Squeaking & Wobbling Harmonic Balancer
05-08-2011, 01:01 PM
#21
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Goodyear gatorback belts "temporary fix" ?
So I went ahead and decided to swap out my OEM belts with Gatorbacks before I "BITE THE BULLET" and take the car into the dealership for an out-of-warranty Harmonic Balancer replacement.
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
05-08-2011, 01:09 PM
#22
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So I went ahead and decided to swap out my OEM belts with Gatorbacks before I "BITE THE BULLET" and take the car into the dealership for an out-of-warranty Harmonic Balancer replacement.
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
In my opinion.....I think the chirping and wobbling will be back soon. As I understand the HB design, the new belt may mask the symptons for a while but it will not cure the problem.
Andy
05-08-2011, 02:15 PM
#23
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I agree 100% That was the entire point of my post. Once the "chirping" starts, it's too late, your HB is going to fail sooner than later.
05-08-2011, 05:10 PM
#24
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It will be back.
05-08-2011, 07:19 PM
#25
The stealership claimed to replace mine (under their 60 day sale warr.)and the tensioner stoped moving but the pully still moves in and out. I cant tell if the belt is moving in and out with the pully. Ive been to other dealers and they say its ok but im still worried. I think Ill just go aftermarket before the blower.
ps. I went to the track on Friday and made 9 passes with no problems plus the dyno tunes and a$$ hatting around town.
ps. I went to the track on Friday and made 9 passes with no problems plus the dyno tunes and a$$ hatting around town.
05-10-2011, 01:58 PM
#26
I feel your pain. It was a long & hard fight for me to get my HB replaced, but I finally did and it runs perfectly now.
Here's what it sounded like at idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HmMAyPdyDs
Here's what it looked like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRboo9a0RnY
Here's what it sounded like at idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HmMAyPdyDs
Here's what it looked like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRboo9a0RnY
05-10-2011, 02:49 PM
#27
Melting Slicks
My advice if your harmonic balancer needs replacement out of warranty, do not take it to a dealer.
The dealer charges much higher labor costs than most repair shops and generally the techs are less qualified. They will also charge you full list price for parts.
There are several good Corvette shops around the country with many of them participating in the forum.
If you are a good do it your self person, this is also a good opportunity to change the camshaft.
The dealer charges much higher labor costs than most repair shops and generally the techs are less qualified. They will also charge you full list price for parts.
There are several good Corvette shops around the country with many of them participating in the forum.
If you are a good do it your self person, this is also a good opportunity to change the camshaft.
05-20-2011, 12:27 PM
#28
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Hmmm ! Part number change ?
I did a little research on the OEM "CRANKSHAFT / CAMSHAFT / HARMONIC BALANCER" replacement part and found that the original OEM part number listed for the 2005, 2006, 2007 C6 on ACDELCO.COM OEM parts site is listed as #12576652, BALANCER,CR/SHF. When you click on "Vehicle List" the part is defined as (PART#12576652, MANFACTURER: ACDELCO US, PART TYPE: HARMONIC BALANCER, TOTAL NUMBER OF APPLICATIONS: 610
But when I checked part #125776652 on GMPARTSTSDIRECT.COM their site states that the part number has been replaced / superseded by a new part #12634105 ENGINE CRANKSHAFT, CAMSHAFT BALANCER.
Then when I cross referenced part #12634105 back to ACDELCO.COM it lists that number as a BALANCER, ASM-CR/SHF but does not have a radio button for "Vehicle List".
My question is, being the conspiracy theorist I am, did GM redesign the original part due to the obvious widespread failures of the part and release a new part number that is defined by the ASM acronym preceding CR/SHF ? And WHY DOES AC/DELCO LIST THE PART AS A "HARMONIC BALANCER" WHEN SOME POSTERS HAVE CLAIMED THAT GM HAS DENIED THEIR WARRANTY CLAIMS STATING THE PART IS A CRANKSHAFT BALANCER, NOT A HARMONIC BALANCER ?
What does the acronym ASM mean in the GM parts world ?
But when I checked part #125776652 on GMPARTSTSDIRECT.COM their site states that the part number has been replaced / superseded by a new part #12634105 ENGINE CRANKSHAFT, CAMSHAFT BALANCER.
Then when I cross referenced part #12634105 back to ACDELCO.COM it lists that number as a BALANCER, ASM-CR/SHF but does not have a radio button for "Vehicle List".
My question is, being the conspiracy theorist I am, did GM redesign the original part due to the obvious widespread failures of the part and release a new part number that is defined by the ASM acronym preceding CR/SHF ? And WHY DOES AC/DELCO LIST THE PART AS A "HARMONIC BALANCER" WHEN SOME POSTERS HAVE CLAIMED THAT GM HAS DENIED THEIR WARRANTY CLAIMS STATING THE PART IS A CRANKSHAFT BALANCER, NOT A HARMONIC BALANCER ?
What does the acronym ASM mean in the GM parts world ?
