5clubLS2

Need help with one last issue and I can call this project complete. I am around 520hp at crank, what type of clutch system will be best for me. I guess what I want to know is whats the best clutch system out there for the money? I am tired of this clutch sticking and not grabbing gears, I gave up too many races because of this. I dont exepct to do anymore modding but still want room to grow (you know its never really your last mod, it never ends) but dont want to spend a ton of money. What clutch upgrades did you guys do? and what was the cost? and where to get them? Anything I should beware of?

TNTC4VETTE

Monster Stage 3, Mantic ER2, or if you're cheap and don't dig race much...there's always the old stand-by LS7.

5clubLS2

Whats the story on the ZR1 clutchs?

C7&7

500 at the flywheel the LS7 clutch would be a good choice. That's what I run with 506 at the rear wheels and it is working great. Same as stock pedal feel and everything. I alsi did the lightweight flywheel also.

5clubLS2

Where did you buy your setup? did you change solenoid?

timd38

Centerforce twin disk.

That being said, I have over 500 at the wheels and my stock clutch works fine.

I ave a Centerforce sitting in the garage fo the day I need it.

C7&7

I Bought everything from Josh at horsepower addicts here on the forum. I did the ls7 clutch, Ram aluminum flywheel, new slave, remote bleeder, and all arp hardware.

He made me a hell of a deal.

It would be the perfect clutch for you if you're looking for something that feels stock and holds good power.

C7&7

Monster stage 2 would be a good choice to. Good friend of mine runs it with 470 to the tire. It costs a bit more.

lockman

I have 503 at the wheels and the stock clutch hold great but I also don't have sticky tires that would make the clutch not hold as good. I will be looking for a new one soon though.

JUIC3D

I thought you said you wanted a less expensive one? ZR1 clutch adapted to an LS2 or LS3 is $1300 by itself.

You never said what kind of racing you do. Roll racing? Drag racing?
Is yours an LS2 or LS3? If its an LS3, you already have an LS7 clutch so changing to that would be, well, silly

If you're going to be pushing the car hard in a dragstrip type environment, I'd put a stronger clutch than you need, so it doesn't have to work as hard to hold the power. I'd rather have too much clutch, than not enough and considering how big of a job it is, I'd hate to have to change it in the future.

My car makes 517whp/462wtq and goes consistent 10s with a personal best of 10.6@129 on a 1.48 60ft. Stock clutch, stock gears(3.42). Video is in my signature.

My stock clutch still works, but it's not reliable. Sometimes it holds, sometimes it slips so I went with the Mantic twin disc and I'll be installing it a week from today.

The guys at ECS are top notch and assured me it will meet and exceed all my expectations.

Here are some pics of the Mantic unit. It's a really nice piece and I'm excited to see how it performs.

GARY2004Z06

There are so many to consider when purchasing a clutch. Two things that we find particularly important to consider are use and longevity. The initial price becomes less important with our Vettes since it is very labor intensive which equates to time and money. If you wish to launch the car hard and want to get a long and useful life out of it, we recommend an RPS twin. We went with their BC2 but their non-billet is excellent also. Here's a few fact about the clutch.
Has sustained launches well above 6000 rpm.
The car 60's in the mid to high 1.3s about 35% of the time. Best 60' of 1.351.
Clutch wear was minimal when inspected after 131 launches and thousands of street miles.
The clutch feels about 20% greater than stock. With that said, my 115 lb. wife drives the car.
We believe that RPS makes the best street/strip clutch on the market.
Good luck with whatever you choose.

099blancoss

I've always had good luck with Mcleod ( what I currently run as well) and they are rebuildable at like $80 /disk.

TRBOKEV

You loose races because your clutch is "sticking"?
Do you mean "slipping"?

If it's "sticking" as in not disengaging, then you may have a clutch master cylinder problem. I change/flush my fluid every six months.

GARY2004Z06

You have accomplished a great deal on the stock clutch.
However, that's quite an endorsement for a clutch that has not yet been installed. It is very pretty though and I dig that fancy briefcase. Looks like something that James Bond owns.

JUIC3D

True. If there were awards for the best packaging, Mantic would take the gold for sure.

Regarding endorsement, I'm just going off their 100% satisfaction guarantee that they provided for me in my original "what clutch should I buy thread". They are well aware that I'm active on the boards and will be reporting both good, and bad about the clutch and given their constant backing, I feel comfortable and confident it will exceed my expectations. If it doesn't. . . well I'll take it back out and likely throw in a RXT or Centerforce.

Detoxx03

I went with the LS9R

AORoads

per detoxx, I have read from a vendor on here (richierichZ06) that the katech ls9r clutch is great and little to no extra effort. it is not inexpensive tho from what I recall.

JUIC3D

$1600 for a stock clutch is too much for me. I've also read multiple people with issues on that clutch during drag strip abuse.

I think it would be fine to hold the power, but you'll have to analyze what you'll be doing with the car and put in a clutch accordingly.

Detoxx03

It's not exactly a stock clutch but to each it's own.

JUIC3D

LS9X is a stock clutch with a different flywheel with the correct bolt pattern.
LS9R is the same stock clutch disks with a 20% stiffer pressure plate and the same flywheel.