SteveDoten

This has been posted dozens of times, there is no reason to use a fork to seperate the ball joint

WHY? you will tear the grease boot for the ball joint, leading to increased wear attracting dirt/water

Use the Kent Moore tool or hit the spindle with a hammer

I'd put the fork suggestion up there with using a jack to loosen the brake caliper bracket bolts...............not smart.

glenB

Yea right, have used it for years without fault. As a matter of fact, just used it yesterday. Put some Lucas on it, two whacks and bingo with no damage to the boot, meanwhile, you're still dinkin with your tool.

And that brake caliper bracket as you call it, is called an ABUTMENT

madmax4499

Forks are for Rookies! been a mechanic for 25 years and still dont own one!

Joe_G

BFH is the tool of choice.

Divvi

SteveDoten

Exactly, I have never used a fork on a C5/6; changed a wheel bearing for a local Z06 owner on Saturday, 45 minutes car was back on the ground...........we had discussed the 'fork' comments posted here on the forum

timd38

I am a rookie and have had a fork for over 37 years and continue to use it. Must be lucky becasue I haven't ripped any boots.

Also the fork makes a good log splitter......

tjwong

I got the KM tools, its a cake walk to separate the joints using this tool. Using a BFH to get the joints to separate is a big NO NO in my books, not only does it look like some amateur was in the beating the crap out of it but it isn't good for the part as well.

victorf

Down here, the camp that knows everything and use the BGH for everything - we call them "Hammer Mechanics"!

Its all good, we just leave them alone!

tjwong

You can find the GM KM tools on Flea Bay for a decent price. That is where I get the majority of my GM special tools.

victorf

^^Technically, "Ball Peen Hammer" is designed for cold flow metal by peening, works wonders when used by experienced hands.

Very entertaining web surfing.

FireRoc

Tend to agree. Using a single hamme, in my books, is a big NO NO. I was taught by my Dad (a front end man for over eight years, Class A mechanic, and instructor....now retired) to use TWO hammers. One goes behind the spindle/tie-rod end and then hit the piece with the other hammer.

This permits the energy from the blow to travel through the part and transfer to the other hammer, thereby preventing the part from being bent by the hit. It distorts the part to allow the ball joint to pop out but does not damage the part.

I cringe every time I see someone whacking away with just one hammer. It certaainly will not happen on my cars.

victorf

Another confirmation on "What is a Hammer Mechanic". Entertaining to see they always come up with creditentials - like that would make it true!

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Lets look at the physical attributes how the those parts are put together:

1. Precisely machined male taper & female mating taper for proper fit.

2. Castle draw nut on male taper threaded portion for maintaining torqued tension.

3. Cotter pin for captivation.

4. Rubber boot to contain grease for lubrication.

When the four components are assembled, it is in an inline tension. To break that tension properly without distortion, it is best to apply force in line. Tool design engineer designed tool for specific application and toolmaker makes them! When softer metal is being striked with harden hammer directly from the side, whether it is one, two or.....the softer metal distort to yield and that distortion is permanent - it is measurable - but most people don't bother, all they care is A-arm/tie rod is free!!

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Most mechanic lacks indepth metal working knowledge and under pressure to satisfied speedy turn around with R&R, he/she resorts to the quickest means. Does it make it gospel?

That is where knowledge comes in, which enables finesse in work practices and not following blindly!

Sorry about hurting your feelings!

Bluewasp

Do u have part numbers for the kent Moore tools?

jdwk

Kent-Moore J-42188-B

I just tried buying one off of Ebay and it closed at $300 plus shipping. I can almost buy two whole new control arms for that.

I used the fork and ripped my boot, but bought C4 urethane boots and the knuckle smashes it on their pretty good. It may not be the perfect seal that the stock boot is, but I bet it lasts for years.

It seems like there should be a cheaper version of the KM tool that should work. I can't justify $300 for a tool I am only going to use a couple times.

Actually last time I needed to work on my diff, I just took both control arms off as one big piece. I have a firestone lifetime alignment so it didn't cost me anything to get it realigned other than my time.