Big-3 install on C6 (w/24 pix)
11-23-2011, 03:03 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Big-3 install on C6 (w/24 pix)
I am doing a total audio upgrade and am starting with THE BIG 3! Figured this would help all things to come and make the FOB work better. So I got that done today in just over 3 hours, most of which was crimping and soldering the cable ends. Photos will follow the descriptions:
Big-3 Process: Big 1) Ground (-) wire from engine block to frame. Big 2) Ground wire from battery to frame. Big 3) Power wire from alternator to battery (+).
1) Basic parts:
- Alternator to Batt Cable: 6 feet of premium red 4 gauge power (+) cable, crimp-ring on one end, other end bare into multi-post clamp. Metallic sheathing added for protection
- ANL Fuseholder (Lightning Audio) & 150 amp ANL fuse (Stinger)
- Battery Multi-Post Clamps (2), Gold-Plated (Rockford & Stinger)
- Batt to Frame & Frame to Engine Block: Black 4 gauge ground (-) cables, pre-cut, cut down, crimp ring and soldered (Pep Boys)
- Engine Block Bolt: M10x1.5x20, add Loc-tite.
Lower both windows, remove both fuel rail covers, disconnect both battery terminals and remove the battery. Ready to start ...
2) Pick a grounding spot on the block. I used this threaded hole on the front left of the engine block just under the FRC, some people use this for their catch-can. It did have a plastic loom anchor in it which I relocated just to the right there. You'll need a M10x1.5x20 bolt.
3) Add a couple of drops of Loc-tite to the bolt.
4) Bolt on the first 4 gauge ground cable (32" long, which I cut to 20" then added a crimp-ring and soldered). I did not torque this, just tightened firmly.
5) Here you see the stock battery to frame ground nut and ring (silver), the cable is just maybe 8 or 12 gauge. I decided to place a new anchor bolt that was thicker just below that. Here the self-tapping bolt hole has been drilled (I used a 3/8"-14 x 3/4" self-drilling hex bolt).
6) Scuff up the ring seating area for optimal contact, I used a Dremel tool with grinding stone attached.
7 & 8) Disconnect the stock ground ring.
9) New ground connection to frame, put bolt through rings and ratchet down, 3-way: 1-Engine block, 2-Stock ground cable, 3-New Battery to frame cable.
10) I cut off the original negative battery clamp, which leaves you with these two upper cables (a 6 gauge and 10 gauge). I added a crimp-ring, soldered and taped it. The smaller cable will go into one the new multi-post clamp's 8-gauge mounting holes. The bottom cable is the new battery to frame cable, it was a 40" cable cut to 34", then added a crimp-ring and soldered.
11) New Negative-Ground (-) multi-post installed and three ground cables attached. I also added dielectric grease to the terminal posts before installing. At this point we have installed the BIG-2 of 3 ... time for a beer - it's 5 o'clock somewhere.
12 & 13) Added expandable metallic sheathing to the 4 gauge power cable. I had 10 feet of cable, measured and cut to the 6 feet length, added a crimp-ring to one end and soldered, then taped the sheathing at the ends.
14, 15 & 16) Pull off rubber alternator boot and unbolt the stock connector. Add new cable and stock cable, tighten and recover with boot (I made a small slit you can see on #14 that allowed the boot to cover both rings).
17) Run cable under obstacles and behind engine block, avoiding the manifold and as much of the block as possible, then around and over to the battery area.
18) Layout the cable and determine where to place the inline ANL fuse (I put mine about 10" from the end so as to be able to tuck it out of the way to the left), cut the cable and strip off ends and connect to the fuseholder.
19) Cut off the positive battery clamp, but be sure to leave as much cable as possible, you'll need it (the stock wiring here is a 6 gauge and 8 gauge wire). My new terminal had two 2 gauge and one 8 gauge connector, now prep the 3 bare cable ends, insert and tighten.
20) Attach to terminal post, tighten and add the covers.
21) This shows how the power cable runs behind the left side of the engine, with the ANL fuse set off to the left side.
22 - 24) Time for a test start (WOW, it works!) ...
LASTLY re-index the windows: Roll the windows all the way down, then one by one pull up on the window switch for 5+ seconds. ALL DONE ... time for another beer
Big-3 Process: Big 1) Ground (-) wire from engine block to frame. Big 2) Ground wire from battery to frame. Big 3) Power wire from alternator to battery (+).
1) Basic parts:
- Alternator to Batt Cable: 6 feet of premium red 4 gauge power (+) cable, crimp-ring on one end, other end bare into multi-post clamp. Metallic sheathing added for protection
- ANL Fuseholder (Lightning Audio) & 150 amp ANL fuse (Stinger)
- Battery Multi-Post Clamps (2), Gold-Plated (Rockford & Stinger)
- Batt to Frame & Frame to Engine Block: Black 4 gauge ground (-) cables, pre-cut, cut down, crimp ring and soldered (Pep Boys)
- Engine Block Bolt: M10x1.5x20, add Loc-tite.
Lower both windows, remove both fuel rail covers, disconnect both battery terminals and remove the battery. Ready to start ...
2) Pick a grounding spot on the block. I used this threaded hole on the front left of the engine block just under the FRC, some people use this for their catch-can. It did have a plastic loom anchor in it which I relocated just to the right there. You'll need a M10x1.5x20 bolt.
3) Add a couple of drops of Loc-tite to the bolt.
