victorf

delete this post

MisterMidlifeCrisis

Nice mods, and undoubtedly will help. I do think there's also a lot of benefit to just using long, level runs of tubing from the engine to the catch can. My runs are three feet long to the catch can, and after driving it, there's a noticeable difference in how hot the hose is near the engine versus near the catch can. I've run about 10000 miles with a stock catch can and my intake is dry with just a very, very light haze on the surfaces that barely stains a white cloth.

099blancoss

enhanced surface area and an adequate distance from intake to exhaust is what you need for very effective can.

that's unacceptable, there should be no film at all

JCtx

How about just a bracket to be able to install catch can between right hood hinge (passenger compartment) and the electronic component about 2-1/2" apart? I have a picture of a 2" catch can installed there, but it's narrower than most. I'm going to gamble ordering an AMW catch can, which I really like because if I order a black one, everything is black, including the bracket and fittings, for a stealthy installation. I'll have to test installing the bracket just above the electronic component (don't know what it is, but can't be relocatead). I've always bought EE catch cans, but couldn't get it installed this time with the baffle, so returned it. The location I mentioned is perfect, because is significantly cooler than next to the engine, and the long hose runs help further with that. Unfurtunately, the EE catch can is even wider than the 2-1/2" of the AMW. I suspect 3", so might not even work with a bracket. Hope you can test it there and give us your comments. Good job.

MisterMidlifeCrisis

I don't know if that film is from the thousand or so miles I put on the car before the catch can install, or from the 12000 miles afterwards, but it is minimal enough and I've driven it hard enough to be satisfied that it is working "well enough". I've got lots of other items to address that are of a more critical nature than removing the last little bit of blowby, IMO.

glenB

I had meant adding fins as a feature of the can, like some of the fancy serviceable oil filters. You will of course have to machine a new bottom half of the can, but it looks like you have the capability.

Did you use any medium to help transfer the temp from the can to the heat sink ?

In moving the can, how about moving it forward by the radiator ?

Neumonic2002

Nicely done Victor!!

JRHAWK9

Today I just messed around with my system. Nothing like you did with yours though. I simply added to the length of hose coming from the motor. I now have about 10-11' of hose before the "dirty" air gets to the catch can. I'm hoping it's enough to cool down the vapor some. I have it routed along the side of the radiator on the passenger side, then in front of the airbox to the other side of the radiator. Then along the side of the radiator along the drivers side, then along the top rear of the radiator back to the catch can. It basically makes a complete 10-11' foot loop around the airbox and radiator. I also placed a temporary air compressor filter inline AFTER the catch can, just to see if it catches any additional vapor.

JRHAWK9

I have already scrapped what I have done (without even starting the car back up...lol) and have decided to try something different. I don't like the idea of using a compressor filter, as it's designed for pressure, not vacuum and it's not designed for oil. I just didn't feel good about leaving it there. I plan on moving the catch can next to the radiator on the passenger's side, like someone did -HERE-. I have the same Mike Norris can, so I should be good to go. Then I may run either copper or aluminum pipe for a bit to cool down the vapor. I then will add a glass inline fuel filter inline on the "return" side to monitor how well the can performs. I am also going to add another one inline on the fresh air line that I can monitor too.

JCtx

May I suggest trying next to the hood hinge, right next to the airbag sensor. I'm pretty sure that can fits there, but measure it; it has to be 2-1/2" in diameter or less. I'll try with the AMW I have on the way, which is right at the max. It's much easier to drill, and to remove can for evacuation. And you can route the hoses much neater as well. But if not, the location you linked is my second choice. Last choice is attached to the baffle (I have a picture somewhere of exactly my can on that location). I can drill next to the airbag sensor with my Dremel attachment, but the linked location requires an angled drill attachment for sure, and I'd have to buy one. Good luck, and please keep us posted.

JRHAWK9

Good idea. It seems like it will work fine there, as there looks to be a good 1/2" or so clearance with my can.. I like it better, as the can will be mounted vertical and not at an angle. I have the can already to be mounted, I just need to get a new 1/4" bit, as mine is duller than dull. I am using my pneumatic angle die grinder to drill, it fits in that area just fine. What I will be doing is taking a bolt and making a stud with it. I will use the existing large hole for the air bag sensor to fit the head in, then I will drill a 1/4" wide slot over roughly 1/2" to where it will be bolted. This way there's no need to worry about stripping the hole if you want to remove it a few times, as that metal is not all that thick. The 1/4" bolt will have a washer on the back side, then on the front side I will place another washer, then a nut to tighten the bolt, so it becomes a rigid stud. Then I will place another washer, then the catch can bracket, then another washer and then finally a lock nut to tighten the catch can down with. This will also keep the can away from contacting anything, which may be a source for noise.

