LeMans05C6

Well about a year and a half ago now i rebuilt my LS2 to a 6.6L stroker with about 500rwp and 480 tq. Not crazy high numbers but it is a Daily Driver and HPDE car for some weekends. With the new build i got more heat so i didn't do as many HPDEs last year as i would have liked. So far i have easily put 15k miles on the car since the motor was done with 4 HPDE weekends on it now. I have heard 15k miles for my cam since it isn't too Crazy.

Cam = 234/238 114+2, .603/.604. So I don't have much more than magical .600 lift i heard was hard on springs but i am over it so i don't want to risk it.

I've just been browsing the internet today a little and saw the Patriot Gold LS Dual Valve springs, not the Extremes which seem overkill for me but the duals wouldn't be bad.

On the other had i worry about extra friction wear from a dual spring and don't want to mess up the internals by putting TOO strong a spring in there, I just figure it may be getting near time to replace them, mostly as preventative maintenence, but I was curious what the best way to go is.

Please advise.

Also anyone know what a shop typically charges to change valve springs, i don't know how many hours that would take a shop.

C7&7

I am of the opinion you should consider dual springs. The Comp 921s are tried and true, and I have used them. I am currently running the 8019 spring that cam on my AFR heads. It has been ok so far. I would not cheap out on springs.

I would say a valve spring change out takes 2-3 hours start to finish.

0HinsonSuperCars

I would go with a dual spring over a single spring, more insurance. Lunati makes a nice dual spring kit that's affordable. Most shops are going to charge you anywhere from 2-4 hours.

http://hinsonsupercars.com/p-1308-lu...g-kit-660.aspx

LeMans05C6

With my specs and driving habits am i looking at replacing the springs too soon or is it about time? Don't need to waste money if nothing is wrong with the car.

Previous springs were what Total Engine Airflow put in for its previous stage 2.5 LS2 head package (i guess now stage too after checking the website) dual springs for up to .650 lift. Thier website now reads (custom PAC dual .650” spring and Titanium retainers.
) for what its worth.

So if those are in there already, I would think i have a good spring in there.

Please let me know your thoughts guys.

Joe_G

I have had great luck with Patriot Gold springs as have many. I replace them at 20k miles or so. Not a bad job to do your self if you buy the comp dual spring compressor. Easy job actually. Shouldn't be more than a few hours for shop time.

I don't recall ever reading of a failure of a Patriot Gold spring.

Gering

OP: Take a look at these http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...e-Springs.html

staticki

Mine are running strong with about 3k on them. The only downside is now my engine bay sounds like a typewriter...

Joe_G

Might want to check your rocker arm swipe on your valves....you might need different length pushrods or even adjustable rockers?

FNBADAZ06

When I finally put the Katech 110 Torquer in my LS7, I'm going with the beehive spring route. Katech has done a ton of R&D on valve train harmonics, and based on their testing they spec this spring for all their street engine packages.....hard to beat that.

Torquer 110 Specifications 220 / 244 @ .050, .615 / .648 lift, 110 LSA +004


The matching Katech high lift valve springs used...

"
This 65g lightweight beehive spring is Katech's default for all engine packages. Optron valvetrain dynamics testing revealed this spring was the best choice to keep lightweight valves such as LS6 and LS7 in control.


Spring Specifications
Weight 65g
OD 1.290
ID .630
Install height LS6 1.800
Install height LS7 1.850
Seat Pressure LS6 120lbs.
Seat Pressure LS7 113lbs
Open Pressure 360lbs @ 1.175
Rate 384 lb/in
Max lift LS6 .625
Max lift LS7 .700
Coil Bind 1.100
"

sallen619

These came with my heads from AI.

I believe they are the PSI Max Life Beehive spring.

DSOMC6

Been running Manley dual springs for 10's of thousands of miles on 600+ lift cams and never had a single problem with them.

Changing valve springs every 20, 30 or even 40k miles is old school and over kill to be honest. The quality of material in the springs today should net you more miles than that.

FNBADAZ06

PSI LS 1511's

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

I would agree 100%

Not knowing what lobe family that cam is in, you don't know what the ramp rates are on the lobes, but given the size you wouldn't go wrong with a set of 921's.

Like Tim said though, don't cheap out on springs...they are much easier to replace than a valve head stuck in a piston.


As far as spring life, that is going to depend on how the car is driven, and taken care of. Letting the oil come up to temp before really pushing the car is one good thing to do. Hitting it hard when it is cold can lead to minor fractures of the spring and early failure of the springs on the car. Of course the size and ramps of the cam lobe will play into how much life you will get from them.

Same thing with the brand of spring. There are a number of springs on the market that would handle the lift and duration of the cam but for how long?

old motorhead

??Whaaaat??? Anyone who knows anything knows the value of a piston with a valve imprint on it sitting on one's desk. Priceless conversation piece

Gering

Great post Anthony, thanks for the info.

C7&7

OP, what heads are you running? I have a set of 8017 AFR springs I will let go cheap. They are a dual spring rated to .600.

Billdog350

PAC 1518's. Why single beehive springs vs duals like everyone here listed? BECAUSE MY DUALS FAILED! I had PRC gold duals, cam was just a .588/.590 lift so we're not talking overkill. These were PRE Assembled heads from PRC/Texas Speed so you know the seat pressure, shimming, etc was all tested and considered. The springs didn't even last 30k mi. I have pics of all of the broken springs to show that the inner springs failed, tore out the valve seals, and caused general destruction inside my motor. This motor was only spun to a conservative 6500rpm max, and Mobil 1 was used religiously.

Now for the beehive argument. GM uses them on motors that are designed to last over 100,000 mi with NO maintenance or replacement! Almost every OEM out there to my knowledge uses SINGLE springs! Why would anyone want to complicate things and potentially cause harm with a dual setup? If a LS7, LS3, LS2, LS1, etc all use single beehive...why would we go dual?

I did my research and was very happy with the PAC 1518's. Nitrided spring, properly tempered and good quality control, etc.

http://www.racingsprings.com/1500_Series/sku/6

I don't work for PAC, I'm just a weekend mechanic who has built an LS1 and LS2, and seen the destruction from dual springs on his "mild" cam car.

I'm sure I might stir up some controversy with this statement but I feel very strongly about my LS1 failure and I don't want anyone to have the problems I did.

MikeSVT04

I'm looking at Livernoise Dual spings for my build. This is what my shop recommended.

I don't think there has ever been a failure reported with this sping.

JUIC3D

You're the first I've heard of to have a problem with the Patriots.

I can only assume the reason GM didn't install duals from the factory is that their cam profiles aren't extreme like many of us run in our daily drivers. I went with Patriot extreme .660 lift springs in my relatively small .600/.615 lift cammed car. I always let the motor warm up before taking it past 3500rpms and will be sure to swap them out every 25k miles or so anyway. It's cheap insurance for piece of mind.

099blancoss

Everyone and their brother has a spring and a recommendation..LOL
A good double will do.. You have PAC, TSP, Patriot, Livernoise, Katech, Comp, Manley, Lunati, PSI, AFR.. who did I leave out ?
We have always had good luck with PAC. Chose your poison.. The PAC double is about the most expensive and is regarded as one of the very best... 1521