JayplaySS2

Very nice job John. I can't wait to tear back into mine after Christmas-

taken19

Jay, what do you have in mind this time?

Sean

JayplaySS2

Just simple TEA/AI stage 2 ported 243's and an LS3 maf 102 tb, as long as my budget allows. If so, I'll end up having Vengance retune it as well- I'll post it all up

LS1LT1

Nice results, car should fly.

Neumonic2002

Thanks! Looking forward to your thread/results with the new combo!

Thank you, looking forward to some track time!

Joe_G

Any word on SLIR re-opening or the new MAR status?

taken19

I have the AI ported 243's and I'm pleased with the results. Made 468/445 on Jeremy's Mustang and 485/440 on a local Dynojet in the August Miami heat (full bolt-ons and Spin's 230/234 cam). Either of those choices are great value for the dollar.

You should make some good power with that cam you are running. You made 447 rwhp on Jeremy's Mustang on stock heads, right? That's more like 465-475 on a Dynojet. You will be flirting with 500 rwhp after the heads.

Good luck!

tjwong

You had mentioned that you used ARP bolts? If so if I were you I would go back in and retorque all the head bolts after several heat cycles. I have had one car loose head gaskets because the bolts worked loose after three track sessions. Since then if I ever use ARP bolts I have the customer return for a retorque. I have since stopped using ARP bolts all together and have switched to ARP studs and have never had a problem since. I only use them if a customer insists on aftermarket bolts and refuses to switch to studs because of the expense of the studs.

Joe_G

That is good advice coming from experience.

What are the downsides of the factory bolts except their one time use?

jim2092

John,

What is the advantage/s of this new MAF on an LS2 H/C/I, etc? Some detail?

tjwong

The LS7 style MAF is installed into a 4" meter body and should offer a higher flow capacity than the stock 85mm LS2 MAF unit. If the engine can use the higher flow capacity of the 4" meter body then theortically it will offer a power gain. When replacing a LS2 MAF with a LS7 card style MAF sensor a LS7 MAF table has to be installed in the calibration, also that table will have to be massaged as well because it was installed a a Vararam body which is different than the original Z06 air bridge assembly.

Neumonic2002

SLIR is supposed to be opening for test n tune in march I believe, last I heard about MAR was there was going to be another vote due to local people not wanting it to happen (if I'm reporting on the right project, Wentzville)

Neumonic2002

That is very interesting, I have driven the car around 300 miles or so. I used the ARP lube that was included with the bolts, did you use them as well with your builds (tjwong)?

marine&hisvette

Alsome thread and results... I'm curious why you used the stock head gasket instead of a .040? I'm currently doing A ls3 head swap on my ls2 and alot of other things including arp studs

Neumonic2002

Thanks!

Target was 11.4 - 11.5 for the cr, also gives me plenty of room should I decide to experiment with other cams down the road from a piston to valve clearance perspective. I am considering a 402/403 in the next year or so, I wanted these heads to be flexible for the next program as well.



John

taken19

I used ARP bolts and assembly lube with my head and cam swap. After 3-4 heat cycles I rechecked all torque settings. Got 15-20 degrees movement on a couple bolts and 6 had some movement (generally less than 10 degrees). With all you have invested in the car, it's quick and easy to check. With just the valve covers off, you can check all but the 10 inner 10mm bolts under the intake. If you get any major movement, then remove the intake and check the remaining ones.

It would suck to have to swap head gaskets all over agian...

Neumonic2002

Sean,
I appreciate you sharing your experience as well, I will take the time to do that today while I am off or at least not going to the office. What torque values did you use? I went with 30/50/75 and 20/25 on the 10mm guys.
Hope you and your family had a nice Christmas.

John

taken19

John, I used the same values you listed.

Christmas was good. I realize that my kids are spoiled! They have more toys than you can shake a stick at. They're digging into my car slush fund, lol.

Sean

Neumonic2002

Thanks for your reply Sean!

Good to hear you and your fam had a nice Christmas. Our slush fund never seems big enough for what we want to do? lol

John

tjwong

I have used the ARP bolts three times, once I had them work loose and the customer had head gasket problems. The other two came back and I performed a retorque after a weeks worth of driving. I have not had any issues with those two customers after a retorque. I have NEVER had an issue with using GM bolts. The cost for the GM bolt kits vs ARP bolts is considerably less, and yes the GM bolts can be used only once but as I mentioned they cost less than $50 vs $120 or thereabouts. So unless you plan on going into the engine several times, whats the sense of throwing out another $70, thats a steak dinner for two Now if got a forced induction engine making lots of power thats another story. Or you plan on going into the engine on other occasions as I did on my personal car then studs which is my personal preference comes into play.