Last edited by HDDP; 05-20-2011 at 12:35 PM. Reason: grammer & spelling
05-20-2011, 06:00 PM
#29
Maby American Society of Mammalogists?
Id rather pay for a known good one and do it myself than have a dealership do another garbage install with an inferior part.
the solution = http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=C361
Id rather pay for a known good one and do it myself than have a dealership do another garbage install with an inferior part.
the solution = http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=C361
05-21-2011, 10:56 AM
#30
Melting Slicks
Got the same phukkin issue here with my new 2010 C6 base that has less than 1K miles on it. I'm going in on 05/23/2011 for warranty service (for the second time). They just don't build them like they did before. I guess they (GM) feel complacent now that they know the tax payers are going to bail them out whenever things get tight.
Wish I never bought this GM junk! Everyone I know warned me not to buy this car. Live and Learn!
Wish I never bought this GM junk! Everyone I know warned me not to buy this car. Live and Learn!
05-21-2011, 12:31 PM
#31
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Good riddance!
05-21-2011, 12:39 PM
#32
Never hurts to try. Mine was just out of the warranty time line, I wasn't the original owner, and my car did not fall within the affected VIN range, and the service manager goodwilled the repair. Didn't cost me a dime. They even paid for a rental Silverado because the part took a week to arrive. I didn't even have to strong arm or complain.
05-21-2011, 06:55 PM
#33
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Where 2 get gator belts???
So I went ahead and decided to swap out my OEM belts with Gatorbacks before I "BITE THE BULLET" and take the car into the dealership for an out-of-warranty Harmonic Balancer replacement.
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
05-21-2011, 07:03 PM
#34
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My advice if your harmonic balancer needs replacement out of warranty, do not take it to a dealer.
The dealer charges much higher labor costs than most repair shops and generally the techs are less qualified. They will also charge you full list price for parts.
There are several good Corvette shops around the country with many of them participating in the forum.
If you are a good do it your self person, this is also a good opportunity to change the camshaft.
The dealer charges much higher labor costs than most repair shops and generally the techs are less qualified. They will also charge you full list price for parts.
There are several good Corvette shops around the country with many of them participating in the forum.
If you are a good do it your self person, this is also a good opportunity to change the camshaft.
05-21-2011, 10:23 PM
#35
Melting Slicks
SweetBlueZ's vids are a perfect example of my issue, with my new car. I recorded mine also (iphone) so I can play it for the stealership on Monday, 23rd. I asked the stealership about filing a Lemon-Law claim with GM.....
We'll see how it goes............
We'll see how it goes............
05-21-2011, 10:31 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
I have the chirping 07 vette too. Im looking for gatorback belts. parts stores here only sell dayco and gates. Oh yea in addition to chirping it keeps throwing the AC belt. Harm Bal was replaced Aug 20th 2010 and it is already doing this again. Where are the belts? And is 4040410 and or 4pk1040 the right part number?
Here's a link: http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...w=&range_high=
You may need to refine your search...........
05-21-2011, 10:37 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Dude, you're so easily manipulated (as your failed response signifies). I bet you have anger issues. I was just blowing steam, based on the issue at hand..........
Wouldn't you be angered for spending $50K on a chirping car that's been in the shop twice in less than four months?
Full Disclosure! This is my third Vette...........
Wouldn't you be angered for spending $50K on a chirping car that's been in the shop twice in less than four months?Full Disclosure! This is my third Vette...........
Last edited by Speedforhire; 05-21-2011 at 10:39 PM.
.........sorry, i'll have to disagree on that.........
05-22-2011, 05:13 PM
#39
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Where are the Gatorbacks?
So I went ahead and decided to swap out my OEM belts with Gatorbacks before I "BITE THE BULLET" and take the car into the dealership for an out-of-warranty Harmonic Balancer replacement.
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
As per the Tech Manual, one of the diagnostic procedures is to remove the belts and run the engine for 30-40 seconds to see if the "chirping" goes away. I did, and it did, and the balancer wobble increased without any belt tension on it.
Installed the GY Gatorbacks, which are beefy belts compared to the OEM and were a much snugger fit (because they're new & built better) than the OEM. After replacement, I started the car and immediately noticed a 50-70% reduction in the "wobble". Also, the chirping was gone !
Just thinking out loud !!! I'm wondering if the cause of the rubber separating from the balancer and ultimately failing, is activated / promoted by loose fitting belts which allows the balancer / rubber joint to move about until it gets to the point of "failing" and causing the inevitable "chirping" that causes us all to finally notice the "wobble".
Wondering if I had replaced the OEM belts 10,000 miles ago @ 22,000 miles, if it would have prevented the "wobble" altogether ? Perhaps this is a typical "OUNCE OF PREVENTION" scenario !!!
06-07-2011, 06:10 PM
#40
AGAIN I had the stealership replace mine (different stealership) and it is WORSE!! not to mention the TTY bolt I marked the day before is back in it. Needless to say the car is going back. Can you say Recall! I told them to spin the "new" one before installing it. I will not accept anything less than dead true!