z//
#14
I did mine old school with T6 aluminum, simple & effective, without excessive gap for rain or car wash to get passed once installed.
Hood closed and locked:
Also have 1" x 1" insulation foam glued on, under the very center of the hood, when hood is down, foam rest above the oem weather seal. It is used to support the hood with just enough tension to prevent hood vibration.
Hood closed and locked:
Also have 1" x 1" insulation foam glued on, under the very center of the hood, when hood is down, foam rest above the oem weather seal. It is used to support the hood with just enough tension to prevent hood vibration.
#16
Size of the gap is personal, same principle applies.
Even though mine is not the one incher and appears to be solid, but internally is gutted, mirror polished before install.
If it is without resource, most old school type just use washers, tubing and such. Many ways to skin a cat.
Even though mine is not the one incher and appears to be solid, but internally is gutted, mirror polished before install.
If it is without resource, most old school type just use washers, tubing and such. Many ways to skin a cat.
#17
Race Director
I don't "Track" my car on a Road Course, I only race 1/4 mile, however last week I was driving home in NJ and it was 90 deg outside, and traffic was only moving about 25-30 mph..
I have a 160 T Stat but my car was still running at 200 deg. I also have a manual fan switch that permits me to run the fan on Hi or Lo no matter what the engine temp is.
I had the fan on Lo.. and just figured I'd try to "Unlatch" the hood.. I just unlatched the hood, & the back of it opened about 2" and I kept driving at 25-30 mph with back of the hood unlatched, and at a few times traffic opened up enough for me to get to 50-55 mph... My engine temp went down to 180-185 deg..
Now in the future I don't see any harm in unlatching the hood at low speeds..
Can someone please inform me what would happen if I had my hood unlatched and drove over 80-90 mph.. I don't think it would "OPEN" as it would have to fully go up into the wind ?? It DID open up about another 1/2" at 50 mph... But I cant justify getting special locks or attachments to HOLD the hood open 1-2" in normal driving..
I WONT leave it open on the Drag Strip as I am up to app 120 mph & I don't know what would happen.....
I have a 160 T Stat but my car was still running at 200 deg. I also have a manual fan switch that permits me to run the fan on Hi or Lo no matter what the engine temp is.
I had the fan on Lo.. and just figured I'd try to "Unlatch" the hood.. I just unlatched the hood, & the back of it opened about 2" and I kept driving at 25-30 mph with back of the hood unlatched, and at a few times traffic opened up enough for me to get to 50-55 mph... My engine temp went down to 180-185 deg..
Now in the future I don't see any harm in unlatching the hood at low speeds..
Can someone please inform me what would happen if I had my hood unlatched and drove over 80-90 mph.. I don't think it would "OPEN" as it would have to fully go up into the wind ?? It DID open up about another 1/2" at 50 mph... But I cant justify getting special locks or attachments to HOLD the hood open 1-2" in normal driving..
I WONT leave it open on the Drag Strip as I am up to app 120 mph & I don't know what would happen.....
Last edited by jpee; 06-15-2013 at 06:55 PM.
#18
Tech Contributor
^^jpee it will go up about 3-4" and block your vision depending how tall you sit in the saddle. It's scary, happened to me once when I forgot to latch the hood after sitting in the lanes. I strongly advise against ever unlatching your hood.
Last edited by Joe_G; 06-15-2013 at 08:55 PM.
#19
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,094
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
The base of the windshield is a high pressure zone (recall cowl induction hoods and that's where your cabin air comes from). Are you sure this mod will do what you want it to do?
I've actually seen my hood rise up going down the track when I didn't latch it by mistake....it will rise about 3"-4" on its own if you don't latch it...not more that that.
I've actually seen my hood rise up going down the track when I didn't latch it by mistake....it will rise about 3"-4" on its own if you don't latch it...not more that that.
Bill
#20
Tech Contributor