GrantB

I've seen guides for how to repair bad solders on C5 EBCMs, and seen people mention it's possible on C6s. I've gotten this far:



I've got the three screws out that hold this PCB onto the case, but am unsure if there's a way to separate the two? The connector on the other side of the case surely connects to the PCB in some manner. Gently pulling on the PCB does nothing, and I don't want to damage anything by pulling too hard. Does anyone know if there's a way to separate them?

Thanks. There are a few questionable-looking joints on top I'm going to reflow, but I'd really like to get to everything underneath too. I'm guessing the brownish stain is a sign of water intrusion. Or maybe just excess flux.

GrantB

This post talks about pulling the controller board from its casing, but I've no idea how to do this without breaking something.

ClothSeats

You can change the title if you click on "Edit", then click on "Go Advanced".

Dano523

Heat gun on the back side of the metal case to warm it up to soften the sealant, since there are a few spots of sealant on the bottom of the board that holds it to the inside of the case as well. Don't use heat directly to the board side.

GrantB

Thanks! I have already put it back in the car, with no error codes yet. If they come back I'll try that.

Once the sealant is soft, how hard do you need to pull the PCB to get it out of the case?

GrantB

Well I pulled the unit off again to try a heat gun. I made a tool to hook around the edge of the PCB so I could pull it out, and it definitely seems like it is glued somewhere along the bottom. However leaving the heat gun on it and pulling as hard as I dare still doesn't budge it. Has anyone else had success with this? If so is there a specific spot you concentrated the heat?

Thanks. I may also try an oven; I bet the PCB components are rated to 125C.