I should have it finished up tomorrow, hopefully.

JCtx

That's a good idea too man. Make sure to document your project with pics . My can requires 2 screws from inside the bracket, so have to go with holes myself. I'll probably put blue loctite on the screws, to prevent them from getting loose over time. Hey, could you measure your can's diameter to see if I have a chance to install mine at the same location? Many thanks. Looking forward to your finished project.

MisterMidlifeCrisis

How about between the fuse box and the battery? The can is vertical, and the long hose run is beneficial and are nearly horizontal. It's cool there, and fabbing the bracket took just minutes. The bolt for the hood hinge holds it tight.

JRHAWK9

I just measured my AMW can on my Firehawk with my digital caliper and it measures 2.5" on the button. Mine measures 2". You're going to be pushing it I think. I don't have any issues with my can clearing, although the mounting bracket is only a 1/4" or so away from the hood arm when in the closed position. If you close the hood you can go underneath with a light and look up to see the clearance. I have it mounted so I have clearance around the whole can, as no part of the can touches anything but the mounting bracket. The "stud" approach seemed to work great. I have it mounted on one "stud", but it's tight enough where one can't move/rotate it unless you really try. I wouldn't have been comfortable mounting it with just a lag/sheet metal screw. I don't think I could have tightened it enough for my liking. It's basically just as tight as it was when I had it mounted to the head with the OEM supplied bolt/spacer. I will try to get some pictures tomorrow. It took me longer than expected tonight as I wanted to paint the bare metal from drilling the 1/4" x 1/2" long slot. I had to wait for that to dry.

JRHAWK9

That looks like it would work too! Might make replacing the battery tricky, but it looks like it removed easy enough, so that really isn't much of a issue.

JCtx

Indeed . But it's just a matter of tilting it ever so slightly. The problem is the bottom of the radiator plastic shroud is in the way. Otherwise it'd barely clear perfectly vertical. I have to run a test with the top fitting installed, to see if I can raise it a little to clear everything, or just put a piece of foam tape at the radiator shroud to avoid direct contact. Plastic doesn't get hotter than the can, so no worries there. With the foam tape, it shouldn't make any noises. But I'm almost sure there's enough clearance on top to lift it slightly. The good news is there's a lot of room under the can to drain it with a plastic cup without having to remove it. Have to work on other cars, but will finish this project next week, and keep the gang posted. By the way, the screws are pretty hefty, and the bracket holes are angled, so you can put all the pressure you need to tighten them. Not worried at all the screws will come loose. And the nice thing about this can is you cannot see any screws at all; looks factory. And functionally, it's the best I've seen by far, and I had EEs before. More than enough for a NA engine, especially in a relatively cool place. Good day gang.

JRHAWK9

That's good. I actually put a ball valve on mine and have a piece of hose attached to it that extends to the bottom of the car. I just have to slide a pan/cup under the corner of the car and turn a lever 90° to drain it.

I would be more concerned with what you are screwing it to than anything. The can's screws/mounting setup is fine, it's just that the metal support we are screwing it to is not all that thick. It won't take much effort at all to strip out those screws. Back before I decided to create a stud I was going to drill/tap a hole, but there was just not a whole lot of material there to work with. If one could only get to the backside of the support and use a bolt/nut, that would be better than just a sheet metal screw or bolt. You can have the best bolt in the world, but when you are screwing into sheet metal it's not going to hold much...lol

Mine on my Firehawk seems to work fine, although I may move that one too. Right now I have it bolted to the engine with very short leads. I don't know what one is "better" though. I did read -THIS- thread awhile ago and The Bat Car stated that his Mike Norris can worked good.

JRHAWK9

nice! Not all of us have access to the tools you obviously do!

Here are my pics. Boy, the black paint sure doesn't seem to match in the camera flash!

JRHAWK9

I'm sure you have or have access to a machine shop though. I would be very impressed if you sat down with a demel and drill and fabricated everything.

I plan on picking up a 3/8" vacuum cap to put over the end of the drain hose. This will keep oil from dripping out after I drain the can. What I didn't show was the glass fuel filter I have in place between the outlet of the can and the intake manifold. I am hoping this will be just a temporary thing so I can monitor how clean the vapor is exiting the can.

MIGHTYM0USE

ive got some experience in this area and agree with not bolting it to the head.

ive got about $50 tied up in mine with the sight tube on the side and mesh inside, drain on bottom, catches a good amount.