4) Bolt on the first 4 gauge ground cable (32" long, which I cut to 20" then added a crimp-ring and soldered). I did not torque this, just tightened firmly.
5) Here you see the stock battery to frame ground nut and ring (silver), the cable is just maybe 8 or 12 gauge. I decided to place a new anchor bolt that was thicker just below that. Here the self-tapping bolt hole has been drilled (I used a 3/8"-14 x 3/4" self-drilling hex bolt).
6) Scuff up the ring seating area for optimal contact, I used a Dremel tool with grinding stone attached.
7 & 8) Disconnect the stock ground ring.
9) New ground connection to frame, put bolt through rings and ratchet down, 3-way: 1-Engine block, 2-Stock ground cable, 3-New Battery to frame cable.
10) I cut off the original negative battery clamp, which leaves you with these two upper cables (a 6 gauge and 10 gauge). I added a crimp-ring, soldered and taped it. The smaller cable will go into one the new multi-post clamp's 8-gauge mounting holes. The bottom cable is the new battery to frame cable, it was a 40" cable cut to 34", then added a crimp-ring and soldered.
11) New Negative-Ground (-) multi-post installed and three ground cables attached. I also added dielectric grease to the terminal posts before installing. At this point we have installed the BIG-2 of 3 ... time for a beer - it's 5 o'clock somewhere.
12 & 13) Added expandable metallic sheathing to the 4 gauge power cable. I had 10 feet of cable, measured and cut to the 6 feet length, added a crimp-ring to one end and soldered, then taped the sheathing at the ends.
14, 15 & 16) Pull off rubber alternator boot and unbolt the stock connector. Add new cable and stock cable, tighten and recover with boot (I made a small slit you can see on #14 that allowed the boot to cover both rings).
17) Run cable under obstacles and behind engine block, avoiding the manifold and as much of the block as possible, then around and over to the battery area.
18) Layout the cable and determine where to place the inline ANL fuse (I put mine about 10" from the end so as to be able to tuck it out of the way to the left), cut the cable and strip off ends and connect to the fuseholder.
19) Cut off the positive battery clamp, but be sure to leave as much cable as possible, you'll need it (the stock wiring here is a 6 gauge and 8 gauge wire). My new terminal had two 2 gauge and one 8 gauge connector, now prep the 3 bare cable ends, insert and tighten.
20) Attach to terminal post, tighten and add the covers.
21) This shows how the power cable runs behind the left side of the engine, with the ANL fuse set off to the left side.
22 - 24) Time for a test start (WOW, it works!) ...
LASTLY re-index the windows: Roll the windows all the way down, then one by one pull up on the window switch for 5+ seconds. ALL DONE ... time for another beer
Last edited by Thrash; 11-27-2011 at 01:25 PM.
11-23-2011, 05:23 PM
#3
Drifting
Great write up. I did this a few years back and saw a improvement in what the gauges showed.
My build: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...extreme-4.html
My build: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...extreme-4.html
11-23-2011, 06:36 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
11-23-2011, 10:54 PM
#6
Former Vendor
darnit, Thrash. You are trying to take my best sounding ZHZ ... Oh well I still have the best interior zhz 
11-24-2011, 06:17 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It was a mixed-bag at a local sound shop, I would have preferred a matched set, but both were gold and I did not want to web-order. I wanted a screw-post for the Neg cable rings and bare-end insert holes for the Pos, so got the Stinger-SPT83501 (Pos.) and Rockford-RP8091 (Neg.). The stinger was a tight fit & had to pry it open a good bit.
Sure that would work fine, but you add a "step" with that link, though not as bad as going through the starter.
Sure that would work fine, but you add a "step" with that link, though not as bad as going through the starter.
Last edited by Thrash; 11-24-2011 at 06:25 PM.
11-24-2011, 06:22 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Great write up. I did this a few years back and saw a improvement in what the gauges showed.
My build: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...extreme-4.html
My build: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...extreme-4.html
11-24-2011, 07:53 PM
#12
Former Vendor
12-31-2011, 01:13 AM
#14
Cruising
Member Since: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Great writeup and gorgeous pics. On my C6, I added a custom box behind the seats with 2-12in subs, giant Fosgate amp with a 1 farad capacitor. Thinking of seeing if there is an upgraded alternator I can get to help support the electrical system. When I crank it up loud everything dims a bit.
What is the point of the Big 3 upgrade?
What is the point of the Big 3 upgrade?
12-31-2011, 01:25 AM
#15
Le Mans Master
Great writeup and gorgeous pics. On my C6, I added a custom box behind the seats with 2-12in subs, giant Fosgate amp with a 1 farad capacitor. Thinking of seeing if there is an upgraded alternator I can get to help support the electrical system. When I crank it up loud everything dims a bit.
What is the point of the Big 3 upgrade?
What is the point of the Big 3 upgrade?
12-31-2011, 01:27 AM
#16
Cruising
Member Since: Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Many thanks D. I read a bit more into the topic and found this one as well
http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Big-3-...ade&id=1411196
http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Big-3-...ade&id=1411196
06-20-2012, 01:02 AM
#18
Supporting Vendor
Great info! 
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Don't forget to check out our products at www.saccitycorvette.com
If you like our products, tell others! If not, tell us!
07-06-2012, 04:20 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Install Note:
Eight months later, I have not had any FOB issues since the install, no more ghost alarms going off, the lights do not dim to bass beats at night, not a single starter problem and I even jumped my Sierra p/u last week!
